I been going back and forth in my plans on building a Dry Lake styled racer. I got a 28 chevy frame, and looking for some better axles, and is gonna run a straight six and a 4 speed. I got no body, except some rusted and beaten cowl. I'm thinking about doing a roadster body for it. S & G inspired. It gonna be low budget build. I have started some different threats on different matters, but now it's time to start the more serious part of the project: build threat I got some questions on wheels, first off. I got the 1928 plate wheels, 21" split rims, I got a line on some 4x19" inch plate wheels. But would 4.5x16" plate wheels be better, or should I go for 17" wire wheels? Please note, that wheels that fit the Chevy six bolt pattern are rare over here. The only thing around that fit that pattern are Nissan and Toyota 4x4 and Ferguson tractors. And Ferguson would be the best match, in the looks department. Here are a few pictures of the mess so far. https://www.dropbox.com/s/xnwm7m1l42zxoc7/IMG_7466.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/c98kblhmxux9un3/IMG_7469.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/x4bor1p58sw05ty/IMG_8036.JPG?dl=0 So you see it's rough, but I only need the frame. I got paperwork to make it a 1929 instead of 1928. Because of the need too run a stock frame, to make it street legal, I have to run it as close to stock looking as possible. But I'm gonna go Genuine-Smokey on the rule book.
The cowl and what you have look better than your description. People here have started with worse. I think your off to a great start. Rip into it!
Wish you were closer- I'd trade you a set of 17, 18, or 19 inch Chevy wires for your cowl and/or front doors !!!
I'm planing to run a pair 1950-1954 Chevy truck axels, they give me hydraulic brakes, better aftermarket service and drums all around that match. That will give 2 inch drop in the front over stock and a shorter spring at the rear, to make it stand level, without a rake. I'm gonna run underfloor MC from the truck too. With 1946 Chevy truck pedals on the side of the gearbox, and hand brake from the same truck for the look. The engine is gonna sit on a new crossmember, and the gearbox on the stock trans mount. That means a need to do something about the middle crossmember too. I'm thinking about boxing the frame with a u-profil with the legs being about an inch long, and then lay it the opposite way of the frame rail. So there will be some exposed part of frame, for a less boxed look. Any thoughts on that solution?
Like the sound of this (you had me at ''Budget Build'') and you have a good start with the ch***is and body parts......cool project. JW
I've got a situation with axels. I've found a set from a 1949 Chevy half ton AD. Torque tube and missing brake parts, with springs for 1300$. Or a 1954 Chevy 3600 series AD. Set, with no rear spring pack and no front brakes. But that's 8bolt hubs, pita. For 260$. And just maybe is there a front axel of a 1955 TF truck,owner claims it's still a match. But still no rear. With 5bolt hubs from a 54 car. Advise?
All the same bolt pattern, but you will probably have to make a spacer for in between the wheel and drums. Just looked at the prices you are dealing with- wonder if you might save a few Krones by having parts purchased and shipped from the US?
Same pattern? 6 and 8? What spacer? Yes, at some point I will have to order from the US. But I'm gonna postpone ordering, till I've checked all the Danish vendors
Sorry- the 6 bolt pattern is the same from the '20's on up through the 60's (don't know about 8 lug). I still can't figure out how to post pics on the upgraded HAMB, but the diameter of the wire wheel centers is less than that of the newer brake drums. So, in order to mount the early wires on the later drums, you will have to make spacers so that the centers don't collapse when you tighten the lugs. In regard to shipping, most front or rear axles here in Georgia are about $100-150 hub to hub from the salvage yards.
Okay,I see. The 8 bolt is a slight PITA. But do able. About the hubs, If I run the plate wheels, I'll have them reamed to size. The shipping isn't gonna do much good. I know a guy who has a set open prop with brakes for 650$ with shipping from Canada. The shipping is gonna be the biggest part of it. The TF front axle, is about 140$.
Does the front axle have mech brakes? If so 38-'42 stub axles/brakes will adapt Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Just so you know, those disk wheels are HEAVY- I just put a set with the split rims up on a shelf in my garage and was hurting by the time I got to the last one I will say that ne**ussian did a thread some years back about modifying a set of disk wheels and welding modern 17 inch (I think) hoops to them to cut down on weight and rid himself of those obnoxious split rims. Good point Jimmy- completely forgot about that! You would still want to use a later rear axle though- those '28 rears are pretty weak.
Sounds like a fun build project. I think I saw you write a little about your plans for this project on the Danish "Traditional Hot Rods" Forum (THR). Have you decided on which Inline 6 engine and/or the 4-speed transmission? You said something about pedals mounting off the gearbox? That may mean you are considering a heavy old pickup transmission with a very low first and second gear. Maybe that doesn't matter for a lakes racer, but it seems like it would be more satisfactory to use a lighter and higher-geared gearbox --- maybe even one with an overdrive 4th (or 5th) gear. Vintage Chevy wire wheels were for decades so common over here in the US of A, that almost nobody would save them and they ended up being s****ped. That's because older Chevy bodies were built with a wood framework, and when the bodies started to get old or weathered, they fell apart and it wasn't considered very cost-effective to try to save them. Since there were no good bodies, there was little demand for other old Chevy parts. That has changed a bit in the last 10 or 20 years, I think, because Chevy bodies are now much scarcer then Ford bodies, and, therefore, somewhat more desirable then previously. Unfortunately, not many 1920's or 30's Chevy parts are found today, including wheels. I have stashed away a few late 1920's or early 1930's Chevy ch***is (with steel disk or wire wheels) for future projects similar to the one you are going to do. I may end up putting ragged 1926/27 Ford Model T roadster or coupe bodies (both of which I have) on these frames and do similar to what you plan to do. I have a 1955 Chevy pickup front axle saved for one of these projects too. I'm thinking in terms of using a Saginaw manual 4-speed ****** with either a 2.85 or 3.11 first gear behind either a Chevy 292 in-line 6, or GMC (Jimmy) 270 in-line 6, but I haven't ruled out a Borg Warner T5 5 speed overdrive transmission. The T5's seem to be the go-to hot rod transmission these days. Anyway, I am excited about your build project, and I will follow along both on the HAMB and on the Danish THR forum. You are many kilometers ahead of me in your planning, but maybe your project will motivate me to do my Chevy project sooner rather than later. Hilsens, Southfork
Your project sounds great and very similar to what I'm planning. You are way further ahead than me though, all I've got is a few 1936 Chev parts… wheels, an incomplete engine, gearbox, front axle and diff. No ch***is, body, clutch, flywheel, steering etc. etc.. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Glen.
The plan is something like this. https://www.dropbox.com/s/23tydqzook4drph/IMG_7324.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/thgzbvyoymd5uks/IMG_7284.JPG?dl=0 The engine is a little hush-hush, but it's a Volvo B30E 1969-1975 straight six 181ci. Around 170hp, I plan on running two 97, if I can find two good ones this side of the Atlantic. And dressed to look old. I will be running a M400 4speed Volvo box, and looking for a M410, 4speed OD. I would like to redo my split rim with a newer rim part, they look cool, and in one-piece. Like the Ferguson 19x4, moon discs maybe.
There is some Nissan rear for sale around here, they fit and is 4.11 gears and they start at 200-600$. They are a good match for with and spring hangers.
Stub axles = spindles. What I was saying was the stub axles (spindles) & brakes adapt to the '28 axle.
I thought that 36 Chevy wheels had a 5 bolt lug pattern on a small circle, and that they are artillery wheels. Is that what you plan to use, Glen? If so, they are super cool looking artillery wheels -- but an odd bolt pattern.
35-36 standart is 5 lug odd, 35-36 master is 6 lug even/normal. 5 lug odd, ain't that weird it's late-Volvo pattern, 5x108 mm/metric. I found 35 wires 17", but that requires that I run a late Volvo rear, with disc brake. And that's a little hard to make look as stock 1929 drums
You should be able to use the 35 wires with the Nissan or other rear, just with a spacer! My daily is a Toyota 4Runner that has pretty much the same rear- will mock it up with one of my wires and let you know how it works
Yep. Thats nice of you! I've been think about call in a favor and make a spacer convert to 5x4.25 inch (odd 35/36 Chevy) and run wires instead. But that means buying another set of wheels. Instead of swap for 19 inch steal wheels. These wheels looks awesome! https://www.dropbox.com/s/ms5obm7ehnejd43/2014-11-17 12.46.06.jpg?dl=0
The first thing I do after returning to my home, is look true a Danish side for vintage/old cars buying/selling. And I found a rear end from a Jeep, add says: Gearbox, rear end, B Willys jeep, pick up (in person) only. 170$ The gear box is junk, but the rear axle I can't identify, it looks like a Dana 35 or C8.25. Drums look to be 6 lug. Who can ID this, and who can tell my anything about size ( hub-to-hub, plate-to-plate or spring perchs distance) and the quality of such a rear end. It looks better then my 28 rear end! 6 lug would make it 1974-1980ish wagoneer rear end? And 6x5.5 bcd?
Yeah, the lug pattern is a bit small, but I plan on using the original rear end with torque tube and the original front axle, so everything will match. Interesting to know it's the same pattern as Volvo. Coincidentally, I picked up a twin carb setup the other day that's apparently from a Volvo Penta marine engine. They are solex 44pa1 carbs and hopefully will work on the engine I have. I'll need to make my own manifold. I'm looking forward to starting the project but don't know when that'll be. I'll keep watching your progress and I'm sure I'll be inspired to start. Back to the wheels… I found a post on a New Zealand forum where someone said "Alfa 166, Citroen XM, Ford Mondeo 2001 onwards, Jag X type, Lancia Kappa, Pug 605XM, and most Volvos of the 90s are 5x108mm.". And I have also found that early Holdens are the same, so that lug pattern is not that strange really. Cheers, Glen.
They are only odd to find on Chevy too, not odd in a odd way Be aware on the solex's, ain't all had a accelerating pump, and parts ain't as easy as it used to be. But if they are good, go for it. Anything on the jeep rear?
Sorry, I can't be of any help IDing that rear end. I'm sure someone on here will be able to though. I found a place online that sells parts and kits for the solex pa1 carbs... http://www.carburetor-parts.com/44PA1_c_203.html Hope I manage to find a body half as good as what you have, otherwise I'll have to build one from scratch... and it won't be pretty. Glen.
You can get the half of mine, I bring it to the nearest airport, if you arrange shipping. I can fold it up for you. Even put a red bow on it. Anybody else got a guess on the Rear. I'm getting closer, it might be a Chevy, mid seventies full size 4x4 rear, or a 12bolt. If it is, it's 65 track, and it's gonna be 60 in front. Will that look weird with same rims front and back?
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