Features Doing Falcons Right

That's gonna look bitchin'!

 

back on the road after a gas tank swap and a carb jet tune. I followed exactly the specs posted a couple pages back. His was a 144 and at sea level. Mine is a 170 and in Iowa (around 1000') and I must say my as dyno says it's pretty good I can actually for it without it falling flat. I'll have to wait until work in the morning to see if my sustained throttle dying issue is gone or not. But so far so good.



Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I'm very interested in your feed back on this as I plan to do Gimpy's exact set up with my 170, and am in Indiana around 700' sea level.



Posted using my Big THUMB on a small screen!

 

So far it is great... throttle response is great and I can actually open the secondary without it bogging down and wanting to stall. Heading to work shortly so I'll let you know about the other issue. I posted about it on the last page or so if you want to read about the issue I was having there.

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

No issues driving in. I adjusted the float while I had the carb apart not too much change but so far it has worked. Just keep driving it now and work all the bugs out

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Glad to hear it's working out!

 

I'd like to keep the stock brake set up on my 61. With the exception of the master cylinder. Which double bowl cylinder can I replace it with. Granada ?
Mustang?


Posted using my Big THUMB on a small screen!

 

Oh damn, here we go again! Use a Maverick non power drum/drum unit and all should be well if you run your stock drum brakes.

 

We need a FAQ page.

 

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Maybe the new format has people confused about the search feature. Or could it be that somebody's having fun poking the bear?

 

It's not like I asked if I needed a proportioning valve. Lol
Besides every time I try to search some thing it says system message no results found.


Posted using my Big THUMB on a small screen!

 

This is what my 62 Falcon turned into after 50 years. It grew up to be a Vintage Dirt Modified that has won 3 races.

 

1967 Mustang is the dual MC I hear about for stock drums. Good luck.


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

The late 60's Mustang masters come in drum/drum or disc/drum, so regardless of which you use they're a good choice. That's what I put on my '63 when I built it.

 

Can someone tell me if the early falcon shop manuals cover the station wagons too? Trying not to over think this.
Thanks


Posted using my Big THUMB on a small screen!

 

Yup!

 

It's all in there.

 

Dont know why its sideways sorry guys

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

And alittle update 15x7 on my wagon

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I have the Granada disc brake set up on 61 and am using the 67 mustang disc/drum manual brake master. rear brakes are drum on a 9 inch. car stops great even at high speeds at the drag strip.

 

Nice clean work, Evil!

 

Because I'm queer for anything electrical and I cant leave well enough alone, I ditched my Painless adjustable fan controller for this really spiffy Ron Francis AR-67 fan controller:

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AR-67
http://www.ronfrancis.com/images/AR67-INST.pdf
I really dig the "run on" feature that enables the fan to run for 2 minutes after the ignition is shut off, provided the engine temp is in the "on" range. I've got my "on" temp set at around 205F. Shuts off at 190F. Engine is happiest in that range.

 

I havent posted for a while because I havent done much lately.
Still consumed with VW stuff. Been building tub kits for busses so that people can go lower without rubbing their tires. But once I finish up and sell my bus I am going to get started on the wagon. I want to bag it and will be asking a bunch of stupid questions so I can do it fairly cheep but still reliable and safe since I want to have the family in it.
I did get some 4 lug Tru-Spokes from Need Louvers

and I am trying to figure out a way to cut and weld my spindles to make 2"-2.5" drop spindles. I am a certified welder but still open to suggestions. I was thinking of doing multi pass T.I.G. or even dual shield and tossing them in kitty litter to cool super slow. They are forged steel so with the correct rod I could even arc them. I will start making a jig so that everything is in the correct spot when welded back. I will then use the scarebird kit to swap to 4 lug disc, Thanks again to Need louvers for all the info.
Here is a picture Craig510s spindles, he cut out 1.5" of the top of his spindles. I plan on taking out 2-2.5"" and adding it to the bottom so that only the spindle and brake mounting holes move up.



He then added spacers to the bottom to basically make a 1.5" drop spindle.

 

Why? Cutting coils, and trimming the tower outer can get you 4-5" down, without the potentially disastrous results if you don't get this right. Plus, with a relocated upper control arm, you will get sports car class handling.

 

I will do the relocating and I will likely narrow the upper and lower control arms also.
I will be bagging it and don't want the geometry that far off. I have 100% confidence in my welds and am sure when I am done it will be as strong if not stronger than before.
I will have the spindles checked/tested through my work to make sure there are no stress cracks or voids before bolting them to my car.
Once again I would never do anything that would potentially put my family in danger.
Cutting enough coils to lower it 5" with the relocating the upper control arms would make your BJs bind way too much and would be unsafe, from my own experience.
In my 66 mustang I cut coils and did the arm relocating and I destroyed the balljoints I ended up pie cutting the upper control arms and boxing them in to correct it. Also I had to relocate the stabilizer bar because it was resting on the frame.

 

There are wedges that solve the ball joint issue. I run 5" down.

 

The wedges made my 17s rub on the upper control arm.
I know you know what you are talking about and I appreciate the help/advise but I want to go about it a different way. If for any reason I feel that it's not safe I will go a different route.

Just in case I would still like to know your setup. 5" lowered sounds awesome. Can you post a picture? Did you have to shim the upper control arms out to correct the camber or did you narrow the lower control arm? Did you have any issues with the stabilizer bar hitting the frame? I want to explore all my options and go from there.
Thank you

 

Who sells the wedges?


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I like these guys... good tech and products. They have fair prices and if they find cheaper shipping they refund the difference that you paid for shipping. http://dazecars.com/dazed/test.html#1

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!