does anybody remember this chassis builder?

It's all good I suppose. You have been given clear direction on what you need to do to get it right.

The MII front ends are all very similar in execution so we are not talking rocket science here.

You may get to talk to the builder of your ch***is and he may well tell you something very similar to what has been presented here.

As far as cutting it all out and going with a beam axle and buggy spring ? Why in hell would you do that when the MII was the direction of choice to begin with.

There are plenty of MII haters around but the bottom line is that they work really well and in some ways are a pretty large improvement over the beam axle.

Again good luck.

 

Because on any '32, both full fendered and fenderless, they look like ****.

MII's are fine on a car that has enough bodywork to completely hide it.

 

Just for a looksee try Paul Whartons' Welders' Series, I believe he is a member here too. Anyway, they make excellant kits for fab shops and that may well be one of his'.

 

I won't argue that one with you.
Even now I'm not totally sure we are talking about a 32 frame here.

I can't tell completely from the pictires.

The OP never said it was a 32 frame and the reference ad he used shows a deuce frame and mentions them.

SAC made other frames too also mentioned in the ad.

If it's a deuce frame then yes the front suspension shown in the ad would be more appropriate.

The MII is best on the fatter cars 35-40 etc.

Based on the OPs posts on other threads I believe we are actually talking about a 35-40 Ford frame here. After a second look at his pictures I am sure that is the case.

If so the MII is perfect.

 

If you do not want to modify what you have I would contact Kugel Componets as both Don and Roy built a lot of frames that were designed/setup for Kugels front suspensions. Good luck

 

Just a little more info about S.A.C. ~ Roy was an Engineer and that was his biggest problem in business from my point of view - he was not an entrepreneur, he was an engineer. He didn't have a keen business sense. I had him do a few frames for my shop and they were always over promised and late to delivery, sometimes with the wrong parts.
Donnie McNeil was the first owner, and he and Dave Green were a lot of fun to deal with. Donnie got a little behind in his taxes if I remember right and sold the business to a guy named Durrell, who didn't keep it very long and sold it to Roy. Donnie continued to work for both of them for a number of years. Eventually he left and started Flatout Engineering in the same complex, specializing in kits to put Corvette suspension in early trucks and now cars. Great stuff.
S.A C. had a great reputation and did frames for Boyd, Chip and many other top builders with them being featured under many AMBR winning cars.
I tried to buy S.A.C. from Roy, but he couldn't come up with an inventory value no matter how hard I pushed. Eventually he just closed. Jimmy White from Circle City Hot Rods ended up with most of his frame fixtures and some of the inventory, so he might be able to help.
By coincidence, I saw Donnie last night.

 

Looking at those pics some more I think you are right.

Its probably a later frame.

No, not perfect...

But it will do the job.

 

sorry about not saying what it's going under. 40 ford coupe. what about the two gussets per side? does this sound in keeping with what we know now? that was some good info from hotroddon. I need to run right now, but i'm looking forward to getting back to this. thanks all.

 

Google Mustang II failure. I'm sure you'll find my name...

Cosmo

 

agreed. on a 32, a mustang 2 is just out there to much. I have a 30 model a coupe full fendered that has a drop axle. on the 40 i'm building, I want to try the mustang 2.i'v never played with one, and this car seemed like a good one to try it on. I almost put a jag under the back, but change my mind when they told me it would cost another 600.00 to set up the ch***is for it. the car is set up for a 302 roller/ single 4 barrel, aod, 8" posi. although the motor mounts look like sbc to me. I hope i'm not surprised when I pull it down from the rafters and start to fit things.

 

my reason for wanting to contact roy (the builder) is not for permission to alter, but to check for old inventory of arms that were built buy him or someone else, to his spec, and to see if he still had any front sway bars left from when he closed up. they looked like they mounted in a unique way. the set of arms I bought after his closing did not fit even though the seller said they would fit any after market crossmember. this is what leads me to think the way I am, not willing to alter things quite yet. also, I to wouldn't have a problem cutting up a 2013 Cadillac. I don't know if well crafted fits this one. maybe well molded?

 

Roy had a lot of parts inventory left that he has been selling out of a storage place. Contact Jimmy White at Circle City Hot Rods to find out if he has any and for Roy's contact info.

 

well, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted on this topic and now I have some good news.
I was able to talk to Don McNeil at flat out engineering as "firemangordy" said. don started SAC in the 70's at was very nice on the phone and re***ured me that cutting was not a good thing to do at this point. also that roy davenport (last owner of SAC) did sometimes make his own control arms as well as buying out.
he told me he was going to try and reconnect with roy and then get back to me to tell what my options are. don has also offered to help me get through this right.

thanks to all who help getting me this info, kurt.

 

Update us on what the final outcome is if you can.

 

well I think I know what to do now! I've talked to roy davenport,(the builder) some big builders, kugel, ch***is eng, heidts, but most importantly I had a nice conversation with the hamb's very own el-polako!
he verified some basic mustang II questions I needed answered. what it came down to is that by cutting only from the rear of the pivot tube I would have centering problems, and the lower ball joints would be 5/8" to the rear of the cross member's centerline. this is what I ment when I said "I need to know what i'm shooting for"

one of heidts engineers did get back to me also verifying the same thing. so it looks like I need to add 5/8" to the front, then come up with a 7" overall length, and cut it there. now just visualizing this, it looks like the rack unit "boots" will be in the way of the "a" arms front bolt. it never ends. for now I think I have a plan!

 

update.