Dragster ( Greek ) coupler questions

I'm looking at a Greek Coupler for a C4.
( I'd use it in a T5, but I checked the splines )

The Diff I'll use is not a regular one, so I cant find a off the shelf female coupler.

What are my options?

Cut a off the shelf coupler down and weld it to the flange on my diff?
( can the steel be cut and welded, and if so, will that mess up any heat treatment?)

Have one custom made?
( who does this, what will that cost?)

Any other ideas?
( other than the quick and dirty 1 U-joint driveshaft?)

 

Lenco can make what ever you need. JC

 

Cool...

Very expensive?

 

See if there is one available "off the shelf" that has a a smaller spline diameter, and find a machine shop that still has a shaper....

 

That would be cool, but the diff I'm using is pretty small.

Its a English axle ( Cortina, Mk1 Escort, Anglia, etc. )

 

That suggest low hp. A single u-joint would be fine.

What does the input on your diff look like ?

 

This M&W coupling was TIG welded, lives in a jet boat:
http://www.penztoy.com/coupler%20vee%20drive%20001.jpg
http://www.penztoy.com/coupler details 002.jpg
http://www.penztoy.com/coupler details 001.jpg

 

About 275HP max.

Which is on the very outer edge of what that diff will be able to take, even upgrades for strength and with hard/low grip tires and a light car.
( they are documented to live with 260 HP on road race slicks in a much heavier car )

It looks just like a 9", only smaller.


Strength wise a single u-joint would be fine.

I'm worried about minute amounts of mis alignment ( or chassis flex ) tearing the U- joint apart.

2 U-joints would solve that, but that would move the engine & gearbox foreward by about 3" .

I've thought about using 1 U-joint and removing the bearing sleeve that supports the driveshaft slider out of the gearbox, to prevent binding.

Would that solve it?

 

Is it possible to cut the pinion end off the Greek couple and then bolt it to the rear end's pinion flange? Maybe drill and tap the rear face of the coupler to match the bolt circle on the pinion flange.

Roo

 

Try Mark Williams also.
He makes one for a Quick Change, I bet a C4 is more common than that but Cortina???

 

I'd be worried about your misalignment/flex situation putting side load on the rear mainshaft bearing. How about a Roto-Flex? Yeah, I know what you're thinking, but they are now installed in many cars with a lot more than 275hp... and a lot more weight.

 

How about two sprockets welded to the yokes (one to each yoke) then use a dubble roller chain to connect them. I have seen this on a tripple big block engine pulling tractor worked for them.

 

Yeay, I've thought about the rotoflex too.
Or a chain coupling.

Or the flex joint out of a Fiat 850.
( more compact than a rotoflex)

 

I like the Greek coupler because its proven, way overbuilt, compact, light, and ( for the off the shelf parts ) reasonably priced.

And I dont want this thing to come apart.
I'll be sitting really close to it...

 

What is the clear distance between point A and point B ?
Tail shaft and pinion are on the same plane?

.

 

As short as possible, less length means more engine setback.

Yes, I will make them at the same plane.

 

I have worked with M/W before and had them make a 40 spline 8 3/4 spool for about $60 more than standard. Problem was I had to wait till they ran the batch again

 

That would work...

How long was the wait?

A couple of months?

 

Unfortunatly they had just ran a batch and it took a year, But I was in no hurry.

Just checked on M/W site and they have C4 (MALE)#40340
They also offer a (female) blank thats not heatreated #400340

 

Awesome. That may solve it.

Thanks for all the Info, guys.