Driveshaft, or lack thereof?

I'm gonna ask questions on a lot of parts. Can I run just a transmission yoke to the rear end yoke(?) coupled with a universal joint?

 

Now that I'm thinking about it, I guess the other part of the question would be does the engine need to lean?

 

If you can find a cv joint, use it. I have seen an aluminum one at a salvage, and did not think of it at that time, I regret that. The only thing about seting it upright is the ****** mount, and that should not be a problem with the centering hole for the trans, you could make new bolt holes, weld on aluminum blocks or ears, and turn it upright. Then the only problems are the angle of the intake surface, and the pan can be modified, you need more oil volume anyway. Joe

 

If you are thinking about using just a "U" joint at the ****** to rearend. You better be pretty short.. Cause there will be very little leg room left. With the firewall behind the engine,, Second thought, You must be thinking of a rear engine car...

 

With our short ******, we will end up with a driveshaft somewhere around 14" long.

 

Will work if you have a rigid-mounted rear end. CV is the way to go. peace

 

Nope, not a RED, but legroom won't be a problem and I'm 6-feet tall.

 

Yep, rigid rear end. Alright, I'll be looking for a CV joint. Any tips on vehicles?

After looking at the Winged Express and while I was driving home, I'm thinking I may raise and tilt the engine, and rotate the pumpkin up to line them up. That little Falcon six will look mean like that .

 

U-joint's exactly what we're doing on the middie. We're using the stock slip collar and u-joint on a shortened box but it'd work just as well on a normal full length one.

Rigid rear and hard industrial bisquits for the engine/gearbox mounts, for that iota of slop to keep from having to line'em up to NASA specs.

Photos at Flick'r in my sig links.

 

I should have reviewed those pictures sooner. I like the shortened transmission. How is the front end holding up? You drilled the H out of the I-beam! Where might I find some similar carbs?

 

I'm almost 6' tall, My drive shaft is just over 13" long, Using a Muncie 4 speed (Not shortened) and I fold up with my knees up pretty far..My firewall to roll bar length is a little over 40" sure could use at least a couple of more for comfort..Don't make your drivers compartment to small...

 

Front's holding up fine, I get asked about that from time to time. The short version is that I only removed material in structural directions that I wouldn't be needing in the new application. I'm using the parts quite differently than Ford did.

Better carbs for the purpose (and far easier to find & build) would be the larger SUs from Volvos, with the seperate float bowls. These would already be close to the period we're representing, and nearly identical in operation actually.
Mine (integrated float bowl) were from late model cars and had to be tortured a fair bit to "back date" 'em to period operation.

I have to say I'm quite curious about what engine/ch***is layout you're building. Some of your comments could be interpreted, shall we say, creatively?

 

Let's just say I didn't want to go with the usual HA/GR form. It's not radical, but it should look different.

 

What era Volvo would have these, and what model number or such for the carbs?

Thanks,
Kurt

 

I'll have to dig out my ref's and do a bit of homework on that one. Perhaps Tom and others'll chime in with subjective data in the mean time.

 

Most all 60's and 70's vintage Volvo used them. HS 6 SUs are what we are using.

 

6' tall? With a 13" "driveshaft"?
OK ****, now you're sounding Texan ......


Yep, ****'s car's actually 3" longer on its wheelbase than our middie, and less comfortable.

 

Hey Rickardo.. Do ya want to know what name I use in the movies.??? OH!! Never mind...BWHaaaaahaa

 

Why would you want to be called "OH!! Never mind"??