I am about ready to start running brake lines, I want to use stainless steel tubing and need to double-flare the ends. I have found a couple of flaring tools that advertise that they will do the job but they are very expensive. Does anyone have any experience with this process and have recommendations for the best tools?
You do not double flair, stainless steel lines. You double flair the mild steel lines you can buy at any auto parts store. For stainless steel,you use a single flair,done with a different type of flairing tool, and a collar to keep it from splitting. Also,the flair used for stainless is 47degrees? I believe,and requires a different style of fitting.
[ QUOTE ] You do not double flair, stainless steel lines. You double flair the mild steel lines you can buy at any auto parts store. For stainless steel,you use a single flair,done with a different type of flairing tool, and a collar to keep it from splitting. Also,the flair used for stainless is 47degrees? I believe,and requires a different style of fitting. [/ QUOTE ] <font color="green">The type of flare you are talking about is called a JIC fitting and is 37 degrees. Single flare. RASHY </font>
Company named Pure makes a great kit,plenty tube and all the fittings you need.They retail for about $300. I bought mine on E-Bay for $105. nib,the dude had another one,wished I had grabbed it too,they are really nice. Had to borrow a 37 degree flaring tool (they sell for about$90) Easy to bend and cut,it was a breeze. This was the first brake line I`ve ever run that didn`t leak like **** when I first put fluid in and bled.On steel I have to run around and tighten the living **** out of everything to stop the leaks. If your building a very nice car,I recommend SS. JR... PS...All the fittings are Russel/air craft type anodydized aluminum
Say Ranger...I have been searching the web and ebay for any tool supplier/manufacturer with the name of Pure. Is the spelling correct? Thanks...
Charlieled: you might want to check out Inline tube They have got brake tools as well as some helpful tips and supplies.
Not to hijack the post, but has anyone besides me had a problem with breaking the dies used in the double flare? I just broke another one tonight! Seems if it gets a little crooked...BAM..the little ******* snaps off. Anyone make a good set of these? Bill
[ QUOTE ] Not to hijack the post, but has anyone besides me had a problem with breaking the dies used in the double flare? I just broke another one tonight! Seems if it gets a little crooked...BAM..the little ******* snaps off. Anyone make a good set of these? Bill [/ QUOTE ] What brand are you using?
<font color="green">The only flaring tools I have ever had luck with are Imperial Eastmans.$$$ What size lines are you gonna run Charlie? RASHY </font>
[ QUOTE ] Not to hijack the post, but has anyone besides me had a problem with breaking the dies used in the double flare? I just broke another one tonight! Seems if it gets a little crooked...BAM..the little ******* snaps off. Anyone make a good set of these? Bill [/ QUOTE ] Deburr the inside of the fubing before flaring, it won't break the mandrel then
[ QUOTE ] What size lines are you gonna run Charlie? [/ QUOTE ] Here's a pic of the line that runs between the front calipers. I measured about a half inch behind the flare so the 0.185 inch number may be a tad thinner than the tubing in the middle of the line under the protective coil. Looks like the decimal value will convert to 3/16, this may be metric, it's off a 1994 GM...
Double flaring 3/16 steel tube is a *****. You`ve got to have a good (not cheap-made in USA) tool.Cheap ones let the tube slip down. If you are using steel,buy varius length(3-4-5 ft) from the auto parts store and they are already flared on both ends,this should cut your flaring in half. But the Pure kit is ***S,but not cheap. Good luck..JR
[ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] What size lines are you gonna run Charlie? [/ QUOTE ] Here's a pic of the line that runs between the front calipers. I measured about a half inch behind the flare so the 0.185 inch number may be a tad thinner than the tubing in the middle of the line under the protective coil. Looks like the decimal value will convert to 3/16, this may be metric, it's off a 1994 GM... [/ QUOTE ] THAT line is a metric and has a BUBBLE flair,NOT a double flair......You might want to check the piece that line will fasten into a little bit closer.....
another attempted hijacking, I got all preflared lines for the front my truck, but I asked if I had to cut any and get them double reflared ( this was at the local napa) they told me its no longer necessary and my single flareing kit would do the job fine I didn't have to do any cutting so I never found out yet, I do have a busted line on the back and was just going to single flare it (steel line) then I spied this post so steel lines are definitely needing a double flare?
I've done a couple of stories for magazines about brake line flaring, and have talked to Inline Tube, Fine Lines, Shafers Cl***ic reproduction, Master Power Brakes and others for the info in the stories. A/N fittings are 37-degree single flare (A/N standing for Army/Navy as these were military spec.) All auto lines require a 45-degree double flare, regardless of stainless of mild steel brake lines. ALL OE brake and fuel line parts (wheel cylinders, master cylinders, fuel fittings) use a 45-degree double flare. Some aftermarket parts use a different fitting (pipe fitting, as with adjustable prop valves and Wilwood brake calipers), and will need an adapter to go from 45-degree to pipe fitting. Long before I worked for a magazine (actually, when I was 17) I bought a simple double flare kit from Snap-on. BEST money I ever spent on a truck! I've never split a flare, never cracked a die, never had a flare turn out less than perfect. (I'm not bragging--They've just always turned out well with those tools) Get a high-quality tubing cutter, and file the burrs out of the end of the tube. Other than that, follow the directions on setting the depth of the tube in the holder, how to flare it, etc. It's worked every time. I also have one of those hydraulic flaring kits from Inline Tube--I like doing it the old way better. Also, spend the money on high quality Rigid (brand) tubing benders. Don't get the "3 sizes of tubing on one bender!" tools--my Snap-on model left me dissapointed every time I used it. The Rigid benders make great bends, and the radius is like an inch (real tight bends), and they'll go 180 degrees. The results are awesome. Don't ever use Teflon tape or any kind of thread sealer on line fittings--the seal isn't made at the threads, the threads hold the flare down onto the ****** in the female br*** fitting. If you've got a leak, back the connection off and cinch it up a few times to reseat the flare on the ******. Got that from Inline, and damned if it hasn't also worked every time. Bending lines is one of my favorite things to do when building a car. -Brad
Thanks everyone for the good tips. Looks like I should be buying a plane ticket for Brad54, I know a few other guys here in SoCal who could use a clinic on running brake lines...
I've used stainless steel tubing on the last 3 or 4 projects I've been working on. You CAN double flare stainless, if you get the right stuff. I bought kits from the guy in NY state (Cl***ic Tube?) The tubing is special...it's 'double annealed' so it can take the double flare, without splitting. And it does, in most cases...I did have one or 2 split out of all I've done. I did get frustrated using ****ty flaring tools, though. Finally after doing a bit of research....and using K-D, Imperial-Eastman, etc, I bought a Rigid flaring tool. Best I've ever used. You can get them from McMaster Carr, and they can special order the double flare adapters individually, I got an extra 3/16 and 1/4 as spares. Haven't broken one yet, though! As someone said, deburring is super important for not splitting the tubing. You can also get cool carbide deburring tools from them, to take off the inner burr, that forms when cutting tubing. Most plumbing-type chamferers are too big for brake line sized tubing, and don't work well with stainless. Comes in a small case, with a regular deburring tool handle, with special cone shaped tips for cleaning out tubing. Works GREAT, even on the stainless, even on 3/16 sized lines, there is a tiny one for them! The right tools make the job much easier!
I've never had a problem busting any but the 3/16 ones. I follow the instructions to the letter and have still had two break. Guess I need to track down a Snap-On dealer and quit using cheapies. That or I could have a friend make me one on his lathe. Bill
Thought of two more things: One of the companies I spoke with for the stories recommended using a cut-off wheel in a die-grinder to cut the lines. They said this is because using a traditional tubing cutter (the ones with the little wheel that you spin around the tube) can cause the area of the cut to become work-hardened. This is one of the things that leads to the tubing splitting. I don't like the idea of a cut-off wheel for two reasons: the nasty burr a cut-off wheel always leaves, but more importantly, you can't get a straight cut--unless you make some sort of jig/fixture to ensure the wheel hits the tube at exactly 90-degrees. I've found a high-quality tubing cutter to do the job just fine. A sharp wheel is a must. (I had to buy another from Snap-on after losing the one from my kit--It was by no means a bank breaker) The little dinky Sears piece with the small jaw and a thumb screw to tighten the wheel onto the tubing isn't worth the price of s**** metal. And I don't usually dislike Sears stuff. For removing the burrs (should be done even with a good cutter), I got a cheap set of needle files from a 99-cent bin somewhere. It came with flat and tapered round files, and will fit inside the tubing. Then I just blow the filings out with an air gun. I alwasys keep an ***ortment of the files right in the kit so they're always there. -Brad
The Jalopy Journal
