Features Doing Falcons Right

Not sure when adjust-ability stopped. I thought it was last seen in '62.

The early perches are greasable bronze. I didn't keep mine because they had never been greased, and they were destroyed. Examine yours carefully.

I have roller bearing ones now.

 

These are the lower adjusters. The brackets weld on, and you slot the hole.

http://www.mustangsplus.com/Mustang-Camber-Kits/

 

No.

 

Ahh yes. I was looking at my unibody repair manual. The extra metal is aft of the cardinal points.

And sure, you could turn a sedan or even a wagon into a Ranchero, but why?

Ford already did that, and they are not exactly rare.

 

So, my stock hood hinges on the '62 Falcon were trashed.

I replaced them with what I thought were a decent aftermarket set.

One of them promptly bent. It's entirely possible I'm just an idiot, but I hadn't screwed up a hinge install before.

Anyone have recommendations for a nice aftermarket set? I'm open to anything as long as I can get my hood to align with the fenders properly. Thanks much.

 

Back to the Econoline trans comments. 61-62 version had what was called the Non Synchro Crash Box which was a side loader three speed with the narrow bellhousing (to transmission). 63-67 had the Ford 3.03 box, a top loader design. 63-4 had the narrow bell and were a popular swap for the 61-2 vehicles. 65-7 mostly had the wide bellhousing. There is also some indication that there were 'F' code transmissions in 63-4 which were a Dagenham 4 speed.

 

I'm beginning the process of putting the front end back together on my 61. There's steel plate that the spring sits in at the top of the shock tower. Ive read some where that these were tack welded in but mine fell out during the dismantle. Will it sit in there without any problem without tack welding it or does it need to be tack welded. It can only fit one way. I would like to put a rubber insulator between it and the shock tower (maybe a piece if inner tube) if Im not tack welding it. Is there any reason why this is a bad idea? I have the insulator that goes onto the spring.

 

The early ones were not welded. They stay in just fine. The rubber insulator goes between it, and the spring.

Those upper plates locate the spring. Putting something between it and the body could allow the spring to move in an undesirable fashion.

Inner tube rubber would be destroyed in this application, in very short order.


Traditional?

 

Traditional? Huh?

 

That's the message signature when I am using the phone app.


Traditional?

 

I'm bolting on the calipers using the Scarebird setup. I've mounted the rim only to find out that the caliper is rubbing. Should I grind the corner of the caliper or use a wheel spacer. The lugs on the hub are about 1 5/8 long about a 1/2" longer than original.

Sent from my LGLS990 using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Hmmm. How much grinding we talking about. I assume the caliper is rubbing the inside of the wheel? I'm one to try and make it work before spending.....

 

Just bought this.. 289 3 spd.. Just bought a 4 spd top loader I hope I can make fit.. I really like 64/65 Falcon hardtops...

 

Love!!!

 

Doesn't look like much but it is in side the rim so it's hard to tell. Its only hitting the inner part of the steelie slots.

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Would you happen to have a extra caliper you could use for mock up? Grind that till it would fit and then have a reference for your good stuff?

 

No extra caliper, had to hunt to find the ones I have. I a using 14" rims.

 

If your using the same kit I did. Kit PNY something like that it's for 15" wheels.
Are you 4lug or 5? Perhaps you could source a 15" steelie from a junk yard and try that out. Also hunt for a set of calipers there on the cheap.

 

I'm using the 4 lug set up. The 14" rim is supposed to fit. I think I'm going to try grinding the corner of the caliper although I've found some spacers for only $7 ea.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/gor...JrHFMGdyF_vwnwMIQbqw7Vw4NQG9StqvRoaAtda8P8HAQ

 

That sounds good. Probably won't take much. Just another quick thought how about spacing out with a few washers? I had to do that with the rear disc rotor on mine. Two flats to space it off the backing plate where it was dragging a bit. Anyways...... Best of luck. Keep us updated on how it works out.

 

Not sure where to put this one. A FASTBACK Falcon from 1963

found here http://bangshift.com/bangshiftapex/...lest-racing-events-nassau-speed-weeks-wvideo/

 

That's a Holman-Moody Falcon.

I believe there were only 2 or 3 originals.

 

There were 3 I know at least one survived and has been restored. there were called the Challenger Falcon's .

 

The originals, if I remember correctly, are a 3"chop, and a 3" section.

 

Here's a inside vid of me making some test passes at the 1/8 mile drag strip last Friday night.
It's not breaking and speed records. But it's kool. My son and I built it. And it kicks ass.

 

I have two different sets of rims. The second set of 14" clear the caliper; those are from a 67 mustang. The wheel code is 7MM. The first set was from a 64 falcon. The wheel code is 4MK; those hit the caliper but might work with a 1/4" or 1/2" wheel spacer.

 

I'm having trouble on the passenger side getting the strut rod to line up. Does somebody know what the length is supposed to be on the early falcon? I measured the distance from the frame to the end of the strut rod before removing it and it just doesnt look right with the new arms.

 

The length is set on the alignment rack.

Make sure you have it attached to the lower control arm in the correct holes.

 

I ran the 4MK wheels for a little while. I used a 1/4" billet spacer to get them to clear the caliper, while I was waiting for my alloy wheels to be delivered.