Does the HAMB really need another 392 Hemi swap thread?

Dog_Patch:
I might be able to get ahold of a set of ***embled 555's to cc them
For you,but if that falls through you should get ahold of Mitch Rish on here...He is a hell of a good guy,and he is an encyclopedia of early Hemi knowledge.

Scott


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Thanks man! Will do.

 

Here I am checking the runout to see if the bellhousing is ****ed. The spec in the clutch paper work says .003" I came up with .005" . Probably should try and fix this. For now I am gonna run it. See what happens.



I know the project is up and running no problems, BUT be careful with using a dial indicator this way. Gravity has an effect on it. To test you can take a piece of flat plate big enough to fit your base and to set a zero. Now flip it upside down and check the reading. Soooo in other words, you might have been in tolerance and didn't know it

Sorry for being a PITA, but just spreading some info. Other than that, *****in ride.

 

The difference between .003 and.005 won't amount to worry about. But also check the face of the bell where the trans bolts too.

 

It was enough for the OP to question it. Not trying to start anything, just sharing some knowledge.

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Thanks for the advice on gravity. I never thought of that but it makes sense.
Good point on the face of the bell housing also. A lot of guys don't even check these things they must be lucky. I did have to install the offset bellhousing pins and adjust the run out, the adjustment was maxed out at .005 . So that proves they are not perfect from the factory. (That's ***uming a modern QuickTime bellhousing with modern tooling would be near perfect).

 

Yea, theres no telling how many combos are put together without checking flatness or runout.

On the dial indicator situation, truthfully I've only seen about .002 total effect on the reading.

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Dog Patch,
Great thread!

I love B***' and your engine mounts but have 2 questions:
-How high do they position the engine? How many inches is the oilpan flange above the frame rails?
-Does your driveshaft point down from the ****** to the rearend?

Thanks much,
Gary

 

It's been a while now since you're running this setup.
What did you end up using for power valves and jets in your 6x2?

Thanks, and great looking engine (and coupe) you got there!

 

Gary - the pan is about 3" below the frame rail and about 6-8" from the pavement. The flange is about 1" above the rail. I think the target was to get the front pulley up off the cross member. With all that weight the plan was to keep it low. Its set for 3 degrees down on the crank center line. The rear is 3 degrees up. I put an angle finder on the drive shaft just now. Its showing 3 degrees going up towards the back. Sounds odd but I drew a picture and it looks right.

Martin - the 3.5 PVs are right on the money. The outers are all at 50 and the cneters are 60. The mag was fouling plugs in traffic. Actually went back to electronic last summer. It was fine unless you got stuck in a long line at a car show or downtown traffic. The electronic will idle all day. Virginia isn't that far from Steel In Motion. You guys should come down. Its a blast!