I'm one that tryed too keep parts like drive shafts around. Always cut an welded my own for both hot rods,customs an racecars. Over the years done a fair number of them. One or two even became handy as the right size free tubing ,for fab of custom log type 6x2 intake an years later same trick for a 4x2 intake I made.
Usually c-clamp both u joint faces down to a steel plate or a steel angle face, and tack the tube to flange.
Mine's a Chevy Trans (started out PG and switched to T-350), Ford driveshaft, and Ford (8") rear. All U-joint dimensions were identical.
i just swopped a '94 chevy od tranny and motor into a '55 chevy pickup and the '55 driveshaft fit..........gotta love a chevy.
I only use Chevy motors and transmissions so this may not apply to other makes. There are several different lengths of GM trans yokes and this enables me to swap them around and use a junkyard shaft that might be 3/4 or so too long or too short by changing the slip yoke. Also use the combination joints to use Ford etc shafts with Gm trans and rears. I have never bought or had a shaft shortened. If you live in the 'sticks' this is necessary !! Later Bill
This thread is timely as I need a shaft for my hot rod soon. I had been considering a Speedway job but I'll see what Fastshafts can do. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
A few years back we had a brush fire in our neighborhood a neighbors barn was close to catching fire! I was helping a volunteer fireman rake pine straw and leaves away for a fire break when there was a loud explosion. After the dust and crap settled we saw that a drive shaft had exploded! This thing looked to have some type of corrugated material in it? Maybe cardboard, don't know what type of shaft it was. Moral of this story is be careful if you cut into one with a torch I always saw mine.
After years of cutting down used drive shafts I got set up as a dealer for Inland drive shafts and have never looked back. A new 36-40 inch 2.5 inch drive shaft with joints and yoke for one of my 32 chassis around 250.00. It's nice to be able to paint and install and not fight rust and corrosion or have to haul one to the sandblaster for cleaning. Also there's no salvage yards left around here. I was told they put cardboard inside to absorb the harmonics?
Dont know about the harmonics, but sure made one hell of a bang split that shaft wide open for about 12 inches.
I used to do them for the stock cars myself and they always worked well. I needed one for my '59 Ford and was looking for junkyard pieces to modify, or have modified. I took my measurements to a local shop, plus my front Muncie yoke. $300 and 2 days later I had a perfect specimen using all Spicer and Neapco components.
There is a Car Quest u-joint catalog available online in a PDF format, everything you wanted to know about them and a good cross reference section in the back.
Took the words right out of my mouth! I just called Summit and for about 200 bucks I had a brand new, no-nonsense, balanced shaft, joints and trans yoke, the next day. End of story!
I had no idea Summit carried driveshafts!! Even a Fast Shaft retailer! Thanks for the heads up! Sent from my telephonamajog...
as Krylon32, Montanal and el scotto seam to agree that new driveshafts are the way to go the days of me messing with an old rusty driveshaft are over
Oh come on now... where’s the hot roddin’ in ordering a part[emoji6] Just ribbin’ ya Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Turbo 350 to a Ford 8" in the 40, I supplied the new tranny yoke and the driveline shop supplied the rest a little over a year ago $340. All new yokes/tubing/ujoints/balanced
We have a driveline specialty shop here in Langley that deals with the large truck industry.I have had many shafts cut down to size and never a problem. They take your used shaft, blast it, shorten it, reassembled with new u-joints, balanced, painted black, ready to install A little over $150.00
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