What's goin on ? My question is I bought a 8.8 rear end out of a explorer and I want to use my stock driveshaft but the yolk that bolts to the RE isn't the same as my 66 f100 Driveshaft . Is there a adapter out there somewhere that you guys know of ?
Measure your drive shaft. Write this down. Cut the F100 end off, weld the Explorer end on making sure you have the same length you started. You don't usually need to have it balanced. Just make sure the end is straight and weld smoothly all around. If it does seem out of balance put drive shaft in a horse trough or your bathtub. Rotate and add weight where needed. Best doing this when your wife isn't taking a bath!
the first thing you do is figure out what u-joint the `66 ford f100 uses. then you figures out what u-joint the 8.8 rear uses. then you look in the book and get a u-joint that combines the two sizes any auto parts store should have or be able to get it....the trick is figuring out what it is
I used an explorer rear end in mine and the width for the u joint was only 3 1/8. I found a f-150 8.8 yolk that bolts up the same and 3 5/8" wide which matched up the width to what I had already and easier to find a ujoint.
maybe you could tell us what's different? is it the same shape? or is it a flat flange? or what? pictures help...so do measurements.
On the new rearend the yolk Is round and flat . The old driveshaft and the rearend is the old school type connected with just the u joint and little u bolts.
I need to go from the new style rearend with the flat style yolk to the old school 66 f100 drive shaft .
Welcome to the world of Ford drivelines. Seems like they never made any two the same. There are different bearing diameters, different cross lengths, different yokes and with an Explorer, you could be getting into metrics. I've even had to buy two u-joints and switch caps. Most of today's parts stores won't be able to help you find anything that isn't stock. A company that repairs driveshafts will be more helpful or you can measure and check online catalogs for u-joint dimensions. Cutting and welding is a possibility and is easier to do if the shaft sizes are close to the same. If you have a driveshaft shop close by you might want to check to see what it would cost to have them do it.
I wanna give you guy a big round of applause . I've joined some other sites recently and help me lord ... If I wanna know something I just create a post a waLa 15 people ring in on it none of this waiting three days for one response .. Thanks fellas greatly appreciated I think I found something that's going to work ..
You can use the rear adapter flange off of a stock Explorer driveshaft, i believe it is designed to use a 1330 u-joint. If you need to buy a new adapter flange, it's ****er# 2-2-1379. Your '66 Ford driveshaft probably takes a 1310 u-joint, so you will likely need a 1310/1330 conversion joint to mate up the two, that's ****er# 5-134X.
Or: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p376_1310_series_flange_yoke_fits_ford_8.8_inch_rear_ends_large_b.html Or: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p268_1310_series_flange_yoke_fits_ford_7.5_and_8.8_inch_rear_ends.html You will need to measure your u-joint size AND the bolt pattern size on your companion flange. Oh, and not to be a pedant, a yolk is the center of an egg. What you are looking for is a YOKE.
Basically you need to find out what size is on the driveline side, and what size is on the new axle side. A parts catalog should show you the various sizes that the vehicle came with, measure what you got and go from their. Don't worry about the different styles of yolk, they all do the same thing, its only the ujoint sizes are are different. This link should give you a good idea of how to find the info that you need http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm Or just find a good driveling shop and go in with your measurements and they should be able to hook you up.
All the late 8.8s use a flat flange. These come in different sizes - a smaller one for 1310-size U-joints (Mustangs, Thunderbirds/Mark VIIIs, Explorers, etc.) and a larger one for 1330 U-joints (Crown Vics and F150s) and there might be others on very recent cars I'm not familiar with. If anyone cares I've got a late GT500 driveshaft here that's a two-piece shaft with a Rzeppa-type CV just like a BMW at the rear (and a big plunge-type CV in the middle that looks like it's right out of a Porsche 993TT rear axle), might be the trick for pinion-angle issues on torque arm and truckarm rearends... I'm ***uming you need the mating bolt-on yoke into which the U-joint cups press, that's probably hanging on the rear of the driveshaft of the Explorer that axle came out of. Old Fords used U-bolts and the caps fit between tabs on the rearend yoke, but on the 8.8s the caps press into the bolt-on yoke and are retained by C-clips on the inside. You might also find your driveshaft length is wrong with the new rear. And it may not matter in your application (or maybe it's a good thing...) but that Explorer rearend has a slightly offset pumpkin.
Did you get the 8.8 driveshaft flange that bolts to the pinion flange? He's what I put together, still using the yolk that would have come with the GM driveshaft and had to shorten it about 1". I set it up for runout with the driveshaft installed and a dial indicator, ended up with .015" and no vibration.
The Explorer flange on mine had 2 sets of threaded holes. One is metric threads and the other is 7/16-14. Metrc bolts fit the yoke flange with a closer fit. Ford dealers have them.
He's not being a jack***. You simply cannot do a discrete keyword search on a word that you have misspelled, and expect to find much of any acceptable results. Spelling does count. Spell-check will not fix this, as it is not just a misspelling, but a word (wrong, but correctly spelled), subs***uted for the correct word. Close enough is not close enough, in this case.
The Jalopy Journal
