Features Doing Falcons Right

Your girls wagon is looking good. Like I said before I love them TRU's? Hows the spacing on the rear? Since she'll be driving the stance is just right at least for her. I'm sure she'll be happy to finally drive it

BTW, I'll look out for some wagon washboards out here in socal.

 

Suprisingly, the spacing on the back is A OK! I figured changing rear tires would be a nightmare with things so close. That's why I did a de-arch on the rear springs rather than a block to drop it, so it would have a more natural droop possistion to help get the rear tires on and off. The front is what is making my life tough. I went with one of Scarebird's disc brake kits on the front, so caliper clearence is an issue. Had I stuck with the drums I could have "thinned" the inner spacer that TRUs come with to pull them in a bit. Just didn't figure that was a good idea with a female driver as the primary user. I plan on buying a pair of Hankook 175/70-14" for the front as they are almost an inch shorter and a bit narrower, too. I probably will still end up narrowing the control arms a touch though.

 

The thin whites on the Tru Spokes are fine, but Please don't do that with slots - that look just doesn't work IMHO.
And Spinners? Really? They are just FAKE Knock Offs, and I don't like any of the fake junk personally

 

Don, I hear ya. The more I have thought about it I have decided to not to. Matter of fact, I think I might end up getting rid of the slots altogether. They were for the Ranchero in the back ground of the second picture. This wagon is the first time I have EVER done anything "customy" in my life, (it will end up with a mild flakey/lacey paint job just 'cause the that's what SHE wants) and I was trying to look to something I thought might have existed at one time with my other thread. Pretty sure i'm gonna just do black prime on the Ranch' and maybe some white or school bus yellow 14" steels and blackwalls. Boring, but at least I'll be able to drop that as low as I want to!

 

The wagon sit real nice!! The true spokes look great on her! I just got a 62 ranchero with a blown head gasket now I need to find a 200ci for her.. I want to put a 5 speed in it but dont have the money to have a s10 case done so I will have to remove the floor brace should this be a concern???

 

Ya know, if you look back through this thread I think I posted some pictures of the trans adaptation I did for my Ranchero. Mine came with a fresh 170 and JOHNEVANS and I made an adaptor to mount a Borg Warner T50. It's shifter will come out of the pan in just about the same location as the mustang T-5 will, which means it will be partially into the same crossmember you are talking about. My plan is to not remove the cross member, but to notch it as much as I have to for clearance around the trans, then on the top side make a brace from 1/8" flat stock that conforms to the trans tunnel and plug weld it all along the crossmember itself from the top. I will make this so it forms a full 360 degree circle around the shifter hole and puts most of the lost strength back into the crossmember. Make any sense? The advantage for me will be that my trans is a bit smaller than the T-5, so I should get away with less material trimmed.
The other way to look at this one is this; if you find a post '66 200 with it's clutch and bellhousing, you can buy an inexpensive Ford to Chevy pattern adaptor and go directly to an S10 trans. Might be a bit easier to do all the way around and having the shifter forward of the seat would be a very nice thing. Look into S10gear ratios, because some of the Four cylinder ratios might be an advantage with the Falcon swap.

 

Yeah I like the final drive of the s10 I got a quote for $950 for everything which was s10 housing mustang input and gears except for fifth gear would be a taller s10 unit... But I dont have that kind of cash right now

 

Dude, top whack high dollar price in any u-pullit in Phoenix is about 250.00 for an S10 trans! With a 200 inch six, don't let anybody tell you that you have to have a "world class" type unit or anything but just plain pipe racks... I'd do a bit of wrecking yard hopping and see whats out there. My T50 cost exactly 50.00, the adaptor cost 30.00 for the chunk of aluminum, and about 60.00 to have John cut it up to our specs. From there it was a 40.00 vega clutch disc and about 12.00 for a pilot bushing.

 

For all of the guys on here with granada spindles i need some tie rod help what did you use the falcon tierod is to small for the granada spindle the the threads are to big on the granada tierod what should i do?????

 

There is an adaptor from I believe mustangparts.com that aadapts the Falcon tie rod to the granada spindles. If I have that company wrong I'm hoping some corrects me.

 

Mustangsteve.com has what you are looking for.

 

Amazing thread. I cant wait to get my new toy home so I can start on it.
First I will just static drop it and save for the drop spindles and bags.
I will be doing most the work myself as I have no time or money but time is easier to find.

 

Thanks hoop! I knew it was Mustang something...

 

Here's my slightly O/T '67 Futura Wagon as it sits today... mostly original except for the drop in the front, and definitely a work in progress.

 

Finally got the falcon here, have a good list of "to dos" but I am pleased with it. Hit it with the buffer and some 3000 to see how it cleans up.



And the interior (one of the main reasons I bought it. Still need to clean it up, I assume its original as the car sat in a garage since 87, I completely believe it too since I shipped it here from NJ and its amazingly solid.



Is there any way of visually telling if its the original interior or not? Not a big deal but would be pretty cool if it is.

 

Are the seams Stitched in the seats or heat seamed? It looks to me that the seats have been redone, but the door panels are genuine.

 

Love that wagon. The paint looks like it came back nicely.

 

Seems are stitched.
So that equals redone?
Thanks.
Falconizer I am completely impressed with your build. I will be stealing a few ideas, if I could afford it I would steal 99% of them.
Thanks.

 

I'm pretty sure it does. I'm not 100%, but I think by that time Ford was doing most of it's vinyl stuff in a heat press operation. I also believe the red and white colors are reversed on your seats as well. Ford was big on red outers with white inserts in black cars i the early sixties. Super neat wagon though! I wish ours was that clean.

 

Thanks. Steal em all if you want . None are expensive, 45 cents per pound scrap metal. The Aussie motors are cheap as well. It's all labor so you gotta enjoy working hard.
I'm just jealous and wish I could drive mine...

 

Ya, no kidding! Mine could be drivable with a couple of strong days of work, but customer stuff ALWAYS comes first...

 

I cant drive yet either.

Engine is seized but I am picking up an engine tomorrow so I can at least move it out of the garage before my wife gets back from Japan. Then when I sell my bus I can put the wagon on the other side of the car hole.

EDIT
For future reference what is the best way of obtaining an OHC crossflow?

EDIT again
I did a google search for red white interior ad they all seem to be the same pattern wise still not sure about the seems which I assume you are correct about.

 

Cage that wagon is sweet. would toatally love to have one super score!

Need Louvers, what size are the Trus? and do you know what back spacing, or can you measure it for me? I was gonna get a set of 14x6, but the back spacing meant the would have stuck out too much unless i was runnin a super stretched tire like a 5.20. Wonder if they came in diffrent backspacing as my euro Ford is same exact size as the Falcon so i was rather sure they would have worked, infact im pretty bummed about it.

As for the spinners...really? They are awesome man, how many Trus did you see that had spinners and didnt look good? Or on Cragars/Supremes etc..., or even on chrome wheels, y'kno, the old lug covers w/ the center rised spinner. No brainer for me, spinners rule.
And i dont see them as a fake knock off (this sounds weird LOL), they just a buff accessory, like a beauty ring or bullet covers.

 

Hey Bonez,

The Tru-spokes on Judy's car are 14x6 with the 4on41/2" pattern. The back space is right at about 3", but I'll double check that this week yet and update. the Rear tires are 185/80 - 14s, and this week I just purchased some 175/70 - 14s for the front and have yet to have them mounted. The smaller tire up front should help quite a bit with fender clearence issues that I'm having. If I didn't have the car set so low, (well, high for me!) the Trus wouldn't be a problem.

 

Cage, PM me and I can get you in touch with who you need if you want an OHC Aussie inline. There is a container coming this way soon-ish, so I wouldn't take too much time. You can have AC, power steering and all the accessories figured out plus overdrive.
As close as yours is though, I would get it running and drive it. My next "big project" is just getting the thing back in the garage to start working on it again...

 

Thanks, yeah thats my plan but later on down the road I would like to look into your driveline setup.
Got a 170 today. Dude swapped in a 302 so I got it and the engine wiring harnesses (mine fried) for a great deal.
Need to paint the valve cover ford red.

 

My 1965 Falcon at Bakersfield last April.

 

Sound just like the ones i was gonna buy...and the 185s would have rubbed the front too, so maybe after all the two cars have very similar suspension to arches measures.And i have no fitting problems in the rear too.
As for the height...sure a little higher would help, but Trus on skinnies MUST go on a slammed ride

Thanx for the reply.

 

A few more from bowling green

 

After much trouble I got the seized engine out and the other engine in. I also got all the original wires from another falcon I only had to repair 2 wires on the new one, but used wire from the old one so all the factory colors are there still.
I have been working on it here and there. I also made some lowering blocks for the rear that are 3" (maybe too much) and hit the front with a little heat. Thinking of getting another set of springs and cutting them down instead. Gonna narrow and box the lower control arm and relocate the stabilizer bar underneath and pie cut the upper control arm to keep a better BJ angle. Still want to ad airbags as soon as I can afford it.




Today I was putting on the water pump and at 13 lbs of torque the top bolt broke.
I decided to drill it out and retap it, easy right? HAHA fuc no. Had to pull the grill and to do that I had to pull the bumper.
I decided to fix another problem while I was at it, the radiator is too close if mounted correctly. The P.O. had the radiator mounted behind the radiator support, in order to do this he bent 2 tabs back and then shoved it behind and folded them back. So I cut the mounts off and made my own.



So it was a long day but I got a lot done.