So Ive been messing with my drivers door cuz it wont shut all the time. I have to lift the inner handle and pull the door shut at the same time. If I dont catch it just right, it wont close. I dont know why its doing this. Ive been adjusting the striker on the body all morning and havent been able to get it. the star clicks in and holds it, but wont hold it completely shut. Anyone have any ideas on what I could try next? Help is appreciated! Thank you, Rocky
My p***enger front door is the same way . No matter how much I adjust the striker it will not totally close completely . My drivers door I adjusted and closes as easy as a new car . Go figure ! I am going to replace both with bear claws for safety . Jim
Those bear claws require a lot of welding dont they? I have heard the name a lot, but never knew anything about them.
Sounds like the upper door hinge is worn. Try opening the door about 1/4 way, then lifting up on it. If you get movement up in the door, the hinge pin is worn.
Rocky , yes they do need to be welded in . You say you have to Pick the door up to get it to close , right ? Are your hinge pins worn out some ? If you can pick the door up and down the hinges need fixed first . Then you can adjust the door . Also is the rubber door seal in place and good or is it missing ? Jim
I'm going back a few years but used to be, Chevy (probably other GMs too) had a hinge pin kit available that included a pin and 2 bronze/br*** bushings. Not being a mech, I don't recollect how they were secured in the hinge but it seems that they were floating pins, maybe with a small cotter pin on the bottom. They might still be available at a parts store. Ford didn't sell replacement pins back then but the GM ones worked fine and saved customers quite a few $$$. I think the holes in the hinges needed to be reamed out slightly to accomodate the bushing. I think it was late 70s when Ford made a similar kit primarily for the 2dr Granadas & Monarchs cuz those doors were so heavy that the doors sagged darn-near when new.
mac's has new pins and if you're car is like mine it's missing the rubber bumpers which makes our doors want to shut more than they're supposed to. but try mac's http://macsautoparts.com/default.asp?camid==
and i bet you found a bunch of stuff you'd like from macs..as did i..just beware that most of that stuff is probably made in china and if you can find a good original part buy the original or NOS..Mac's does come in handy though
Dragonknucks- Rocky you have to remove upper door hinge from car to replace pins. 1.remove upper window frame from door (philps screws) 2.remove door trim panel (inside door handle,window&vent handles,arm rest) 3.First mark for reference where the hinges align on door (top&bottom)with some kind of marker. 4.put a floor jack under door to support weight of door. Have someone help hold door. You are going to remove three bolts on the lower hinge and three blots on the upper hinge then you and your helper are going to slide door back off hinges. Now set door aside. 5.With door off car you can remove upper hinge. two large philp screws and two bolts in hinge pocket. 6.With hinge off car NOW you can replace hinge pins. P.S. sometimes you can loosen top hinge three bolts on door 'only' and lift up on door and retighten bolts to take out the play in top hinge. Rocky look on my album I have some pictures of the door latches I installed on my 54. They are from a 84 Plymouth Horizon. I use these on alot of my cars. Charles
RB, I took the left door off of the '54 today to replace the door sill. I forgot about the door limiter and found out the hard way. I couldn't get the limiter out of the door and wound up grinding the pin that holds it to the door jamb. Am I missing something? I don't want to do that to the other door. Its probably something simple that I missed. Thanks for your help.
I haven't had to do it myself, but I've read that when removing a door or hood that if you drill a 1/8 inch hole through the hinge & body behind it while the door is still mounted, when you re***emble it you just put the drill bit back through the hole you drilled, then the parts will be aligned perfectly.
That's a real good trick. It gets you back real close when you re***emble, but you still have to tweak evrything a little to get the door gaps just right.
Flyboy you are right. I must of had a brain fart. The first thing is the check strap pin needs to be removed. Then all the other parts. MY BAD! Charles
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