Features Doing Falcons Right

Here are some pics of my falcon project , getting ready to blast it apart this winter and paint the rails and underside.

 

RR&C,cool little coon. headers look great.

 

Solid , thanks, I spent a few days trying to get "the look" just right

 

Here's our 1964 Falcon Convertible. In the middle of replacing all the rusted out floor pans and inner rockers. Replacing the inner rockers with 2 2" X 4" lengths of rectangular tubing weldded together. Pretty much making it into a full frame car. Should help torsional stiffness.

Anyone have a source for good used rear quarter panels and rear wheel wells?

Thanks,
Harold

 

rr&c
killer dude! You do good work. It sits perfect.

 

falconizer 62, Thanks, your wagon is looking tough, keep up the good work!!!!

 

Did you use a Lokar Spoon throttle pedal ? Trying to incorporate a factory 65 gas pedal into a Holley fed SBF without using the factory contraption that bolts to the intake manifold.

 

pedal to come soon...

right now i'm cutting out the large quantity of spotwelds that attaches the upper rear shock mount to the floor. PITA! i can then make a new shock mount and the diff is done! well, still need brakes. anyone know what my options are for a 7.5" ranger diff? i hear that the ford explorer has discs that will bolt up and there should be plenty of those in wrecking yards, but i have no idea what years will work...
good luck and i am interested in your solution.

 

Anybody know how to take off the trim around the windows without bending any of the trim?

-Sam

 

Yes.
you need one of those old-fashioned can/bottle openers and a paint stir stick. One side of the can opener has a sharp point, the other is flat for bottles. Use the flat side. Put the paint stir stick flat against the stainless trim, so that the edge of the bottle opener doesn't crease it, and use the tab on the bottom to gently pull the trim off. Work slowly and in very small sections. lift the side of the trim that is closest to the glass.
I hope that helps.
Peace

 

For the Love of fabrication!!!!!! I wish I still had my 62 Mercury Comet!

 

Right on man, ill work with and see what happens, thanks

-Sam

 

I like the rear fender openings, and your plans for the rest of the car,looks good so far...

 

Fordsteel, those mustang wheelwells look good.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for putting a Y-block in it! To me that is the only way to do a period-correct V-8 swap in a pre-'62

What kind of axle are you going to go with? I put an econoline in my comet. Cut 7 inches out of it and it works like a charm.

 

I'm getting ready to make fenderwell headers for my Comet, so I'll post pics when I get them done. Also going to put on a teardrop scoop and I'll be sure to put up some pics of that too.

 

Awesome thread, thanks for sharing!

 

I got a '62,'64' an '65 for sale if anybody needs one.

 

We did finalize the design of the panhard rod.
It works great and the suspension is able to move as it is supposed to. (alot of changing angles happening)</><o></o>
The final part of the rear suspension is relocating the shock absorbers. Because of the change in angles of the trailing arms, the original mounting points will not work. A special thanks goes out to Chris Sorem for cutting out the original shock mount points. (A very uncomfortable job).<o></o>
Next is building a new shock brace and mounting system, finding the correct length shocks, and making and welding a mount to the rear axle, then take it all apart, and weld it up proper.
<o>peace</o>

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=9AbN2rJq3as7I

 

up top

 

I removed all the visible screws on the driver side fender and im having trouble taking it off? Is there any other extra screws or something else not visible?

-Sam

 

i had this problem once too. and now if i remember correctly there was/is a bolt(s) that was tricky to get at.

that wasn't really much help....

 

Open the door and you'll see one on top. There's another on the bottom that's a captured bolt; you can access the nut through a hole in the kick panel area. The captured bolt may turn.

Thanks,
Kurt

 

After a few minutes of looking around, i found the bottom ones in the kick panels, thanks anyways who helped

-Sam

 

as of now, this is where im at, busy laying down primer with a rattle can and wet sanding in between layers

-Sam

 

I have actually been working my ass off on this thing considering all the Christmas/holiday time commitments. The only bummer is, it never looks like anything is changing!
I had to redo the pan hard Rod, because of an undesirable angle conflict with the trailing arms. This required a complete redesign of the axle mount and an angle change on everything else, so it all had to come apart. I also had to shorten the rod 3/8 of an inch.
Then came the shocks... my upper shock bar needed to be right where the stock shock mount brace was. I had to drill out 75 spot welds, air chisel through the brace to get to the inner spot welds, Hammer and Dolly all the tears and distortions, weld up the holes and rips, and sand and grind down the welds.
Next, was making the shock bar and the shock mounts, measuring the shock mounting points at the extreme ends of travel, and finding shocks with the right ends that fit within this range. (All finished by the way)
Here are a few pictures that show some of that process...



The new parallel rod mount.



The whole shebang.


The beast from hell.



Definitely not the most comfortable way to spend three days!

I didn't take any pictures of the shock mounts, but I have one set in and the shocks are here (QA1s). I just plasma cut the rest of the axle brackets out yesterday at the shop .
Peace

 

Well I haven't started the headers yet, but I did replace the quarter windows with lexan and ditched the cranks today. The doors are getting the same treatment tomorrow. Went to the local fabric store and got straps and snaps similar to the '68 Hemi Dart setup so I can still let the windows up and down. Sorry, no pics, not really anything remarkable, will have some when I do the doors. Shaved 16lbs so far and less rattles!

 

Mercury, that will be SWEEEET!

 

Got one door done today, first one always takes a long time. I screwed up the placement of the snap on the door panel by about an 1/8" so it falls a bit when you shut the door, but its an easy fix. The door even has that "wumph" when you close it again, not just a bunch of junk rattling around. Plus, another 10lbs shaved! And since I got the lexan for free, I only spent 8 bucks to shave about 35lbs all together. Too dark for pics.

 

falconizer nice work i want to know how that front end works out for you. but boy you went full tilt booggy on the frame connectors how much power do those auzie 6 motors pull? as i mentioned before i am stuffing a 327 in mine but seeing how you did your rear end makes things a lot more simple. where do the trailling arms attach, i asume at the stock front leaf spring location? also if any of you with gasser falcons are reading this how do they drive like on the highway? i keep going back and forth about going straight axle with the front end but i dont want it super high in the air. i dont care as much about how it goes around cornners heck stock they handle like boats anyways. thanks and thanks to you falconizer for getting my mind back in the game and getting back to work on mine. i gotta take some pics of the new flames i did on my 62 ranchero.

 

Reading this cracks me up.....I gutted a '64 Falcon back in the early 70's. If it wasnt necessary, I cut it out or removed it. Ran a 2 gallon Moon tank for fuel. No wipers, heater, ducts, window mechanisms, trunk or hood hinges, 1 front seat, no back seat, no carpet, no upholstery ........etc. It was pretty fast back in the day.

Where are you in Central OH? I am in Gahanna. Perhaps we'll cross paths.