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door shaving on early 50s GMs? help a brotha out?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chromedRAT, Jan 19, 2004.

  1. chromedRAT
    Joined: Mar 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,737

    chromedRAT
    Member

    i was dead set on shaving the doors on my 50 pontiac, kinda needs it, it has too many doors. my idea was to use the factory push ****on, but move it in. well, they put window track in the way, so there goes that idea. anybody else shave their doors on a like-vintaged GM and still have functioning locks? as much as i hate to have door handles, i'd rather have it lock. and don't worry, i won't JUST shave the back doors. it'll be all shaved or nothing shaved. thanks in advance.
     
  2. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,419

    DrJ
    Member

    Put solenoids in it.
    There's kits for everything.
    Get the remote ****on setup so you push the ****on on the key fob, like the door & trunk openers on newer cars.
    They usually hook up to the inside door handle part of the door latch so the window channel won't be an issue.

    If ya haven't got the money this week, save till ya do...
     
  3. Rocket88
    Joined: Jul 11, 2001
    Posts: 912

    Rocket88
    Member

  4. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,323

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj

    Don't mean to step on anybody's toes, here, BUT:
    In my experience, I've found that the early 50's Chev's (and other GM) have a really tough door latch ***embly. Takes a LOT of power to pop-em. In my old 54, I used the gear reduction style pullers (Ball's), installed similarly to Rocket88's post. With a lot of cleaning out of the old grease and rust, and a lot of new grease in it, they worked "OK". Good advise to use metal rod as an actuator rod, instead of cable, here. With all the pressure it takes to open them, cable stretches.
    In the 46, I am putting in late model latches, which take a lot less pull to open. Takes some time body work wise, but will be better in the long run.
    I've found that power lock pulls don't last long, and most times aren't even strong enough to begin with. Starter solenoids (esp 6 volt jobs) are stong enough, but I've seen a few stick, and burn up the car's wiring, when they do.
    You've seen my Olds, I made a set of flush mounted door ****ons for it, and they've worked flawlessly for 25 years. i can send you a diagram how they go together
    A tip for you if you want shaved handles, but still want the car safe! (Did this on my Olds, but you can do it with electric doors, too) I put in power locks, then hid a station wagon rear window switch behind the grill. The kind that works the tailgate window. It is key operated, and you turn the key one way...open locks....the other way, it locks them.
    With electric door pulls, you could also just have a key operated switch that controls all the electric in the car, or one that just energizes the door relays. When turned off, no one can open the doors...no juice!!
     
  5. chromedRAT
    Joined: Mar 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,737

    chromedRAT
    Member

    i don't think i'll be able to put electric poppers in, a big affordability issue, and it'd be hard just picking a brand to get. i'm a subs***ute teacher, so i'm trying for as low-buck as possible. the electric door lock idea sounds like it has some serious promise though. hell, that switch could be locked up itself. i'll give it some thought this week while i'm waiting on my EZ grind wire to get here. chopolds, check your PMs, man.
     
  6. Nads
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 11,875

    Nads
    Member
    from Hypocrisy

    Solenoids ****, with all apologies to Dr.J.
    What you need are Ball Actuators, they're screw driven and waterproof. They're also utterly 100% percent reliable and never fail. I've had mine on my car for 10 years, they rule.
     
  7. chromedRAT
    Joined: Mar 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,737

    chromedRAT
    Member

    so where can i find ball actuators?:)
     
  8. Nads
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 11,875

    Nads
    Member
    from Hypocrisy

    In my pants, hardee har har!
    Honestly I can't remember where I bought them from.
     
  9. DIRTYT
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 3,264

    DIRTYT
    Member
    from Warren,MI

    just shave em and never latch the vent windows thats how my 50 chev is set up. now some one can steal it so i can get insurance money [​IMG] ive onley latched them once when i was drunk but thats why i have triple A.and it makes the two guy happy cause he gets to use his never before used vent window tool!
     
  10. Sam F.
    Joined: Mar 28, 2002
    Posts: 4,225

    Sam F.
    BANNED

    like old beet said the other day,,,just dont lock your vent windows,,,simple [​IMG]. thats what im doing on my 50 ford.
     
  11. chromedRAT
    Joined: Mar 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,737

    chromedRAT
    Member

    it'd still be nice to have a way in though! i spent a half hour breaking into my grand am with 1/8 inch welding rod when i locked the keys in it while drunk (wasn't driving it, got dropped off at home and got something out of it and locked the keys in). only problem is, i can't shut the door while locked and have it stay locked. ****er unlocks itself, so i'd have to make it obvious by reaching in and locking it. it IS an idea though, that might work if i can make the latch lock, latch, and unlatch without locking when closed. thanks to everybody, tech rules.
     

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