ALL new everything including auto adjusters and ceramic shoes. Everything is neat and clean..The original drums have been turned. The brakes have pulled to the left exclusively unless i drag the brakes and heat up the shoes/drums. Then everything stops straight. SO i decided to swap the front drums from side to side...NOW the brakes pull to the right. Sounds like the brake drum is at fault. What do you guys think could cause this. Should i have the drums turned again or maybe buy new drums. Kind of got me a bit puzzled. Thanks for any help....Jim
Certainly sounds like a drum issue. Are those stock '54 drums? If so, there's probably not a bunch of meat left for turning them. New drums are $200+ each but you can use the Raybestos 1634R '68 Mustang drums which run $35 at RockAuto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=427024&cc=0&pt=1744&jsn=1030 The Raybestos pieces are surely made offshore and have been known to not be completely round so, I would suggest having them turned before installation. Best to install new '68 Mustang wheel studs too.
I was wondering if the metalurgy of the original drums are different left to right. Strange it only happens if the drums are cool. I may just go to new drums. I dont want to change to disc.
You should probably read this article, very good information if you have a 1952-54 Ford. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...p1gc8laNbVtcfDUBzg_aem_5kroE9dmyYA76mw59nWfvA I updated this information into the "Sticky FAQ" on page one.
Not really. I had to back off one drum about 3-4 clicks to not have the drum rub on shoe. They came off easily, so i know the auto adjusters are working. The drum surfaces are clean and smooth. There is a small amount of warpage on both drums, but i expect them to not be perfect after many heat/cool cycles.
Then the drums would be the only variable. It is odd but probably too many heat cycles as Jimmy 6 mentioned.
What do the drums measure up at? Some the max oversize is .060", some will go .090". It will be marked on the outside of the drum. One shop I worked at, we liked to keep fronts within .010" of each other. Other than that the only things I cam think of is a bad brake hose, shoes on backwards. If all that is good, get an accurate measurement on the drums, make sure the shoes are not hung up on the little pads on the backing plate and give it a real careful adjustment. Loose wheel bearings are another thing to look at.
Back when I was doing wheel alignments we always put a little more caster in one side to compensate for the road crown, the car would pull to the side with the least positive caster. I have seen very worn control arm bushings causing the caster to change under braking from the force of the wheel stopping loading the bushings and moving the control arm. When not braking the bushings would return to a centered position. Make sure everything is tight and the bushings are good would be the only other thing I could think of. Just a thought.
Everything on the front end is new accept the 4 tie rod ends which are solid. When the weather warms i think i may have both drums turned again and see what happens...if no change, then i will get new drums and wheel studs. Had front end alignment and new tires before i put it on the road 4K miles ago..Because the problem follows the drum i suspect the drum.. Maybe the surface isnt smooth..There is very little drag on the drum in a couple of spots but i think that is ok.
The drums should be staked to the hubs, they should not be loose. Auto parts stores used to be able to do this. So make sure about this, an easy mistake to make.
Sounds like a plan. Make sure the drums are staked to your hubs and the drums are cut. Ask to have the final sizes of each after the cuts. This will be a good reference for you in case it doesn't solve your issues.
The Jalopy Journal
