This is the push rod to a 1953 Chevy Club Coupe that connects the pitman arm to the rest of the Steering. There is alot of slop especially at the front of the rod. I would like to replace it or have it rebuilt but am not sure who sells these. I have already adjusted the large front screw in as far as possible. This helped but it is still very diffiulct to drive this car on the freeway. Any advise would be apreciated. thanks!
The old style tie-rod ends with the adjuster screws can be rebuilt pretty easily at home--back off the same screw at each end til you can remove the rod and then just remove said screw and lay out the innards in order. Main wearing parts in there are two cups that enclose the ball on the bell crank. I'm sure some resto sells a kit with all the bits that live in there, and you can probably still getem from parts stores if you can find a clerk old enough to read the catalogs. The balls that the rod attaches to are likely worn, too...are they removeable?
NAPA numbers... Drag Link Repair Kit Click on image to see enlarged view Item#: RPC25318 Price: $104.00 tax and shipping not included Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime. Usually ships within 3-5 days. Add To Cart Return to Previous Page New Search Note: There is no Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) available for this Product
They do not look removeable. Each of these balls have no bolt or fastening nut on the back sides of their respective arms. I believe they are one piece. The cotter pin only allow me to make half-turn adjustments. I was able to adjust the play out earlier but by the time I backed the end screw out enough to re-insert the pin, the slop returned. Can I simply drill a new hole for the pin so that I don't have to back the screw out? Does anyone know where I might find the internals to rebuild this? Thanks Bruce!
This looks exactly right! I could not find any reference that indicates that it will fit my 53 chevy. Are these universal?
technically, the balls ARE replaceable, but it would take special tools to do, beyond the regular do it yourselfer. i've seen replacement balls, so that's how i know they're replaceable. the ones i've seen were NOS, at a swapmeet or ebay or something, not a vendor. as for the drag link repair kit, others to check are national chevy association, chevs of the 40's, and kanter.
Sounds like the springs are broken inside (pretty common). They are included in the repair kit. The springs allow you to back off the screw for the cotter pin to fit and still have a spring loaded snug fit on the ball.
The steering boxes on these cars are pretty notorious to get sloppy. Are you sure the slop's not in the box? You can adjust a little bit of it at the box if that's what's causing it. When I first put my 52 on the road, I tightened the drag link as good as possible, and it felt pretty snug against the ball on he pitman and the centersteering linkage arm (or whatever you call that thing that mounts to the middle of the crossmember). But I had more than 1/4 turn play at the steering wheel.
Thanks everyone. This is very helpful. I am almost certain that the springs are bad and so I've already ordered my rebuild kit. They'll be here tomorrow.
How did you tighten the steering box, I always heard it was a temporary fix,and cause even more wear on the gears in the box? How did it work after the adjustment?
I beleive there are three adjustments on the box. I know the earlier (39-48) boxes have three.I would check a shop manual to find out for sure. As far as being a temporary fix,and causing more wear,the box already has 50 years+ of wear I dont think you will have to worry about any additional wear in your lifetime.
Um... I installed a MII! I just kinda lived with the slop until I put the MII in... just kinda learned how to drive it is all. I was planning to send mine in as a core to the Filling Station to have them rebuild mine, but that would've cost as much as I had in my MII (most of it was free). And then I would still have that goofy center-point steering. As for tightening it, there are some external adjuster screws/bolts, but I never got into it to learn what exactly to do... (though I'm sure there are others here who have). I've also heard it's a temporary fix... but "temporary" could mean it will only last another 100,000 miles. My car had about 90,000 miles on it when I got it as a complete factory original stocker, and the box was pretty sloppy. I'm sure it would depend on what kinds of roads the car has been driven on as well. Seems I heard the key was to not get it too tight (apparently a common mistake?) or that's what would wear things out faster.
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