im building doors for my gl*** 34, im using a bear claw style latch and a stiker bolt. my stiker bolt is not long enough. you cannot space it out becuase the washer will hit the door.. right now my collar length is .70 and i need it to be at an inch. its stadard ford striker, .55" dia , 7/16-14 tread. im trying to find a longer striker without having a machinist make me some. the thread size does not matter i can change that.. i just need one with a collar thats .55 dia and 1" long . any ldeas? i did a few google searches, mscdirect and mcmaster carr.. no luck
I used the ones that came with the latches, and your right they are about 3/4 " long. I don't understand how they can be to short and interfere if you space them out. How much space is between the latch and the door jamb when the door is closed ? Some pics of the problem would help us understand it better.
Because how I constructed my doors . My latches bolt through 1/4 plate , 1/4 of fibergl***. So the striker bolt has to go through both those then there is the door gap 1/4 all the way around . That's how my car is built.. So on too of that, I cannot countersink my bolts due to they screwed up the gl*** on the part of the door when they molded it . So I have very thin Allen head domed cap screws holding the latch, which hits the washer on the striker bolt. I would have to space it out 1/8-3/16 to make it close and clear the larger round collar on the end of the bolt. , and if I do that, the washer hits the door . No all doors are nice and thin Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The pictures were a big help, I now see your problem. Good luck with the fabrication of the longer bolts.
Do you (or a friend) have a lathe? seems like you could take a bolt, cut the head down to give you the head end and step it down at whatever length you need. I'm thinking a 9/16 (grade 8) bolt cut down to 1/2" threaded end,a nice square shoulder with a thick washer at the threaded end to bear on the body and enough threads to get through the fibergl***/metal area and a nice self locking nut. Not sure I explained that very well................
I drew one up in autoCAD and sent it to a machine shop... No one I know has a lathe Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Unicorp makes a shoulder bolt (SBC750-6) that has a 1 inch long shoulder, .499 shoulder diameter,3/8-16 thread (5/8 long). You might be able to use a coupling nut (Grainger 1 JA14), with the hex turned off on part of it (there's that lathe thing again) coming through a washer from the other side. The shoulder bolt would need a sleeve - 9/16 .035 wall chromoly is close, though 9/16 .028 stainless tubing would be better. If you want, PM me the AutoCad drawing and I'll see if I can come up with something - at least a price.
i need a .55 shoulder to fit my bear claw latch..... 1/2 nolts use a .499 shoulder and a 9/16 bolt used a .588 shoulder.. and i have no way to turn it down. i thought of the bolt thing. i checkec msc and mcmaster carr for a shoulder bolt then a small sleeve on it.. the only sleeve availble is bronze and i want it to be a hard metal.
If you have a access to a large drill press and a grinder you can cut the 9/16 bolt down. Run the press on high speed while grinding, clean it up with a good file then lay some sand paper to it.
80's to 90's ford trucks have a nylon sleeve w****d around the strike bolt, might be able to use a 0.499 shoulder bolt with one of those and get close to the 0.55 you need.
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