Technical Drum brake setup issues

Those '42-'48 brakes have the "floating" lower anchors; not the adjustable fixed cams used on the '39-'41 brakes.

Still would be a good idea to check that they are free to slide and are not bound up.

Most of the time when you do have someone step on the brakes only one shoe will move initially. You can then hold back that shoe with bar against the lip of the backing plate to see that other wheel cyl piston moves.

 

I will get you all a photo of the hub tonight. I believe they are 39-42 hubs because they have the threaded dust cap.
Good to know the rivets aren't a big threat i was just worried about ruining the drum since i read it is a pain separating the hub and drum and installing new studs.

What am I checking for at the bottom anchors just that the shoes can freely slide and aren't wedged outward causing the increased wear on the leading shoe?
Thanks everyone for the tips on checking the wheel cylinders. Hopefully this weekend I can have time to change the pedal ratio and see if that makes a difference with these same shoes.

 

Please listen to this! Gary

 

That drum brake surface is fucked.
Look at the pic

 

It most certainly is, so worn out shoes with fucked drums equals a why are my brakes shit thread

I would suggest measuring the drums and getting them turned if possible and replacing shoes. Basically fix what we know is wrong before chasing a problem that may not exist


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Uhhhh no

The shiny strip is your active braking surface area.
Not much there to see

 

For those that wanted mote photos of the drum

Are these the 40-42 hubs since they might inside the drum?

After having someone press on the brake and holding on shoe in place I noticed both extended freely but the leading show didn't always want to draw back in right away and sometimes would hang. I guess new wheel cylinders are in order and I will make sure to clean up where the site rubs the backing plate.

I think it looks worse in that photo than what the drum surface is. Here is a photo with a straight edge across the surface showing is not grooved that bad and is still shiny ( not rough and rusty like it looks in the first pic)

 

Check the backing plate wear tabs for groves and edges.

 

A couple things I've noticed. The cylinders seem almost new. If they are hanging up a little from corrosion, just pop the shoes and cups off, and run a simple brake hone in there. Get some new inner cups and outer bellows from NAPA. Take the old ones in to match the sizes, they are common.

And, those springs are sproinged. Get some new ones.

You do have 40-42 hubs and drums. If you absolutely determine you need new drums because they won't clean up with a little turn, buy them from Boling Brothers, and search my threads for one on installing new studs in those hubs (about six months ago).

 

Are you running old Ford wire wheels on those hubs and drums?

 

Sounds good thanks for those tips. And yes I am running old 17" ford wire wheels with the wire wheel support spacers.