Just got my "new" wheels today, or at least the first three. Las one comes from another guy. 1931-31 wire wheels. Found a line on a Nissan (hardbody) rear end and radiator shell at a fair price. Also located a set of springs of a early 80s Nissan Patrol springs. They fit the bill, if I remove a couple of leafs, and reasonably priced. Now I can only wait my relay for the parts. So I can move on. Small bump, with minimal shop progress.
Only this: I have removed the cowl, and the last wood. The subrails was the last wood left. Rest of the body is coming of next time I'm in the shop. But I've been busy at my work, being spokes person when the firm is closing my branch (2hours driving or day) and being a farther times two (girl 3 yrs, boy 5 weeks). So not much progress. So the Chevy is under a tarp for the time being. I'm still working on the relay for the last parts, to make a big move on it and get the it media blasted.
If I get the time after work tomorrow, I will work on my pedals and hand break ***embly. I got me a TF 1/2 tons truck front axle ***embly with good brakes and new wheel bearings. [emoji2] Now I need to make my set up so that it can hold my brake master and pedals to the side of the gearbox. Like if it was a 41-46 box, where I got the pedals from. To do the brackets I need to know the whole spacing for the master, and hole diameter. For all three. So I can make it before I order a new master. Where would you order a standard issue under floor master, for a TF-series truck? Does it matter if it's summit, speedway, ecklers truck? Or would you recommend somewhere else, as long they send to Europe. [emoji6] or one of you will do it. [emoji12] Is the quality of parts good enough, even if I take the cheapest one? Or stay a way and by the best one they sell? Dual circuit, but with a old look would be to preferred. Advise, please. I've heart that I will need an adaptor to fit 31. wires to late-50s truck hubs? How does they look? Is it because they are hub-centric?
i did not realize 41-46 pedals mounted on the ******. i thought chevy stopped that in '37. the '55 master was a single reservoir. i do not know if E.C.I. here in ct will ship there, but they could tell you what master would work. you will need your pedal ratio and wheel cylinder diameter when you call them.
My bad, cars dont, trucks do! I got a set from a 3 tons 41-46 truck, they ran hydraulic. http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/1947-truck-non-power-dual-master-cylinder-front-and-rear-drums.html This should fit. And have and bolt pattern that is pretty equal. I bet the big brand carry the same style for OEM match. How does I calculate ratio? And I need some kind of bell crank to make this push style work.
Anybody got pics of underfloor master pedals from a AD truck, and measurement of the pedals, so I know how long the pedal had to go under the shaft to move a master. Would you mount pedals to the frame, and safe a hose, it mount it on the gearbox. It has to look close to the set-up of a 30-32 Chevy, to p*** MOT
Can anybody post a pic of Chevy AD brake pedal, and specify the length from center of hinge point to center of push rod for the master. And a pic of the mounting flange MC, with measurements between the bolt holes and the center hole.
i do not have a photo of an ad pedal, and i think you are better off mounting the pedals to the frame instead of the gear box. just my 2¢. pedal ratio is the length of arm from the pivot point compared to the length from pivot point to attachment to master rod.
I really respect your opinion, but I most ask why? I been thinking about doing something like this, but for two pedals. Double sheer on both pedals. I got some .19 inch thickness flat steel. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1955-59-Chevy-Pickup-Master-Cylinder-Adapter,34153.html I plan on installing two pieces of plate on both side of my brake pedal, so I can install the master lower then the hinge point, like on stock AD and TF truck with under floor master set, and reinforce it with flat stock so it creates a u-profile, with the connecting rod going bask wards to the MC, and mounted in double sheer in the pedal, if this makes sense?
The main reason for mounting it on the gearbox is because, it's actually is illegal to upgrade to hydraulics brakes, so it most appear to be stock to p*** MOT. So the closer it comes to a stock 30s setup made by Chevy, the better. What year did Chevy switch to Hydraulic? It's a smokey-move I know, and it can in wearst case mean I got an safer car, that's illegal!!
chevy went to hydraulics in 1936 but maybe it was different over there. crazy that they wouldn't allow upgrades . i think you pedal idea will work fine.
Yes, that's a ****ty law! But we are very "closed down" on stuff, we can't do to out cars. So I go for stock a looking setup, just to keep it safe. The chevy's build over here are just like yours, pre-war cars. Only differens is we use Danish nails, and we get them up to a half year later. [emoji6] But I plan to upgrade it with a 165 hp straight six Volvo 181cui, and that is also pushing the envelope. But I plan on making it look like a older mill. We can only go 20% over power vice, to keep it legal. But you can modify your original engine to any point you want, as long as you keep the stock top, block and crank. But you are allowed to modify them too. So it's Smokey Yunick, in every rule till I get the car I want. I plan on modifying the the frame to look like a 1929.
volvobrynk, here are some pictures of my 52 AD trucks master and pedal set up if you need more let me know what and I'll try to get it for you.
Thank you, that's nice. Can you measure you pedal? From hinge point and straight up, and from hinge point down to connection point. Is the piece from hinge point to connection point vertical? Is it a stock pedal? Did you convert it to a dual master? I know it ain't stock [emoji2][emoji106]
Volvobrynk, The measurements are pivot point of pedal to rod actuator to mc is 2", the measurement from pivot point of pedal to pedal attachment point is 12". The pivot point to mc rod attachment is vertical. The pedal is aftermarket as well as the power booster and master cylinder, my truck was converted from all drums, to disc in front and drums in rear, that is why it has this set-up, which includes a GM proportioning valve seen on the left in the last two photos. Malcolm
I really like that setup! I'm a little split on the look of the single brake MC, or the safety of the dual MC. Because both will be illegal, but safety is important! I will run hydraulic, no matter what! And I got a good price on the brakes/front I beam with new bearings and bum stops.
Hey small update, got my three 30-31 wire wheels "mediablasted", and I found the forth wheel. [emoji2][emoji106] I got the parts needed to do my brake pedal setup. And my hand brake set up is almost ready to get painted, I just need to drill the hinge point out a to 18mm and do a bushing and put everything together. And I need to do some nylon bushings for my pedal setup. Anybody got the hole pattern for a single circuit and dual circuit master, so that I can do a mock up on the frame before i order any of the new parts for my brakes.
That might be the last way out. Was my wheels red from the factory? Or was that a retro/modern traditional thing? Is red wheels and black body an cliché? I been thinking about doing it the same colors as my truck will be, dark red wheels and dark blue body. But that might look stupid with truck and car in the same color. Unless it was a racecar, but I don't build trailer queens.
I've been thinking about where to shop my parts. I don't want to pay to much, but I don't wants to buy ****ty parts. I will be needing kingpins w bushings, master cylinder, brake cylinders front and brake hoses for my front end. And they have to ship internationally [emoji12] Is it possible to push my bronce king pin bushings out, and press them in again? Or em I being a cheap *** here?
Kanter auto in boynton new jersey will have all those parts priced fairly. the drk red with the right blue would be cool even if it matches your truck.
Hey Sorry my build thread has been a little dormant. Me firm closed down the shop I was a part of, and that put my account in a house/DD/food mode for a while. And I had some long overdue work on the house. But I'm more then half way true on my house project and and the DD is back on the road. And I found me a new job, I will be starting the 18th of this month, and my employment at my old job, runs out on the 26th of this month. But I got more good news, a made progress on the parts I got. I made a hand brake setup for my Volvo M400 gearbox. And I've been making good headway on my brake setup. Might even have pictures tomorrow. Still needs to drill both pedals out for a bigger shaft. And weld on the hinge point for them. But almost have all the parts made up, except pedals and anchor point for the clutch cable. I've been looking for ideas for the body, and might go more in this direction:
I just found this thread! I also found another Chevy speedster thread this morning. I like the old Chevys. I am partial because my Dad restored a '30 sedan almost 40 years ago. I recognize alot of the parts from working on the car and from the pile of leftovers from that project.
This is a long overdue update. This is a mock up of the pedal ***embly. I might have overdone it, strength wise but only time will tell. It looks stout. The tabs facing forward is only tacked on to get a feel for size. I will have to do some measurements on the car next time I'm at my shop, where the car is. It's made out of 6mm milled steel. It will hold a master cylinder and two brake pedals, when time comes. I made a Swan neck styled shifter for my Volvo M400 gearbox. I just needs to attach the chrome tube in another way, because it turned over the centerline of the inner part. But I planned to glue the rubber in place with Contact cement.
Fedt at se, du får bygget noget, Brynk! I would recommend to pin the shifter to the axle out of the ball joint. That way, you can always pull the pin, ann change shifter, if so desired. When we (Jalopies) have shifters, which for some reason (Joachim had a 1,5m swan neck shifter almost touching the roof, Leif an old microphone - for which I made the fitting) needs to be held in place, anarchy reigns - welded, glued, hammered, as long as it would stick!
Yep, I'm very satisfied that I got some shop time in this week. And I'm happy about the result. But the lower part of the shifter the black one, has the rubber piece on it that can turn. I plan to secure the rubber piece to the steel. Without hurting the chrome. So I can shift to a different shifter if I get crazy ideas. So in a short time, my fun account gets un-frozen. And I can start getting the new parts I need. Like master cylinder, rear axle and my springs, so I can start on my frame. And I hope to get the time to put an mock up engine together. So I can line the frame parts up before sandblasting and welding.
The Jalopy Journal
