I'm keeping the 289 in the 57 wagon but the old flightomatic has to go. I'd really like to swap in a manual trans in it. Can you put up some picts of the swap you have planned if it's not too late?
Hey Zeke, Another option is to get a 3 spd std with OD for that wagon. Those cars were available from the factory with that combination, and it was farily commmon. It shouldn't be too hard to find a transmission and they make a really nice driveable combination. The transmission is the same from 51 to 64 for all V8 applications. You can't use one out of a 6 because the the input shaft is different. LMK if you need more info. Evan
The 3 spd overdrive's or ok, but the are really weak. I don't have any pics yet of the afformentioned swap, but its gonna happen this summer. After I get home from class today I'll post what I know, but I gotta run right now.... Jake
Jake, Isn't it just a spacer and pilot bushing? I thought the bolt pattern was the same as my 4sp. Are you doing the S-10 tailshaft trick too? TZ
Ok guys, there are a few ways to do this, but I'll outline the process I'm going to use. Keep in mind that this is all theoretical right now, as I haven't actually done it yet. Anyway...here it is 1. Find a Studebaker truck bellhousing and 11 inch fly wheel. The flywheel weighs the exact same as a car flywheel but it is 11 inches instead of 9 3/4. Then, find a ford T-5. I guess you could use an S-10 T-5 but I didn't. Then take Them both to the machine shop and have them enlarge the hole in the bellhousing to fit the T-5 collar, then have 'em drill the bell housing for the T-5. If you use a smaller car bellhousing they will have to do some serious modification to it to make the mounting surface big enough for the T-5 to bolt to. 2. Now you have to take the collar for the T-5 and have it shortened to the same length as the Stude one. Then it has to be sleeved and turned down so that the O.D. is the same as the Stude collar. 3. Now, go to Car Quest and order an 11" cobra mustang clutch disk and an 11" GM Diaphram pressure plate. I'm pretty sure that you have to use a diaphram pressure plate becuase it is lower in profile that a 3 finger pressure plate and you need the extra room because the T-5 collar doesn't allow as much throw-out bearing movement. You will still use the stock Stude throw-out bearing. Make sure you get the diaphram pressure plate that can be used with a flat throw-out bearing in stead of the one meant for a round surfaced throw-out bearing. 4. Now you have to make a pilot bushing. This is easy. It has to go into the stude crank, then come out and be large enough for the T-5 shaft to slide into and it needs to extend about .28 inches beyond the crank. It can be brass, bronze or whatever, even steel is ok. 5. You'll have to make a bracket for the clutch linkage, as the old linkage had a bracket that mounted on the transmission. 6. Then you'll have to do the whole drive shaft shortening routine...but I trust yall can figure that out. 7. As for the shifter, it is about 19.5 inces behind the mounting surface of the******* and shouldn't be a problem, I know it will work fin in my car. I think thas all, if I missed anything let me know. I've spent a lot of time figuring all this***** out. My******* and bellhousing are at the machine shop right now being fitted to each other. I'll install it this summer so I can kick the***** out of Kartbreaker's "Fauxdster"(tm)at the Day of the Drags and show everyone that grandma's wagon can really run....
hummmm.jakeyboy..isnt it nice of your dad to explain the "shiftybox"(as you like to call it)to you the way hes gonna build it for you.just like the rest of the car.WhOOp WhOOP.
Hmmm [ QUOTE ] B. The Ford Top loader: These are very strong trannies which have a torque rating on the order of 450 Ibs-ft. There are two versions, a wide ratio (2.78/1.93/1.36/1.00) and a close ratio (2.32/1.69/1.29/1.00). Fortunately, the wide ratio is more common. <font color="red"> Some of these have two bolt patterns, so they could be bolted to several different models, and one of those bolt patterns fits the Stude exactly! </font> The input spline is slightly different from the Stude, so you have to use a Ford clutch disc, and the pilot is .668 instead of .750, so you have to put a sleeve on the pilot journal. Also, the input shaft housing is slightly different, but the four bolts that hold it onto the box are the same pattern as though Stude so you may be able to simply bolt on the Stude housing and retain the Stude clutch release bearing. I can't swear to this, however, so you will need to actually check the internal shapes to see if it will fit or can be easily machined to fit. Otherwise, you will have to find a different clutch release bearing that will work and bore out the bell housing hole to 4.850. Other top loaders may have only one bolt pattern which may not be the same as Stude, however, the gearbox mounting ears are wide enough that you should be able to drill them to the Stude pattern. Two other functional differences are the distance from the mounting face of the gearbox to the center of the shifter (the Stude is 17-1/2" and the top loader is about 2"longer, so the shifter will sit back further in the car, but 2" probably isn't critical), and the length of the gearbox, which I didn't carefully measure, but it is about 2", so you will likely have to shorten or change the drive shaft. The Ford output yoke slider U-joint dimensions are the same as the output yoke slider U-joint on my T10, so the old U-joint "should" be the same and interchangeable [/ QUOTE ] Anyone have an idea which bolt pattern that is?
Where did you find that? my factory 4sp is a Borg Warner T-10, the main shaft is different than GM though. I thought the GM 5sp had the same bolt pattern as the T-10 on the ears. TZ
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