So, what type of driveline swaps can be done into a 41-48 Ford sedan? What does one do to overcome the obstacle of the closed driveline? I was maybe thinking of trying to use a newer ford 300 ci six, but not sure on length and its just thinking process at this point, without the car in my yard. For the most part, I think swapping in a ford flatty V8 is out due to cost and not being able to find decent cores around here locally. Id appreciate some real world thoughts here guys. I'm a Studebaker man for so long I don't know much else.
sadly, changing out the drivetrain will most likely mean a rear axle swap out too. I am undergoing a 302 into my '47, but I have already done the rear suspension change to parallel leaves and a 9 inch http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=421572
I did a '47 coupe in recent years and stayed with a flathead but was not satisfied with the results for the effort and expense of building it. I did change to an open driveline however. I, too, used parallel leaf springs on the rear with an 8" ford mustang axle. In my case, I used a '49/'50 Merc ****** because I had it, it was open drive and it bolted up to the flatty. Almost any stick shift will fit the Ford X member frame with minimal alterations for a trans mount. Most automatics require some clearancing and some just wont fit at all unless the X member is radically altered. Ford C4, Gm TH350 and 2004R are potential candidates. Since you are apparently (refreshingly) open minded about powerplant, the Jeep 4.0 six is one hell of an engine and the AW4 (Aisin-Warner) automatic is very durable, very narrow pan (to clear the X member) and is a 4 spd/OD and is not computer operated. The engine is Sequential Fuel Injection and stand alone control systems are available from the off-road crowd and perhaps other sources. They also can be converted to carbs easily and some had disributors, later versions coil packs. Manual trans are 5 speed and rugged. The 300 Ford six is a great engine, but maybe a bit long for the '46/'48. Weight of flatty.......about 600 pounds, trans varies but would think flywheel/clutch/****** another 175 to 200. Regards, Ray
speedway sells a kit to make the rear end an open drive shaft , then you need to split the rear bones ,!!! the most trouble i have had has been with the rear trans mount ,,, ch***isengineeringinc is a good place to start ................
The rear "bones" are not sufficiently strong to control the rear axle after the torque tube is gone. All they do in the stock application is transfer shock loads from the rear wheels to the stronger torque tube. You could convert the stock rear end to open drive, as suggested, but would need fabricate or adapt different controls arms. With all that effort it is far easier to change rear ends and add parallel leafs. Ch***is Engineering has that kit too. In addition, a newer rear end will have better and less expensive brakes.
If your a Studebaker man then you'll know they just don't come much better. A well 'built' 259-304 Stude V-8 with a 4 or 5 speed (stick or Auto) is fully capable of making any 41-48 Ford haul-***. In my view, a cl***ic swap. Dean Moon (the founder of MOON Equipment Co.) swapped a hot Studebaker V-8 into his '34 Ford way back in the early '50s, so it ain't rocket science, its tradition.
He is right about that x member. my car was already clipped when I got it and they had just hacked the x out, so I boxed the fram and put in a ne universal design X member. My car has the same ol 350/350 into a pontiac disk rear hung on parellel leafs... sort of a ******* by local standards on here but the reliability and fun make up for that
I have a 302, C4 and a 8 inch rear with parallel leafs in my 48. Ch***is Engineering kit for the rear - trouble free. If you have the center of the X member that is riveted in, there is a trans mount kit/strengthing kit for it that bolts in after removing the riveted section. Makes it much easier to service.
You can gain 4" of room in the front of the engine bay if you use the 6 cylinder radiator.It is not as wide as the V-8 one.and it will cool just about anything. I don't have a problem cooling my 400 chevy small block with this set up. If you use a small block chevy you need to rework the crossmember or use an electric fuel pump.(this is no biggy,just a heads up for you. You can not use a 700r4,no room in the X member,but a 200 will go with a lot of cutting and rebuilding of the X member. Memory is a ***** but I think I used bronco ll springs in the rear,and got the hangers off a chrysler 5th ave(mid 80s). It worked out nice. If you keep the axle in the front you need to split the bones,but speedway sells a kit to get you going on that. good luck with it. Russ
My father had a '48 Ford coupe years ago - first hot rod I ever worked on! First build was with the stock flathead, but since it was a frequent driver various headaches drove us to update. We chose a 300 hp Chevy 400, bolted to the original 3-speed trans with a vintage adapter plate (speedway now sells 'em). You can also buy a cradle engine mount that uses the original ford engine mount locations - the cradle bolts to the front of the block. It was a nice set up, very dependable...and could burn rubber from a dead stop in 2nd!! (Not recommended...but you could!). There are adapters for a wide range of other engines. We had the original radiator re-cored and the excess water necks blocked off in the upper and lower tanks.
See my thread here. It is really very easy to do and makes a great riding rear suspension. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=317513
I actually had a 41 Ford that I'd almost forgotten about. I bought it from a friend of mine in about 1970 or 71. The car had some cool history, the licsense plate was a Calif plate with the number MGM-461, found out it was used as one of the cars in the line of cars during the "chicken" race in Rebel without a cause,The car belonged to MGM studios, or so the story goes, anyway, I dropped in a 289/4-speed out of a 66 Mustang and used a 57 Chevy station wagon rear end. Sold it before I ever did much else with it, but the engine/trans/rear end swap was really pretty easy. Good luck with yours.
Hello, I know this is an old thread but what will I need to swap in a sbc in my 41? Been looking at speedway but not sure of what exact parts I need for motor mounts and so forth. I will be using a th350 as well as a different rear, not sure if I want a Ford 8.8 or gm 10 bolt yet. With the 8.8 being off center pinion and one axle longer than the other it feels like a gm may be the easiest route. Thanks! (I'm brand new here, still trying to figure this site out so please bear with me)
Literally any drive line could be swapped in. Some are easier than others. You could follow the crowd. And just fit a bland but functional sbf or sbc and auto like everyone else. Or you could make it way cool. You say your a studebaker guy. Why not get an early studebaker V8 with a 3 speed manual with overdrive. Find some old speed equipment for the engine. Use the stock column shift and old style steel wheels. Lowered and you have an extremely cool 50s style high school hot rod.
Go here. If necessary, call them. They make their parts. Engine mounts: https://www.peteandjakes.com/partslist/?cat=15
HAMB member: https://www.weedetrstreetrod.com/ecommerce/catalogsearch/result/index/?p=1&q=engine+mounts
Years ago I had a 48 2dr with a 58 Pontiac engine 57 Chevy 3 speed transmission,rear end and springs I also used the wiring harness and gauges from a 58 Pontiac. I have many times wished I had kept it Doug
The Jalopy Journal
