I just picked up a short shaft Corvair box to replace the long shaft I have now in my T Roadster. With the short shaft I can place a U joint outside the firewall to gain some additional foot room near the brake pedal. Apparently GM used that 5/8" X 36 spline count on Vega's, Corvairs and some late model R & P units. Perhaps other cars used it as well. Anyone know a late model donor vehicle to pull this U joint from? I'm hoping to get the full column and all from a donor to take apart and make a new, thin column for the T, but I'm coming up empty on just what cars actually used that spline! I'd rather use an OEM setup over aftermarket as I prefer the thru bolt style retention. I just don't trust set screws! Thanks....
I'd love to find one too, and have looked forever with no luck. Just rag joints and straight couplers unless you go aftermarket and then its a set screw.
Really? That ****s. The late model stuff they suggest MIGHT have the right joint is impossible to check without a load of dis***embly as the racks are hidden behind the engine and cradle. Every GM car at Parts U Pick was either still complete or the rack was missing...along with the joint, because the takers just slipped the slip joint apart and took it all. Really ****s to have to pay $70.00 plus exchange plus shipping for a single joint...especially when you consider the method of retention is inferior to OEM...and its most likely made in China. I did get 1/2 of the factory coupler...some kind of plunge joint...so I have a spline. Just don't have a joint. I guess I could weld it to a joint I do have and go from there. Would have rathered no welding though. Still...the joint ***embly I have is pressed and formed from 3/16th or so plate, not a thick forging, so welding would be a pretty simple thing. Hopefully someone will read this thread and know exactly what car to pull a joint from and no welding will be involved at all...
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ac425161&Store_Code=PC Will $40.00 help.
Not sure of spline count. I used a coupler from an 85 chevy van. It has a vibration dampner also. Could be adjusted just a little bit as it has a crash sleeve. It couples to a 525 box.
*************************************************************** As well, you shouldn't, at least not in your steering system. I used the u-joints from Speedway, and had a set screw loosen on me. Got a bit exciting for a short period of time, but the system now has roll pins. Roger
Borgeson Made In USA. If a set screw loosens up it didn't have loc-***e on it, steering joints don't separate in normal cir***stances. For what it's worth I've only used Borgeson for my steering joints and never had a problem. Pat
That looks pretty good! Has factory style retainer bolt too!!! I'd still prefer a donor setup because I want a slip joint and upper u joint ***embly and perhaps even an inner column shaft. My current column is a bit iffy but repairable. It's made in China unfortunately...but not much isn't these days...and it IS the style I want. If I don't get something figured out by mid-week I will be ordering one of those for sure. Thanks!!!
There are several reasons I don't like set screws. For one...All machined surfaces have a tolerance. Lets say the joint is a bit large and the shaft is a bit small. The set screw pushes the shaft into the opposite splines. The splines near the set screw are basicly unloaded and doing nothing. As a result the set screw can work itself into the shaft and cause the opposite splines to lose grip and wear. with a thru bolt, not only do you get absolute retention as a result of the bolt p***ing thru a milled clearance slot, but you also get ALL the internal splines solidly clamped around the output shaft once you tighten the bolt. Set screws work...thru bolts are much better.
I have used many U-joints in projects over the years and never had one come loose that was correctly installed. When you do the final test fit and have the pieces done take the set screws out and center punch the spot where the screw tightened against the shaft. Now drill a countersunk hole about a 1/16" deep. ***emble the parts and bottom the screw into the countersunk hole with a drop of Loc***e on the screw and another drop onto the nut and tighten it down. If you are truly paranoid or are the belt and suspenders type you can wrap a small screw type hose clamp around the outside of the joint and capture the screws.
NO WAY would I want a China made Ujoint (although sadly most are), but CHROMED on top of that? Of course I'm sure that they take the utmost care to bake out any hydrogen embrittlment. Because they take the time to insure the highest quality and safety standards,,,,,,, at least the Hoffman Group thinks so
I am using a 92 Festiva rack on my Consul Capri and it is 5/8"-36 spline, not sure if that is the same as the Vega or if there are different spline profiles. It has a nice UJoint that has a clamp through-bolt and 5/8"-36 spline female spline on both ends. Those cars also use a second vibration reducer Ujoint at the firewall with a male one end and female other end with that same spline.
Hackerbilt: This may be too late four your project but thought I would p*** this information along. I spent an afternoon at the wreckers and located what should help with your Vega steering. Thanks TomP64 for the lead. I located a 93 Ford Fiesta and YES the steering U-Joint is 5/8-36 spline. It mates with the Vega and Corvair steering box perfectly. The steering shaft has an ***embly consisting of a dual U-Joint and a vibration damper. The ***embly can be divided into a single joint and a joint/damper, all with clamp bolts. The steering column is short , probably less than 30 inches. It is rather bulky with signals etc., probably too bulky for a bucket, but would be a good base for a custom column. I sawed the splined stub off the column to make up the shaft I require for my application. In hind-site I should have taken the complete column. I cut the shaft too short. The splined shaft main section has a DD cross section, slightly larger than 17mm, ( but smaller than 3/4 DD ) which could easily be modified to fit the 17mm u-joint on the column I plan to use. I now have to fab up a short section of shaft, but I now have the proper materials. Price at the local Pick - n - Pull came to a whopping $12.49
5/8 36 was used in above - BORGESON catalog.. The 5/8 36 Chrysler is not interchangeable with GM 5/8 36
The U-Joint is from a 93 Ford Festiva. Not a Fiesta as I had indicated. It was built by Mazda for Ford for the North American market. It appears they were also sold as Mazda 121 and Kia Pride in other parts of the world. The spline fits the Vega or Corvair box beautifully. Not a lot of the car remained, other than Ford I could find no identification. The wrecker had marked the unit as 93 Festiva, along with their stock numbers etc. If built by Mazda, other Mazda models may use the same U-Joint. The U-Joints use a pinch bolt, rather than set screws, which is generally a preferred method.
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