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@#&@^ Drum Brakes!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 69supercj, Aug 15, 2011.

  1. markjenks
    Joined: Aug 31, 2009
    Posts: 384

    markjenks
    Member

    It's the springs everyone has problems with. Pulling them over the top center is the worst of the issue. And also which ones go first, second, etc. Comes with age and practice, but also the right tool helps tons.

     
  2. markjenks
    Joined: Aug 31, 2009
    Posts: 384

    markjenks
    Member

    That tool I posted has a notched end for grabbing the center pin and you hook the spring over the shaft of the tool. Lever it up and the spring stretches over the shaft of the tool and slides over the center pin. Works every time without fail.

    Wouldn't do a brake job without it.

     
  3. markjenks
    Joined: Aug 31, 2009
    Posts: 384

    markjenks
    Member

    The other side of the arm has the spring remover tool, that you put it over the pin, rotate it and it pull the spring off.

    The only other tool that I have to drum brakes is the one to push do the cups for the hold-downs.
     
  4. They are nice, my neighbor had one many years ago and I used to borrow it all the time.. I didn't think they made them anymore...
     
  5. markjenks
    Joined: Aug 31, 2009
    Posts: 384

    markjenks
    Member

  6. markjenks
    Joined: Aug 31, 2009
    Posts: 384

    markjenks
    Member

  7. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,764

    bobss396
    Member

    It's one of those practice makes perfect things. When you do 1000 brake jobs a year for 5 years straight, they're easy.

    I install the rear shoe first, or whichever hooks up to the parking brake lever. Get the hold down spring on, then the long spring to the anchor. Then the equalizer bar that goes between the shoes. Next is the self-adjuster with the spring between the shoes, the front shoe hold down, then the long spring to the anchor.

    If the equalizer bar between the shoes is tight, then the emergency brake is probably not fully retracted.

    Bob
     
  8. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,757

    flynbrian48
    Member

    A big screwdriver and pair of pliers has always worked for me, although I'll admit I don't do 'em often enough to have it take 5 minutes per wheel. The only time it's difficult is if there's an E-brake cable hung up, which is why the last time I had to do brakes that was what ate the shoes!
     
  9. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,764

    bobss396
    Member

    There's a lot of little things that make for a good drum brake job. I had worked in a variety of shops and saw "experts" do them one side at a time so they could run around and look at the other side for hints.

    I had made lots of $$$ redoing brake jobs from amatuer driveway spe******ts up to dealers and what were supposed to be good shops.

    The e-brake thing is easy to miss unless you run into it a few times.

    Bob
     
  10. outlaw256
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 2,022

    outlaw256
    Member

    i just put brakes back together on our 67 impala which i have taken apart back in may.after staring at all them parts for 15 min. took me 10 to put a side back together.the other side just alittle longer becauser i had to a spit some blood where i punched myself in the jaw when the pliers slipped!!
     
  11. 69supercj
    Joined: Apr 5, 2010
    Posts: 356

    69supercj
    Member

    Thanks for the tips guys, I just finished a good ole plate of bacon, eggs and toast and its off to the garage. Any other tips?
     
  12. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,077

    squirrel
    Member

    pull a drum off the other end of the truck so you can see how they are supposed to look when you're done....
     
  13. 69supercj
    Joined: Apr 5, 2010
    Posts: 356

    69supercj
    Member

    I know how there supposed to look, its the gettin' there thats the prob. Just wondering if there are tricks or hints on the order of ***embly.
     
  14. 40FORDPU
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 4,023

    40FORDPU
    Member

    I like to start off with a good clean surface, clean the backing plates (brakeleen works great), buy a new brake spring combi-kit, and adjuster kit, when you buy the new shoes, and wheel cylinders, mic the drums (turn/replace as necessary). Leave the other side in tact, for a reference. If you already took both sides off, get on line, for a blow up of the ***embled brakes. Brakes are not something to take a short cut on. Patience will help, along with some choice words inserted appropriately.
     
  15. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,077

    squirrel
    Member

    Here's the info straight from Ford. They wouldn't screw with you. This is the 69 truck manual. I haven't done the cable type self adjusters for almost a year, so I forgot how to do it....I'd have to get in there and work on them to remember.
     

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  16. 4oldfords
    Joined: Sep 30, 2009
    Posts: 158

    4oldfords
    Member
    from Texas

    i forgot about that - i hit myself in the face too....good times
     
  17. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,764

    bobss396
    Member

    Do the rear shoe first, the pull-back spring retains the little 1/2-round bracket that the cable rides in. The picture Jim attached should help a bunch.

    Bob
     
  18. 69supercj
    Joined: Apr 5, 2010
    Posts: 356

    69supercj
    Member

    Well its amazing what a fresh start will do. Went down to the shop and got started and found that if you just put the pull back spring in place, even without attaching it to the top pin, it will hold the half round fulcrum in place. Once I did that, it went back together pretty quick. I also took some C-clamp vise grips and held the shoe's in place which seemed to help also. Took about 15 minutes to get 'em back together. Took it for a test drive and all is well. Thanks for all those who chimed in with help, I appreciate it!!!
     

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