Hot Rods Does anyone know of a Gen 1 early Hemi machine shop in the Houston area?

I've made the decision to put a 354 Chrysler Hemi into my '30 Model A coupe. I'll need to get the block, heads, crank and rods machined, and I would like to have the rotating ***embly ***embled into a short block. I'm told by some that the typical machine/engine shop won't be familiar with the quirls of the early Hemi, and that I need to take it to a shop that has done these engines before. I'm in a suburb of Houston, TX. Are any of you aware of a machine/engine shop in this area that has any experience with these engines? Thanks, any and all recommendations are greatly appreciated.

 

I'd call Bruce's rod shop in Spring and ask who they recommend. +12813765932

 

Check out Houston Engine and Balancing Service. They’ve been doing machine work and building race engines for decades. I’m sure they’ve built early hemis in the past but I don’t know if they’ve got anyone still there who has done it. Give them a call and see.

 

I don't understand why any good machine shop wouldn't machine a hemi....When you bore any engine most good shops use the mains for setup on any engines and a valve job is really no difference other than their location...

 

^^^^^ ,

I think he’s more worried about the ***embly ?,,,,maybe ?

You’re right,,,,,,the parts basically machine the same ,,,,,not much difference on that .

Not much difference in ***embly,,,,,,,I think the block oil byp*** is really the only worry .
And it’s not really any problem,,,,,just needs to be correct .

Tommy

 

Honestly, I'm not sure what concerns, if any, exist. I've always thought that each engine has it's own "quirks" that the machinist/builder should be aware of. I'm very familiar with Ford FE's, and I know there's a few things that not everyone is familiar with, and I thought that the early Hemi's likely had theirs as well. I've tried to do a rapid crash course on them, and I see a few things that are early Hemi specific, like the oil byp*** that's already been mentioned, the bolts almost all hit water and must be sealed, valve stem bosses must be milled so the retainers don't hit the boss if using a cam over a certain lift amount, valve spring pockets hit water (perhaps) if machined bigger over a certain amount, etc. Hopefully, there's not much more than that, and any quality shop can handle it. Now if I can figure out where to find a used dual quad intake for a 331/354, preferrably aluminum, that woud be great.

 

used to deal with conrad racing engines, but that was 39 years ago.

 

Yeah, this place is true old school (i guess, unless its under new ownership) and has been around forever. Do your research though, they may still have the name but maybe not the expertise or knowledge that they used to have.

 

Thought of a couple more:
Motor Reco (reconditioning) in downtown Houston. They've done it all since before i knew what a car was--again, do your research.
Also, Compe***ion Sales has contacts all over the racing community, they probably can give you some leads.

 

Doug520 ,

You are right,,,they have a few things to look out for,,,,,,but ,,the main one is the oil byp*** valve .
If this shop is familiar with about any Small block Mopar,,,,,,most of the oiling system and core plugs are almost the same .
There is a core plug at the end of the oil system that should be removed for cleaning,,,,,,and absolutely,, not be forgotten to replace at ***embly!

And yes,,,,,,many bolts are into water,,,,but still ,,,no hill for a climber !

Yes,,,,the heads have a couple of areas to watch out for ,,,,,the valve spring seats are an item of interest,,,,water is right near the edge under them .
But,,,,unless you are building a racing engine,,,,,the seat OD is fine,,,,Mopar used a fairly large diameter spring as it was .
Excellent castings,,,,,,flow well stock,,,and quality iron .

The main thing is compression,,,,get it up there,,,and it will scream .

It’s not black magic,,,,,, (although a true Mopar engine builder can make black magic ! )
They are a different animal,,,,,but Mopars are excellent engines,,,,,,it just needs to be built by someone that will look at all the details .

Find a good engine shop,,,,,,with good people,,,,,and it will work fine .

Tommy

 

If a shop is well versed in the A/LA engines then an EarlyHemi should not be difficult.
There are resources available if questions arise.
Yes, definitely go to forged pistons and 10:1 c/r. Forgings will only add about 7-8% to the average build cost.

 

Has Anyone used G & G Performance Engines before?

 

Agree, thats what I did with the pistons. I got mine through Gary. Can’t remember the brand. Early ASAP in that it can take several months to get them. I also have a source for other parts. Main bearings seem to be hard to get. Shoot me a message and I’ll share the info.