Features Doing Falcons Right

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-70-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-PUSH-ROD-SPACER-C5DZ-2B129-B-P280.aspx

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-AFTER-81764-73-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-PUSH-ROD-BUSHING-AT-PEDAL-P281.aspx

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/ADJUSTABLE-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-PUSH-ROD-P398.aspx

 

Thanks for the link. Was wondering where u could get those nylon bushings from. Since my parts house would have to order them they said.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

I'm sure there's a vendor on the left coast that would have them.

I use these guys because they're close and the prices are very competitive...

 

So do I need to run the adjustable pedal rod or can I use the stock rod? Just trying to make it as cheap as possible since money is tight this month and I'll be doing my 60 and 61 falcon.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

I dunno, Dad, I didn't try the original push rod-



Notice that the original push rod (top) uses an eccentric bolt for pedal free play adjustment and it doesn't have the flat on the end (where the pedal pivots on the push rod) that engages the mechanical brake light switch.

I knew that most later master cylinder push rods have the flat, so I didn't try the original.

 

Hmmm. Haven't looking at mine in awhile. I'll have to check it out here in a few and find out. But looking at the pic looks like I might need the adjustable one.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

Nos cal custom I posted in here. and got a set best of luck ! I want to eventually start making them

 

On the brake light switch fix on my '60, with the eccentric adjuster.

I knocked out the pedal stop bumper, and put a Standard Motor Products SLS66 switch, in its place. I just spliced into the green wire that comes out of the column, and bridged the wires that went to the original pressure switch.

A little less complicated, and the switch is super-common.

 

I used a mechanical lever switch on my Roadster simply because I could stop the Roadster with a light touch on the pedal and never light the lights, 4 wheel discs. I set it up so a 1/4 inch of movement on the brake pedal sets off the lights.
Just a thought

 

That's simple. Same brake switch used on a 75 chevy pickup and I got a few laying around. Thanks for the info. Seems Easier and it's cheaper then the other way since the switch is only like 6 bucks at your local parts house.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

That was exactly what I was thinking. Easy, repeatable, easily field-serviceable.

 

And exactly what I needed too. Was looking at my pedal assembly today and trying to find a simpler way and you figured it out for me. As for the green wire off the column. Is that a hot wire? I got an after market harness so will have to look at what wires I have off that for a brake switch. Since I haven't finished wiring it all in yet.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

Nice!

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If you have the stock steering column wiring, you should find a green wire coming out of the column tube. That wire goes into the column tube, & supplies power to the turn signal switch, which runs both the turn signals and brake lights. Power is delivered to that wire via the brake light switch. On a stock early round body Falcon, power is delivered to hydraulic brake pressure switch on the master cylinder, and when switched delivered back to that green wire. In order to retrofit on a stock early Falcon, you simply disconnect the existing hydraulic switch, connect those leads together, which turns the brake lights on, and then cut the green wire at the column, which turns to brake lights off, and splice in the new switch there. With an aftermarket harness you simply need to provide 12 volt constant power to one side of the brake light switch, and hook that green wire to the other side of the switch. Provided that you have properly wired the stop / tail lights, from the switch in the column, you should be good to go. If you don't have a wiring diagram let me know, I will try to scan that section and post it.

 

My Bonnie used a brake light switch that you pulled to close. Had one side mounted to the frame, the other to the rear brake lever by a long spring.

Seems that sort of switch would be much easier to install that something requiring a push rod.

 

Well, Presented the '60 For it's Modified Vehicle Certification today . Passed with no problems so the next step is to present it for Compliance , hand over another pile of Cash and then it will be all road legal .


.

 

Why not just take the two wires from the hydraulic switch and route them to the new mechanical switch? Wouldn't that be simpler with less cutting and splicing?

 

The wires for the hydraulic switch are outside the passenger compartment, past the firewall, on the other side of a bulkhead connector. The wires for the new switch are all or near the column, near the brake pedal pivot, inside the passenger compartment.

 

Well, we completed the body work, and put it in base coat for now. I want to run it on the Road Course a little before final paint in case of any potential rubbing issues.

 

Wow! I like the rear valance/faux bumper treatment!

 

damn I usually don't like radius rear fenders but that looks sharp carrying that line in to the bumper!

 

Thanks- although there is no bumper. We basically made a roll pan/valance out of the rear and eliminated the bumper all together

 

roll pan I ment !

 

So many awesome Falcons in this thread.

This is my crew cab 63.



<a href="http://s459.photobucket.com/user/ditch_digger/media/falcon/20130314_175840_zpse8f581a2.jpg.html" target="_blank"></a>



Totally stock except a narrowed explorer 8.8, Granada front end and some coilovers up front. Still 170 and a column three.

 

Hey guys. I picked up a 62 falcon wagon and the 3 speed has taken a dump on me. I'm going to do the c4 swap in it this weekend but need to find a yoke. Is it safe to use the t5 yoke even though it's shorter than the one for a c4? My local junk yards destroyed all old cars because of scrap metal prices.


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that roll pan came out AWESOME!! Ditchdigger, that is a sweet 4 door.

 

Playin with some caps....



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Hey JohnnyG,

I'm sorry I didn't get to your P.M. last night. I have never done this deal, so I really don't know how to answer this for you other than C/4 yokes are so common that I would look for just that. You have to have a driveshaft shop or parts wholesaler somewhere fairly close that can get you one very quickly, or a trans shop that has one laying under the bench somewhere about.

 

I bought a C4 yoke from Falcon Enterprises a while back. I put it in a T86/R10, but it worked out just fine since the spline count and diameter matched.