Doors: T coupe

I think a person could make the part around the window by hammering it into a wood form , except for the lip at the glass that turns in. I'm gonna try to make one later this spring if you guys think there is enough demand for these doors.

 

The 26-27 T Coupe and Tudor sedans share the same door as well as the 28-29 Ford Closed Cab Pickups. BUT the hinges are different between the T cars and the A pickups.

The doors we have for the A pickup are T doors. We sold the A pickup doors, dinged alot but not rotten, shortly after acquiring the T doors over 25 years ago for $750 the pair. Today that price would be or could be easily be for just ONE door, especially the driver's side.

 

My roached A pickup cab with title is getting more valuable by the day

 

An option is to use the earlier t doors and shorten the body, depending on your body condition. A buddy bought a mint 25 and earlier door, it is dimentionaly the same but 4 inch narrower for $82.00 on ebay that included shipping. His coupe body was a basket case and in pieces so this was a good option. 24-25 doors have a metal structure and 23 back have wood frames, maybe they could be widened?

 

That's a good idea.
The bottom portion is reproduced, the inner structure shouldn't be that bad to make.
It's the top ortioin that goes around the windows that is missing reproducing the doors.
Does anybody have pics of earlier T doors around the windows?
I'd like to see how they compare to the later T doors.
r

 

Here are some pics of two small doors, one with the steel inner structure 24-25 and one of a wood 23 down. The front hinge structure on the metal door is the same as the 26-27 doors as far as i can remember, i don't have a 26-27 door here to measure. All the wood structure doors i seem to find are very nice, maybe because the wood rots out quickly and doesen't hold water, this one is chromeable lol. The smaller doors don't seem to fetch as much cash as maybe people don't want to go through the trouble to widen them but this can't be anymore work than replacing the bottom half on the correct door?

 

I see the moulding contour around the window is a little different from the '26-7 doors, but not enough to discourage me. I think it's a great idea.
Anyone have a 24-5 driver's door for sale?
r

 

26-7 T coupe door.

 

Just sitting waiting it's turn.

I have a pair of those '25 doors I am going to widen a bit for use in a '28 pickup someday. The only major difference I can spot with my naked eyes is the missing lip inside the window opening. Wasn't a deal breaker for me. My doors are missing everything inside the skin, so maybe mine were the wooden-structured '23's?

I bought a roached '27 sedan a few years ago and saved the rear side window panels, thinking they might be handy to patch in missing door chunks. I may end up using the lip from all the way around in the '23-25 doors.

Add a couple beltline-down skins from the repro guys and I'll be golden.

 

Okay, I have a pair of T doors that measure about 20" across the beltline, no wood structure in them, can you tell me what years these might be?

 

The ones i posted are 24" wide, do yours have an arc at the back side? if so they may be off a four door or they could be off a center door t. I have another set of doors that were wood structure and are off a different type car, but they look like t doors, really close in the width, height and body line.

 

I see folks are talking about fabbing doors, yet shy away from repairing original doors, Surely repairs can not be that hard if you think you have the skill to fab a whole door?

Just get one of those whole lower skins from Howell's and a junk door and off you go.
I believe they even make repro bottom inners etc.

That is my view of the world.

I got a buddy overseas who paid $1,000 a piece for a pair of good doors.
They were magic but I dont know if they were worth that to me.

 

They arc in slightly at the bottom, but it's even from front to back. There never was any wood in these doors, as far as I can tell, no nail strips or holes in them like that...they have regular window regulators in them. The door latch for the inside is located at the back of the door just inside the window jamb at the top, does that help?

 

Waddington in Australia makes a steel 29 Cab. Maybe they sell doors separately. Even if they do, it won't be cheap.

Ken

 

Here's the pics of my doors that I took today: can someone tell me what year they are?

 

They have the full metal structure, but look narrow. May be 4-door fronts. I have extra T doors, but I am always pulling in bodies without them, so don't usually sell doors. Same with model A 2-door doors. Another problem with the T coupe doors is they use different hinges on the 26 abd 27. One style is a 3 finger hinge and one isn't. I used to sell T tudor bodies with doors for like $750, but realized the doors were worth more than what I wanted for the whole car. T bodies are still cheap but include the cost of the doors. Pat.

 

Here are a couple of more pics of the same door i posted earlier, the door latch was just slightly diferent than the 26-27 t coupe door latch, although it fit and worked perfect on the later door. I was led to believe this was a 24-25 coupe door, and since the latch worked i assume it is.

This doors stampings look different than the one electrodude posted, so his may be off of a for dor? Are all the center door t's doors round at the bottom or do some have square ones?

 

They measure 20" across the beltline, so yeah, they're pretty narrow. So if they are fordor fronts do they still have value?

117Harv, the one thing that stands out being different between our doors, besides the width, is that my window regulators seem to be more toward the center of the door, and yours seem farther forward.

 

"Just get one of those whole lower skins from Howell's and a junk door and off you go."

Even if one finds a 'junk' door, it's still rare (hard to find) and expensive.
That what prompted this post.
I wouldn't bring this up if I could find a 'junk' door to start with.
r

 

Okay, I'm an idiot...the doors measured 24" across the beltline today, maybe they swelled in this humidity? ...or it could be that I just grabbed an old log tape I had the other day, looked at it today and had forgotten I had taken 4" off the end when I snapped it once

Soooo, am I correct in assuming that my doors are '24-'25 (no wood)? If so, how much are they worth roughly?

 

I talked to someone via email at roadsterute.com and they said they do sell the 28-29 pickup doors for $1000.00 each . I guess I will be fixing my twisted door somehow!

 

i am looking for a set of door latches for 26 27 both sides anybody have any forsale..

 

Bringing this back up, found this company makes a whole T coupe but for 5700.00 http://midwesthotrodsandmusclecars....d=147&osCsid=195e4247dae08250f7a410ced3827a59
I wonder if they'd go into the business of just making doors?

 

I know not everybody will like it but at one time when I wanted a pickup and did not have the correct doors.

I had a good pair of 29 model A tudor/coupe doors and a matching cowl, so I built my pickup around them.

Got some custom 1/4 panels to match the belt line and the rest was not that hard.

I know it will never be a real 29 pickup but it looked OK.

Any comments???

 

I think that your truck looks just fine fiftyv8... fine indeed.

 

was this a good deal, 1400= 26-27 t coupe no rust except a little under the deck lid. Car has title with deck lid, extremly nice body and two perfect doors that still have henry black on them.

 

If that was not a good deal I dont know what is.
If you tired of it I will take for that price plus a I'll throw in a box of beer.

Just dont part it out OK.

 

After reading through this thread I had no idea these things were so complicated... someone should write a book!
Read a comment somewhere years ago by a guy who was buying old tin. His thoughts about farm sales and missing doors was find out where the chicken coup is (or was). The door is probably still there.