I mated my 348 to the turbo 400, and set it between the rails of my A chassis. I've got the engine pretty much where I want it, however the tranny is up against the mid crossmember. My diff is kicked up 3 degrees, and the trans sits 3-4 degrees but is 1" lower than the diff......fuck fuck fuck. I looks like I may have to notch out my crossmember, unless somebody has some ideas[/IMG]
Driveline angles need to be COMPLIMENTARY - or in another words THE SAME - it DOESN"T MATTER if they are + or - so if the diff was kicked DOWN 3 deg - it would be the same (in this case as having it 3 deg up). Let the shit storm begin..........
The problem is I have the diff is up 3 degrees, and the tranny is down, it is also an inch lower than the pinion. I won't have room to kick the tranny up, 'cause that will really kick my engine down
I'm not saying that -since you have crossmember clearance issues I was thinking the pinion to go DOWN. I was thinking pitching the pinion DOWN would help with the 1" offset you had mentioned. Or am I picturing this backwards in my head???? Exaggerated: This: \___________/ Instead of: ____________/ /
I tried to post a pic, I guess I'll need a lesson for that. It appears that i will need to notch the crossmember. I played with the engine today, and lowered the front of it, and came within 3/4 of an inch difference. I'll play with it some more, and try to post some pics.
My diff is higher then my tranny but the tranny is still down 3 deg's and the pinion is up 3 deg's.Off setting angles cancel out for no vibration.Engine centerline must be parrellel with the pinion centerline , centered in the rails. Front and rear. Or offet , but must be parellel. they don't have to be inline with each other , I have a 1" offset pinion. Which is not a problem.pmust be I'm sorry for the spelling ,I can't get my delete button to work and can't post any links for you. But there are links at the HOTRODDERS.com site that deytail this. Good luck.
Please just read everything here. You don't have nearly as much trouble as you think you do. http://www.iedls.com/guide.html
If your engine/trans is pointed down 2-3-4 degrees and the pinion is pointed up 2-3-4 degrees that is fine. It doesn't mean doo-dah which is higher, they can even be slightly offset L or R from each other as long as the two centerlines, outout shaft and pinion shaft, are parallel or close and the angularity doesn't exceed the u-joint working conditions.
The rear end pinion and motor do NOT have to be parallel. YES that IS the conventional method, but not the ONLY WAY. What you MUST HAVE is complimentary angles- THAT is what cancel's out the variation in driveshaft acceleration/deceleration based on ujoint operating angles.
Thanks for the responses, I wondered if I could run the tranny lower than the pinion. I gonna go for it
I haven't welded the engine mounts in yet. I may have to go forward, or clearance the crossmember. Or I may cut that fucker out, and build a X brace. I am hoping that I don't need to go that route. I have 3" from the waterpump to the rad, which I hope is enough room for an electric fan.
Should get in put from "A" guys, not sure whats going on there? can you drop your motor mounts lower, cut it out, notch it, flip it, raise it, etc...?
I'll probably try dropping the motor. I have plenty of room under the oil pan, and I could use some more room at the firewall to get the dizzy out. Once I get this dealt with, then I can take the engine apart and finish some machine work, and stuff.