Now I'm curious, how is this done at home with minimal tools? I am sick of the small 5 on 4" bolt pattern in my valiant and would like to put some decent rims on it(maybe americans or cragers). Now do you use a drrum with the correct pattern as a guide to drill with or do you lay it out with a compass or what? Any special bits to use(axles are pretty hard)any suggestions, Thanks. -Jesse
In my opinion, that's NOT a DIY job. I try to do everything myself, but bolt patterns reguire machine shop equipment. It will cost alot more to replace the*******ed up parts than what a machine shop would charge to do the job correctly.
What if you didn't get it EXACTLY on center. It would feel like my Ford did that day with the driveshaft rattling around underneath.
See thats my point, how is it done so it wont "hop" while drivin down the road. I have acess to machine shop tools but want to know how is the proper way to do it. Also, how many people have done it/had it done? -Jesse
The size of the holes is determined by the diameter of the shank on the new wheel studs.Doing the fronts is easy enough on a milling machine with a digital readout.The rears could be a******.Machineshop time.
Greasy - i just had it this done on my 61 chevy truck. I had a machinist do it with his lathe. charged me $80 Process is to plug the stud holes and machine flat, then lay out the circle diameter, then calculate the spacing by using our ole high school friend geometry - ie divide 360 degrees of a circle by 5 = 72 degrees then divide by 2 to the center of the angle to get a right angle = 36 degrees. Now take half the bolt circle to get your triangles hypotenuse(sp) the sine of 36 degrees (0.5878) multiplied by the hyp will give you half the chord distance then multiply by 2 to get the distance between bolt holes. to find a 5"BC 5 lug sine of 36 = 0.5878 x 2.5" x 2 = 2.94" shortened 5 lug = 0.5878 x BC = dist between bolts. This looks correct but would like someone to verify for me. Thanks Brian
Why not just quit after figuring out 72 degrees - put it on a rotary table and drill 'em! All that other stuff hurts my head!
[ QUOTE ] This looks correct but would like someone to verify for me. [/ QUOTE ] Sorry,I left my brain at work.
Flat Earnie has got it. 1. Mount a rotary table on a verticle mill. 2.Move the mill table so the quill is centered over the rotary table. 3. Mount the hub centered on the rotary table. 4. Move mill table in either the X or Y direction 1/2 the bolt circle. 5. Drill your 1st hole. 6. Rotate rotary table 72 degrees (for 5 bolt pattern). 7. Drill 2nd hole. 8. repeat 3 more times and your done. As stated, don't try this with a yard stick and a hand held drill. Frank
Thats some good info. I am probably going to do just the fronts becuase Santa Claus is bringin me an 8 3/4 with the 4 1/2" bolt pattern this year -Jesse
Yep...rotary table is the way I'd do it. Fast easy and accurate if ya set it up right. Did a set of '33 Plymouth hubs this way...worked real good.
Dude...... If you are just going to do the FRONTS,why not just swap out the drums for something a little bit newer and little bit bigger? Like 10 inch drums from a later Dart/Duster? Backing plates,brakes and all.....That is a bolt in swap. No drilling required. PLUS you get more stopping power..........
I can't find the 10 inchers, or 10's with the big bolt pattern. Seems as if people with Mopar parts horde them more here in the south west, it's really hard to find parts or at least resonably priced parts. -Jesse