Anybody know where I can get a dropped tie rod end like the one below? This would really help with my tie rod clearance......
Got access to a lathe? You may not need it depending on how you set up the tie rod. Looks to me like you could make a "drop- block." Measurements are somewhat arbitrary, you'll need to use what is actually required. The list measurements are just to give you a general idea. A 1" thick chunk of cold-rolled 1 1/2" wide and 3" tall for the drop-block. A piece of 11/16" OD cold-rolled round bar. Drill the drop-block 11/16" at one end. Make an 11/16-18 stud that screws into the tie rod and is long enough to go through the drop block as well as having room for an 11/16-18 jam nut. (Jam nuts are about half as thick as a regular nut - available at Speedway). (11/16-18 dies are somewhat uncommon so you'll have to thread the stud on the lathe.) Drill the drop block at the other end and tap it for the tie rod end. You'll need LH and RH threads so you can do the adjusting at the top of the drop block with the tie rod ends. If the tie rod with drop block et al is the right length to get the wheels parallel you won't need to move it much for the 1/16" - 1/8" toe-in that is usually used in these cars. Don't forget the jam nut. And . . . round the ends of the drop block so as to give it a nice shape. Options: Use the lathe to make a 7/8" OD tie rod that has 5/8-NF threads instead of the 11/16-18. Both ends can be right hand thread since toe-in adjustments will be made at the tie rod ends. As is obvious you'll need 5/8-NF jam nuts here. (Also available at Speedway.) A way around the don't-got-access-to-a-lathe problem is to find a junkyard tie rod end or other steering component that has a long enough 11/16-18 threaded piece that you could saw it off and use that for the tie rod to drop-block stud. Cautions: Use the shortest drop-block - within reason - you can. The longer the drop-block is the more bending force will be applied to the tie rod. Additional advantages: The tie rod can be set at a bit of an angle toward the rear which may help to clear engine compenents and the like, but as stated before don't use an overly long drop-block to accomplish this. The drop-block should work just fine. I note that many T-Bucket runners use a spacer between steering arm and the Heim at each end of the tie rod. Some of these spacers are somewhat tall to my eye, but they don't seem to create a problem. The Heim with a spacer can be a good solution to a steering arm/tie rod interference problem, but it shouldn't be used on a car much heavier than a T-Bucket. The drop block is compact and would allow more clearance than a dropped tie rod end or a dropped tie rod. Some of the dropped tie rod ends are overly long. Lastly, be sure and swing the wheels full left and full right and make sure a bottom out situation doesn't have the steering components conflicting with frame, bones, radius rod or 4 bar.
thats some good info! I was more looking for the tie rod end in that picture^^^ or what it might have came off of? Ive heard maybe Jeep?
Those are '36-'37 Willys tie rod ends. When ordered them up, make sure they come from a car with mechanical brakes. I have two sets in my garage, I'll get the part numbers off of them & let you know. Depending on eho you get them from, they can be $40.00-$100.00 N.O.R.S. I hope this helps.
They used to cut them in half and weld them on a drop block. Bought a pair from MorDrop 35 years ago. I remember opening the box and sayin "This is what I paid for?"...............OLDBEET
No, but I've made more complex things than a drop block. My first lathe project was a 1 1/2" x 8 threaded mount chuck backing plate with blind holes. It came out great even if I did cut 1 1/2" x 8 LH threads instead of RH. Then I learned about interference fits and cutting RH threads....
This may help. A buddy of mine's dad made these with a torch and vega tie rod ends. A little easier to find I would think.
I was gonna suggest that--looking through the Moog catalog, there are lots of common modern ends with really long forged shanks that could be dropped. A little digging would likely turn up some with regular Ford threads so you could get rod and suitable tap easily.
I know this is an old thread, but I found new Willys tie rod ends today online and thought I would p*** it on. http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut...ium=cpc&utm_campaign=adv&3593=37912&3671=1002 Anyone besides Nostalgia59 using Willys tie rods? Thinking about using them on my '32.
I think they were a fairly common solution years ago, have a tie rod from a forties midget that has 'em...
I think Speedway Motors has some, with 11/16-18 [ford] threads..They also have the drop blocks, somewhere around the PU dropped axles....
As Fontana said. Speedway has them with "Ford threads" that fit my 64' Dodge perfectly. I used these to get around using drop blocks. Most of the drop blocks I've seen do not use a double taper like a rod end does and are in my opinion extremely dangerous as a result. - EM
Or simply order these. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...j1ZD_LV7LrjIe0EQdkya9IRM5j71E8HAaAu0uEALw_wcB
37 Willys Ebay numbers 193304900397 223859119133 Just realised how old this thread is though this might help someone.
The Jalopy Journal
