Dropped & drilled axle identification...

Hi, yes another "who dropped my axle?" thread.

I bought this as a standard 32 (not heavy) Mor-Drop axle but a few private chats have informed me that may not be the case and that it looks like an Ed "Axle" Stewart's (D'ago) drop. If the pictures below don't tell the full story let me know and I can go out and measure or take a close up of anything you want to see.

The axle looks quite new or is very clean. I'm afraid I'm still learning about axles (a fascinating study) so if anyone has any guesses I'd like to hear them. It looks like someone started smoothing it out but stopped and the holes look freshly drilled.

There are more pics in my gallery... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=16802

Thanks.

 

Any ideas from the Friday night crowd?

 

1/2 the country is still at work

 

The other half is out looking for work.

 

Thanks for the tip.

My trusty iPhone world clock app tells me that the East coast has already settled down with for their Friday night H.A.M.B. fix - except for those who are lucky enough to have their dropped and drilled axles attached to a working vehicle which they are driving right now that is.

 

Your fellow countrymen have put together a pretty useful thread on identifying axles.

http://www.ozrodders.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=13788&sid=0218341c0143e5492733db12dd1912a8

The holes don't mean much as far as Id except they look cool. 3/4 inch holes are probably pretty common and wouldn't id any specific shop.It's currently 15:58 here on the west coast and it's Friday so a lot of the guys won't be hitting the board this evening.

 

If a person has dropped their own 33/36 axle before, you notice things on other guys drops...

The top bend is unusual on your axle. "Both" sides have sort of an identical kink. I would think that is the only thing that could help ID it to a certain shop...if it was done by a shop.

Just my opinion, but I don't think it was the first axle that guy did. It is too symetrical to be a first timer. I could be wrong, but that's what I think. One reason is that it looks like whomever did it was trying to keep the red spot as far away from the king pin hole as possible..so he may have stretched the pin holes on his first axle.

I am going to drop my 2nd 33/36 this weekend if I don't do the swaps both days. It's fun stuff, but lots goes wrong in a hurry

It's amazing to me how far the red spot DOES travel, (to where you don't want), before you can get it to start bending.

 

@Mr48' Thanks for the link. There's lots of that sort of info on here as well.

@F&J Good info there which helps - thanks. Yeah, that kink is pronounced and I also noticed it was the same on both ends. I wish it wasn't there but it is and might help (as you say) identify it. I'm amazed that people try this at home.

You guys are so lucky over there (in the US) you can take responsibility for your own cars. Down here they need to protect us from ourselves so they regulate everything to fit onto a nice form that can be ticked/checked and passed onto supervisors.

As an example it's sad to think there is no way I will ever be able to use this axle on a road going car (down here in South Australia) as it's origins are unknown and no one of any authority can vouch for the heating and cooling process. I have a nice heavy being dropped, drilled and polished by Dave Mann (roadsters.com) which will come with papers and be approved by my engineer.

But I still like this axle and the price was right and it's going to look hell cool hanging above my work bench.

 

If your inspectors had ever straightened a bent Ford axle, or dropped one, it would go a long way in understanding just how incredibly strong these forged antique axles really are.

The axle I plan to drop had a slight hit from a stump or boulder. My hyd press is not wide enough, so today I used the weight of a tandem rear axle 10 wheel truck. I set the axle under one rear end, with blocks about 30" apart, then used a jack on top of the axle. (which is actually the back side of the axle when installed). The first try, I only compressed about 1/4" past straight, but it sprung right back. 2nd try I went 1/2" beyong straight which did help. 3rd try I could hear the yellow pine blocks being crushed...and it came out dead straight. I am positive that work needs to be done cold, for more control.

 

I know, they are very very strong but all authorities down here are so petrified that they are going to get into some sort of trouble for making a decision that they always stay on the "I'd prefer to keep my job" side of the decision. "Heat on a front end component!! - Oh My God!!!" - usually followed by running away with arms flailing around in the air".

At least my engineer will allow a dropped axle (very rare!) as long as I can provide a paper trail and engineering description of the quenching process after bending and I don't drill holes into the feet of the I-Beam webbing I can use it. I guess they are scared of the unknown and of us driving around on crystal suspension or steering parts.

Anyway, I'm still searching and re-searching the H.A.M.B for any clues on this axle and who might have dropped it. The raised forging letters look like BB or EE? I'll go out and take some shots of that part if it would help.

 

Well, If you ever run out of wall space I'd be willing to make you an interesting trade. What ever might be of equal value that is interesting to you that you have a hard time finding there.

 

is the parch bolt thickness 2" or 2-1/4"

if its 2-1/4" then tts a model A axle

if its 2" then its (32 light..... which i dont think ever existed) 33-36

and its probably a mor-drop,

its deffinately not a ed axle stewart (dago)

top in the pic is an A we dropped

middle is an dago axle

bottom i believe to be a mor-drop

 

Thanks for the offer. I'll keep that in mind. I'm amused by how clean it is as well. Those black caps covering the underside of the Perch bolt holes might be a clue if anyone knows who used them to "protect" the holes.

Speaking of the previous owner I asked "what's the story". He said, "there is no story. I bought it off a friend of mine and sold it to you" - great.

 

Jeff, the perch bolt thickness is 2".



Thanks for eliminating Ed. That's a start. What tipped you off?

In a PM it was suggested that my axle looks similar to this one...

which I borrowed from this thread...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=422177&page=38

 

What tipped me off?

Look at the pics of the 3 axles, once you look at it you should be able to tell em apart no problem, basically the dago axles were blacksmithed (hammered) into shape, where the mor-drop type axles are heated and stretched.

then with the 2" perch its a 33-36 axle

we could go into a debate about light and heavy 32 axles but as far as im concerned all 32's had the heavy axle in them other than maybe a late or early build of a replacement.

jeff

 

oh and Okie adams did some axles too, he cut the ends off and welded in dropped ends, i dont have any pics of those nor do i have one, but i would like to get my grubs on one someday.

jeff

 

Ok, I see it now. Not sure what happened there but the pic wasn't in your post when I first saw it - I must be getting older than I thought. That pic shows clearly (and thankfully) that it's not like a "D'ago" and much more like the mor-drop axle in the middle. Boy, those D'ago axles are nasty looking. Our inspectors would laugh their heads off if I presented my car with one of those axles on it. Feeling better with this one now that's for sure.

Also, what's with the "F" stamped with a centre punch? That's attractive!...not

 

some people seem to think theres a front and back to an axle, thats what the f's about

yeah i added the pic

 

Interesting. I presume there isn't?

 

i dont think so myself. but again, im sure thats debatable by someone

 

Are dago axles the ones that are sometimes filled with plate on each side to cover the blacksmithing drop, or to add strength back into it, or both?

 

heres another pic of some more axles

top....mor-drop 33-36

middle and bottom dago 32 heavy's

 

Actually that top (chromed) one looks nice enough. The middle one is scary (to me anyway - cool "historically" though). The bottom is interesting with it's square hole(s?).

 

Yeah, the square holes are funny,i got the axle for $70 so i cant complain.

There are tons of dago axles on the road, that one looks safe as heck compared to other dagos ive seen, it dont bother me a bit, itll be on my 32 sedan.

 

What is the differance between the model A axles and the 33-36, they are dimentionaly the same aren't they, except the wishbone perches being 2"

 

basically yes, after they are dropped, before they are dropped the A axle has less of a drop than a 33-36 but not by much, i cant remember the amount at the moment. and its really easy to mill 1/4 off an Axle then you can get really mixed up on identifaction

 

32ford5 you can get an axle dropped AND certified by Gary Page of Page Chassis Works in Maldon, Victoria. He's been doing them for years and does a fantastic job. I have 2 of his axles in my shed at present- a 4" and a 5" but I'm not computer smart so can't post the pics. My axles are his #301 and 302 IIRC.

I'm surprised your engineer will accept a drilled axle as you can't even get one on Streetrod rego in Vic.

swifty

 

Thanks for that info Swifty. I don't get around the street rod circles much anymore.

A while ago I decided to leave the "street rodders federallies" to their own devices too. I don't go with street rod rego either as I find it's just too tame for my tastes. I always use an independent engineer that way I can build what I want - within reason. With an engineer you can register anything he thinks is safe and complies with all general laws. He said holes in the web of the I-Beam are fine as long as they don't touch the curves.

 

Wow 32 I had no idea thing were so strict down there. I guess it kinda explains why iv never had a order for a axle form Australia.

How do they know a stock axle from a dropped one? (Inspector would need to know old fords fairy well.)
What is there policy on running a new cast axle?


Id say if yours is from the states its probably a Mordrop.