That's the ugliest piston I ever seen come out of an engine, looks like a 11-1 too. Big balancer too with additional timing marks, the block doesn't appear too have any stamped info on it either. What's the plan?
That piston says that the last guy who ran that engine thought he could get away with running regular gas in it. Some good pieces (outside of the piston) to start with though.
I think that engine was "partially" tore down before you got it. Maybe had the crank and cam in it, the rods and pistons in a box. And everything sat for some time based on all the cylinder/block and crankshaft rust. You've got your work cut out for you; maybe the heads will be the saving grace. Dampener has had additional timing marks cut into it, but is that a crack in the hub? Lots of new machine work is going to be needed. Not trying to discourage you; one of my 327's was in worse shape when I tore it down 35 years ago. Somehow, I've wound up with a lot of 327 stuff, small and large journal. I am Butch/56sedandelivery. My 327, I bought for use in my FED originally. The guy said it had Enderle Injection (that he'd already sold), and was in an Fiat Topilino (it was in the still in the garage), had "big domes", and aluminum rods. Well, the rods turned out to be second stage 327 rods seriously side ground and lightened, and the pistons did had some huge domes. But, the block had to be bored, tossed the big dome pistons out; the rods were full floating and could't be used with the L-79 type 10.35:1 CR pistons I'd already bought in .040 oversize. So, Ken Liden racing engines, in Everett, Wa. provided me with some stock rods that he redid for me. The 461X heads were real; they still sit on top the engine to this day! Pinned studs, new 2.05 Manley SS intakes and exhaust valves, new springs and retainers. That engine has been in 3 of my cars now; the FED, my TRUCK as a temporary engine where it burned an exhaust valve, and a 63 Chevy II Station Wagon Street Racer. I've kept that engine, and have rebuilt it two times since the FED, where it ran a best of 9.23 @ 146 MPH @ Bremerton Raceway; pump gas, Powerglide with a T-Brake and a 4500 RPM Stall converter and a 4.10:1 rear gear. SAME engine with a cam, intake, carburetor, and distributor change wound up in my DD Truck (where it burned an exhaust valve; the things were tulipped and ground to nothing!). Now it waits to be dropped in my Sedan Delivery when/if the current 327 expires. That engine will probably live on after I have stopped living. I used to shift it at 7000 RPM in the FED, and clear the lights at 7500 RPM. If it only had more cam................................................... I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Sorry guys it's been a busy week. It is a standard bore, looks to have the better rods and none of the bearings were chewed. It had been apart before. Most of that dark crap all over everything is a mixture of oil or grease and 20 years of dirt. The block is a 66. I also got a baffled oil pan with it. The heads I think are 62 but I'll have to double check. THey have some areas of flash rust but if they check out good I'm going to have stainless valves put in, bowls cleaned up, new springs, etc. I did find a guy to repair the other 327 block but I'm not going to bother with that right now. I now have both low and high performance cranks. I'm guessing they are balanced for the type of piston used. I can't think of any other reason for different part numbers. The thought has crossed my mind to purchase aftermarket rods, or even go with a 6 inch rod if there's an off the shelf piston that will give me 11:1 or close to it. I plan on going with an L79 cam. I don't think it will be too much for a 4 speed impala with 3.36 gears but I've been wrong before. Unfortunately the balance snout is cracked. I won't deem it trash until I know for sure it's worth more as a beer can. I got everything for 75 bucks and it was 15 minutes away. Worth the gamble imo.
ALmost forgot to mention, they are 1.94's. I'll most likely keep them that way unless they have to be cut.
I've also considered purchasing some headers for this build. THere's a set of NOS Thrush coated headers that have never been installed the guy wants 300 for. I'm seriously contemplating it but man long tubes are such a pain in the ass. I have them on my 67 and I hate them. Being an AC car probably doesn't help though ha ha!
1.94 heads are not as bad as people think. I used loads of them over the years. A good refresh may be all they need, of course new springs and keepers, look the valves over closely. Have them checked for cracks.
Great Deal @ $75! Standard block, forged crank, good rods, 1.94's. That was a hot running engine at one time. Good fortune to find a 327 block that's still standard. Run all the block, head #'s. The right stuff, might be worth some bucks to a muscle car restorer.
EDIT: I didn't scroll back up far enough to see the photo with the cam gear removed. Sorry, I'm such an idiot! Can you point out how you determine core shift by sight without having the cam gear removed? I know that an offset cam bore is one indicator of core shift, but not sure what else you might be seeing? It would be a handy thing to know. Thanks!
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