Technical Drive Train Resuscitation Basics

I'll check that later today, fingers crossed it's just the lifter!

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Well, it's been a while since I had a need to play with the old Corn Binder but I ran across a couple issues that sort of fit the intent of this thread so I thought someone might gain something if I shared them. The ***le of this chapter should be "Don't overlook the obvious".
I had shown everyone I know how cool the old girl was months ago so I hadn't really needed to start her up for a couple months, and every time I tried it took more and more effort to get her to run. I noticed the fuel pump had started to leak out the vent and figured I probably had a piece of pump diaphragm stuck in the idle circuit in the old Rochester I scabbed together so I pulled it and cleaned it out again, which didn't help. I finally got desperate when another project followed me home and I tried to get the Binder into the shop to set the Es*** on the flat bed. Try as I might, I could not get the old girl to run long enough to get it done and had to use the loader on the tractor to move the body.



Convinced the trouble was fuel after confirming all the ignition parts were still good, I got on line and found a nice man on that auction site with a NOS Stromberg BXOV-2 that looked close enough to my original with the broken throttle shaft to make me think I could adapt it to the Binder. We negotiated a price and it arrived a few days ago. I also talked to the nice folks at "Then and Now Auto" out in M***achusetts and bought a rebuild kit for the AC model B fuel pump. I got all the parts ***embled on the bench and then went out yesterday morning in the dark, before the hornets were awake, and started the install.
This is the part where I should have looked closer first. The fuel pump was no choice, the old brittle diaphragm had torn after I started running it. I decided the hard start/no idle MAY have been caused by a vacuum leak and I knew the old stock manifolds had some visible cracks, but none that I could see had changed between gettin it running originally and now. So with the carburetor off the manifold I used my pen light all around the intake manifold to see if I could see any light down the bore of the manifold. Nothing. Got my inspection mirror and looked all over the runners. Nothing. Then I looked down the bore to see if the floor had cracked where the intake and exhaust bolt together. Nothing. But wait, what's that extra port in the intake bore for?



That will make it hard to start! I am just guessing that wasn't there when I first got her running as it would start and idle with hardly any effort so all that missing metal must have been just hanging there and the old Green Diamond has ingested and hopefully coughed out about a nickel's worth of cast iron.



I really wanted to use the old girl a little, and I'd been casually looking for donor parts with no luck so I figured I either had to fix the hole or she was done. I didn't want to try and remove the manifold either as I know from experience that almost never goes well on something this old, so I put on the old "thinking cap" and started wandering around the shop looking for options. I thought maybe a thin wall 1.5" tube might do the trick but all I had was a painted piece of a swing set that was close, and it didn't fit and was real thin and rusty. Then it hit me! Roll up a piece of stainless, I had some 20 gage 304 in the pile so here we go.



A quick zip with the plasma cutter and a little clean up with a flap wheel and I have a basic shape. The tail is to go down the outside face of the bore and hold the sleeve up out of the manifold runners just in case it wants to slip down the bore over time. For the "math challenged" the width of the sleeve before you roll it needs to be the final bore diameter (minus a pinch) times Pi (3.1415 something). In this case the bore was about 1.5", times Pi is about 4.625" so I cut it about 4.5" wide.



I was able to hand roll it over a piece of 1" pipe and then hammer some radius into the tail so it fit down the hole. All ready to tap into place.



And installed.

The sleeve certainly isn't a permanent solution but it apparently seals up enough of the leak to work. The old girl fires right up before she makes a full revolution again and idles at about 400 rpm, and the new Stromberg looks great! Probably could have made the Rochester work if I had just been paying attention, But good training is never free.


And I still haven't gotten tired of looking at her. Ain't she sweet!

 

Great barn yard fix. Looks good last a long time.

 

Love them old Binders

 

I love your old Harvester! The “fix” you made was genius, that looks like something my Dad would have made up. It’s my opinion (you know opinions are like!) that the old Binders do not get any love or respect.


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They were worked like a borrowed Mule

 

@Truckdoctor Andy "old Binders do not get any love or respect" was true for decades, until there weren't any new ones any more. But nobody did art deco trucks better and some of us old farts sort of like them now days.
I hear tell there are a couple young bucks that pine for the pretty ones as well. I still have this one on the "never sell" list because of my youngest girl and her hubby.

 

My son and I are getting ready to swap a 350 Chevy into his 1963 C1100. It has a non running 266, and 266 parts are hard to come by nowadays. It should make a neat shop truck. I’ll post some pics when we get started.


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I'll be watching for the build thread!
In the mean time, who has a good story to tell about making something from a hopeless pile that might revive the intent of this thread?

 

Think about the fix on the Binder and you see where Hot Rodders came from.

 

Love that 'Binder - still ***embling the FAB3 OHV in my '35. Interesting motor to say the least!