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Technical Dropped Light Bar Issue Model A 1931

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by dduckb, Dec 20, 2023.

  1. dduckb
    Joined: Oct 3, 2023
    Posts: 5

    dduckb

    Good day all,
    I have a 1931 Model that I am finishing building into a hotrod for my brother. (He is no longer on this earth.) The '31 is completely stock, except for the rolling ch***is which he built. The body is metal stock. He purchased a bunch of parts for the hot rod (he knew what he wanted) and since he is no longer with us some of the parts I an not sure where he purchased them from.

    I have a dropped light bar but trying to fit it is a ******, it is about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch off, the dropped light bar holes don't line up. I have to push down on the fenders to get the dropped bar holes to line up. (and it's still not lined up enough) The stock original light bar fits perfect.
    1) is this a common issue?
    2) I could heat it and bend it, has anyone tried this?
    3) any recommendations for purchasing (another) dropped bar from someone/company? I spoke with Speedway Motors and they said i could try perhaps the '32 dropped bar to see if it would fit better and return it if it didn't fit.
    4) Suggestions?
    Thank you, Darrell

    22 Dec 2023
    Mahalo folks for all your feed back. The tips and links are very informative. It is much appreciated! I will use the links provided to do more research. (Perhaps purchase another dropped bar?) Since I currently have a new dropped bar. I think we will try to bend the dropped bar using heat. The holes are off by around a half inch. And my Model A expert who restores Model As and builds hotrods advised me since the bar is made of stainless I should heat it up and bend it on each end by the flange a 1/4". He advised to simply insert a couple of nuts and bolts on the flanges; place it in a vice; heat it up and bend it. (Since it's stainless the heat won't damage it and it should polish up fine once done.)
    Aloha, Mele Kalikimaka, Hauoli Makahiki Hou,
    Darrell
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2023
    vtx1800 likes this.
  2. '29 Gizmo
    Joined: Nov 6, 2022
    Posts: 1,219

    '29 Gizmo
    Member
    from UK

    Sounds like its the wrong bar. It must be a 30/31 to fit. Unless the stock bar has been modified to fit the new ch***is
     
  3. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 2,998

    dwollam
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I bought a Speedway '30-'31 bar and had the same issue. Put it in my press to bend it and found it was hollow and bent REAL easy! Try just bending it around a barrel or a big pipe or something. It'll work.

    Dave
     
  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,505

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  5. dduckb
    Joined: Oct 3, 2023
    Posts: 5

    dduckb

     
  6. dduckb
    Joined: Oct 3, 2023
    Posts: 5

    dduckb

    Good day Dave, "mahalo" for the feedback. Luckily I have a source here in Tacoma that is a wealth of knowledge on model As. (John Hash) and he has been consulting me on my many questions. He also recommended using heat to bend it...
     
  7. dduckb
    Joined: Oct 3, 2023
    Posts: 5

    dduckb

    Good day Mr48vhev, mahalo for the feedback. I did speak with Speedway Motors and the guy wasn't much help accept to re***ure me the lengths i had were correct. He did mention that the dropped bars sold by other folks are probably the same as theirs as they are built by the same company or companies...
     
  8. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 2,998

    dwollam
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I wouldn't use heat to bend that light stainless tube. I researched that and more and decided heat would discolor it and found it was not needed at all. Bends VERY easily which is why I think they are flattened when one gets them shipped. Wouldn't take much mishandling to do that.

    Dave
     
  9. dduckb
    Joined: Oct 3, 2023
    Posts: 5

    dduckb

    Hi Dave, Thanks for the advice... we will thread lightly when we heat it up. Haven't decided which way we are going with this issue. The dropped bar appears solid and is stainless so applying heat to it should work but we will go easy to start off. The way I look at it if we mess it up we can use it as an "art piece".
     
  10. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,864

    clem
    Member

    This is one of those times when pictures may be helpful………:)
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  11. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 2,998

    dwollam
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    They are solid on the ends but hollow all the way from headlight mount to headlight mount. I say don't heat it.

    Dave
     
  12. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 5,149

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    With out pics ,just guessing & correct bar, its much easer to install bar with fender brackets loose on both side of frame & fenders , I install this way on As & 32s
     
  13. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 4,730

    nochop
    Member
    from norcal

    It was a ****** getting my stock 32 bar to fit I loosened fender and fender supports, jiggled everything until it fit. All fell together like it came from Dearborn
     
    clem likes this.
  14. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,505

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm going to ***ume that you don't have an original in good shape to compare it to. The one I have is "wreck damaged" From when the 31 Vic I had got wrecked 50 years before I ever saw it. Someone might have a good one close at hand that they can measure though.
     
  15. sdroadster
    Joined: Jul 27, 2006
    Posts: 449

    sdroadster
    Member

    I had a similar experience on a 31 Victoria years ago. You can screw around and bend, and heat forever, and you may never get the bar to fit right.
    This is how I did it.
    1. Make a frame out of s**** square tubing, with little angled pieces near the bottom that will pick up on the original headlight bar mounting surface. Make sure the feet of the headlight bar fits the pieces.
    2. Drill and tap holes in the pieces, and mount them to your existing headlight bar, and then weld the pieces into the square tubing frame you built.
    3. Now you have a home base that represents the dimensions of the headlight bar that fits the car.
    4. Now you can start to mount the new headlight bar in the framework, and immediately see what is required to make the new bar fit your car.
    5. Bend, heat, cuss, porta power, jack, push, heat, cuss... When all the holes line up, and you can screw in the bolts to the framework fixture, your new headlight bar will be identical to the old one dimensionally. That's how I did it years ago. Good luck.
     
    Bugguts likes this.

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