Features Doing Falcons Right

I would like to see someone mass produce just the ends for the subframe connectors, let the consumer source their own tubing.

It would make shipping easier and simplify dealing with Falcon/Comet/Mustang/Etc... differences.

 

The ends are usually such a simple affair, that I can't imagine anyone with a welder couldn't build their own easily. If I hadn't stumbled across a NOS pair I'd have built mine from scratch cheaper than what most places sell them for.

 

That wagon is sweet! Proportions looked great.

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Don't know if you got an answer, but, yes, the stud just rests on top of the tunnel and screws up/down to adjust. (At least it does on my 63 ht)

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Hood lookin' good!

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Could someone please help a guy out and show me the shelby drop setup?

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The template or a pic of the moved arm? If you google Shelby drop template you should be able to find a printable one that can be transferred to steel.

I didn't think to take any pictures while I had my front end apart.

 

Thanks guys.

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Hey guys,need some info on my f/end,i've got a 63 futura with a 289 and p/steer,q/s is will the mustang parts,tie rods,ball joints p/s ram etc fit my car,thanks Gaz!

 

For a US model, the short answer is no. Mustang center link (or drag link)is wider. Depending on the Mustang's model year, the ram and ram mounting are different. I'm pretty sure power steering pitman arm on the steering box won't interchange either. Inner tie rod ends are also different.

Some pretty good info here:

http://www.stangerssite.com/centerlinks.html

http://www.stangerssite.com/controlvalvepics.html

http://www.stangerssite.com/PC_IDchart.html

Click on the topics at the top of the page for additional info.

I went the other way and ditched the sketchy Ford power assist system for the later V-8 manual set up....

 

The radiator is finished. Now time for the cowl and to smooth out the dash

 

Upper Ball joints are the same
Lower Ball joints and control are are the same
Outer tie rod ends are the same
6 cylinder Idler is the same

V8 idler is different
Pitman arms are different - Falcon is 1 1/8" shaft, Mustang is 1"
center drag link is different
Inner tie rods are different

 

Thanks guy's,now I can get on with it,after I do the suspension and steering,i''ll move on to the interior,can you recommend a company who does a quality repop,i need seat covers,door panels and dash pad for a 63 futura conv with split bench .

 

Do all the Fomoco cars that have that basic front end [I beleive it ended 77' os so with the Mav/Comet] can use the Shelby drop or does it change some by make/model/year? I ask because I think I read some wheres that some of the drop was factory done in later years..

 

Falconizer, you do excellent work! Each time I log on I check to see if you've had an update. Thanks for sharing!

 

At some point I believe all Mustangs got the modified geometry. From what I've run across I believe the later Falcons and such still benefit from a change? As far as I know anything early enough to be HAMB friendly still benefits from the modification.

I read up way more than necessary before drilling those four half inch holes in my car. It is so simple a change but a rather unnerving one at the same time.

 

The Shelby Drop is Only performed on 1694-1970 Mustangs, Falcons etc. the 64-66 cars (and early Falcons) you drop down 1" and back 1/8", The 67-70 cars are straight down 1". This is perpendicular to the existing holes. In 1973 Ford revised the front suspension geometry to something similar to the drop.
Interesting side note, on the early race cars Klaus Arning, Ford's own suspension engineer who came up with this drop, went down 1.75", but it put a lot of stress on the upper Ball joints and caused failures so they stopped doing it. Some companies still do that, but with a wedge kit or modified upper arm.
By the way, the Shelby drop will only lower the car about 1/4" - it is about improving the camber curve, not lowering the car - you need shorter springs for that.

 

More drop on the control arm than 1" is overkill on the street. 1-3/4" is great for really high speed cornering, faster than is responsible on the street. That said, if you have a Falcon, Ranchero, Comet, or Mustang, and you have not done this, you are missing out. It is practically free, and makes a world of difference.

 

What is that world of difference? I haven't noticed the difference, but maybe that's due to other variables.

 

I can take a 270º off-ramp, at 75, in my '60 Falcon, dug in, like it is on rails. It has ALL new suspension, Shelby GT350 spec coils, a 1" front bar, 6-leaf springs in the rear, and KYB's all round. It has a warmed-up 144, so I run out of engine long before I get anywhere near breaking a tire loose in a corner. It has power discs, if the light is not green. I only have to slow down to stop my wife screaming. Road-racer handling, 32mpg.

 

Gimpy , got photos of your '60 you can share ?


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Very nice work!

 

I'll shoot some more today, when the light gets good. Dynamat, carpet padding, and ditching the road draft tube are on-deck. Trimming the back seat frame to clear the modified tunnel, too, if there is time. It's an ugly runner, for now. Cosmetics will come when I get my finaces untied.

 

Not much to look at, for now, but man, does it go. I am going to put 1" back in the front, since high-centering on the T5 case, in the grocery store parking lot is, well, embarrassing. Probably not good for the transmission, either.

 

Very nice indeed gimpy. What is a road draft tube?

 

Prior to the modern PCV, or positive crankcase ventilation system, many engines had their crankcases vented via a tube that ran down toward the ground. The idea was that the air movement over the end of the tube, while driving, the "road draft", would suck the aerosolized oil, and excess pressure out of the crankcase. This, of course, means that said oil ends up on the chassis and ground, and your old car smells like oil, all of the time. Also, as only one end of that system has a filter, in the event that conditions cause the flow to be inverted, that tube simply draws in unfiltered air, from near the ground.

Since I do not own where I park, oil on the concrete is not acceptable. The wife does not like the smell, either.

I am converting to a modern-style, closed PCV system.

 

Love it!

Revernd Paul

 

Thanks Gimpy , What a neat looking thing! My daily driver is a well sunburnt '53 F100 , so I'm familiar with the "goes better than it looks" deal !
Thanks for posting.


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Gimpy rocks. Thanks for the detailed explanation. I have never encountered one.