freeze. the story i was given was the truck had the engine yanked out as soon as it entered the salvage yard. i recieved the engine with no intake. which i didnt care. they are 2 darn heavy. the valley pan was heavy pitted. so i would say it had many winters under its belt...only one cylinder was is busted. but after more examination it looks like the engine was already sleeved at some point. there is two cylinder walls! both busted. so...maybe this engine has been rebuilt before in the past??? i looked over the crank and rods and didnt see any machinest marks. still trying to get the darn bellhousing off! the old trans shaft is stuck in the clutch pack. someone cut it off with a cuttingtorch. i think i might have to finish it off with the cutting torch. what is the going rates on sleeving block? just one cylinder. the other 7 cylinders i would want to be honed. how about head rebuild? one cylinder head all valves are free and move fine but there is a spark plug stuck/head broken off. the other head the valves move but are stiff. probably a good soaking in pb blaster i hope will fix this.
An average sleeve will be about $100/hole. Are you planning to keep/use the sodium stem valves? Pass car valve can be installed with new guides if desired. If any of the fat valves are in good condition do not throw them away!!! Any decent machinist should be able to get the old plug out without resorting to a heavy hand and a heli-coil. Of course, if it has been cross-threaded then that is a different story. .
If you have the original manifolds and they are in good shape, those are some of the best flowing hemi ones and are desirable to some and worth some decent money by themselves. Looks like in the one photo, you have at least one. If you aren't going to use them, sell them and help fund the rebuild. Be careful on all the modernizing of the parts. That is largely where the cost for a hemi can go through the roof. Of course if you replace half the stuff on it with hot rod parts it is going to get more costly and one upgrade seems to lead to another pretty easily. Next thing you know, you're dreaming of an aluminum Keith Black block and there is practically nothing left of what you started with. The passenger car water pumps were smaller and pretty easy to come by and look more traditional. I'm pretty sure they will bolt on if you have the whole assembly but other will know for sure. I good rebuilt one should last just as long as any other pump out there. Keep a spare rebuilt one around if you need to worry yourself about it.
the manifold in the picture is busted pretty bad and the other side was gone. i was going to use the heads in their stock form. unless it ends of being one of the valves are bad. can anyone identify the bellhousing and clarify the types of transmissions i can bolt up to the back of it? i dont mind if i have to drill and tap some holes to get a transmission to bolt up.
finally got the bellhousing off! there also was a dead snake trapped inside. been there for awhile. small. here is a picture of the busted cylinder
Hmmmm, a little bit of work to do .......................... but it is a Hemi. Keep showing us progress please. Cheers.
Well now you've got me on that. I've got at least one set and have many times been tempted to pitch them but being the pack rat that I am I didn't. The reason for keepin em?
im confused as a mother f* on the timing and water pump assembly. i dont want that ugly a$$ truck pump. i would like to convert it over to a BBC water pump. the bbc pump would have the outlet for water but what would i do for a inletand themostat since these heads dont have a place for a crossover? been reading up on these hemis and cant seem to find my answer.
Do a search like- hemi truck heads water. By the way, unless I've missed sumthin it looks like the engine might have been drained and water filled that cylinder- down the intake, an open valve. One busted is'nt the end.
o im very excited that that was all there was. im going to try and get the pistons out tomorrow....that is if weather permits me. if its cold outside i might keep my butt indoors. when tax season comes along im going to spend most of my refund on this hemi
Acetone and marvel oil mixed 50/50 works great, I changed the dreaded 2005 F150 5.4 3v head 2 piece spark plugs with over 100k using this mix and I not only didn't break a single one but was done from start to finish in less than 2hrs, just my 2 cent. good luck.
The stock, pre-55 package, along with the truck stuff, had the thermostat in the intake manifold. If you have a 54 style 4-bbl intake it can be made to work with the truck heads and the 51-54 water pump assembly. If you start throwing money in the aluminum eye-candy bucket then you can get the post-55 style intake manifold (no t-stat), shiverlay w/p and custom pulleys, but you will still need a t-stat manifold (talk with TR Waters). As mentioned, the stock iron parts are traditional (if that is what you need/want), and a properly rebuilt water pump will last 100K. There are plenty of guys making the w/p change over so you should not have to pay a fortune for stock parts except for needing a w/p rebuild. .
i bought myself some intake flanges the other night on ebay. i plan on making my own sheetmetal intake. could i just do a simple crossover on the intake and have the water inlet there? using the front water ports? i read about drilling AN fittings in the front of the heads. i dont like that approach.
Truck heads should be solid front. It you have the open front, or get open front heads, you can bolt a 392 crossover on. If solid front TR has fittings you can mod the front of the heads with, or drill the intake flanges @ the front ports & run the remote thermostat that HH sells. Making your own crossover would be an option if it doesn't take up too much room. Should still be room for 3 4 bolt 2 bl carbs if you were going that way.
Start by reading this: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=323149 you can add a t-stat box in the front in similar fashion to an oem design. .
that is pretty much what im talking about. never seen that thread before. thanks for posting it. the past week ive just bem combing threw all the hemi threads i can find on the hamb. some really long nights reading up material
the original oil pan is dented up on the bottom pretty bad. i was going to use it for the time being until i can get afford the chrome. not really on top of my list of things i NEED right now.
So why convert to a BBC assembly? Just because it's easier to buy everything? Bang out that oil pan. It'll be fine. They're worth fixing. Tapping the heads isn't a terrible idea. It'll work, if you do it right. I looked into this awhile back...
that is an odd carb setup. updraft carbs??? right now im currently bidding on a supercharger. i will now in about 2hr wheather or not i won it. if i do it will be setting ontop of the hemi. bbc water pump because they are just a cleaner setup in my eyes. ive only seen a handful of stock pumps that look good to me. they were fully chromed. car version. bad thing is they are still cast iron and weigh a ton. atleast with going with the bbc pump i will be shaving off alot of weight. the more the better. the frame im having the engine set in will be fully boxed, and have 3inch holes the the entire length of the frame. it in itself will weigh so much i cant even figure it up in my mind currently. i have a 33plymouth 5w. so all mopar. im going for a restro mod type of build old style looks with a little new school tech. fenderless. wide whitewalls. steel wheels. parrell leafs all around. sweeped frame. zoomies or laker headers. 33 ford grille no shell. running grille only. i dont have a decklid for the 5w so i have a couple friends with louver presses. im going to hit one of them up and have them make me a decklid....louvered. no ac. no heat. spring-fall car only. lol. ive got the need. the need for speed.
havent had a chance to get the pistons out just yet. found a shop locally that is well known in my area for building race engines. they are reasonalble $300 for honing and sleeve one cylinder. that includeds the sleeve in the price. $120 for valve job,. 30-60 on valve guides depending on what brand i choose. sounds great to me. i won that supercharger. as soon as i get it home i will start building the carb adaptor and lower intake. here is a pic of it. cant beat the price of $327 for a freshly rebuilt blower.
If it hasn't been mentioned then put it in big plastic drum or whatever all apart and fill the drum up with farm livestock malasses and water and let her sit until she comes clean. I wanna say 7 water to 1 malasses but hit the web and check for sure! I'm passing this on b/c I never heard about it before........... pdq67
If the front is drilled like a '51-'54 331 like 73RR says (and I don't remember him being wrong much), It takes a SB Chevy waterpump with the Hot Heads adapter. I have one on the '54 in my avatar. This is a good deal, because you can get an aluminum water pump really cheap. I know it's not traditional, but I race my car occasionally and needed to take all of the weight off the front I could. I think I saved 75 lbs between the water pump assembly and the aliminum intake manifold, which is substantial on a 2200 lb car. I used a standard remote thermostat housing from Speedway, along with hoses into the ports on the intake manifold. Everything works very well. I actually have to run the engine for 10 minutes before each heat, or it doesn't get hot enought.
ive had a bunch of those gm 3800 series II blowers in my junk yard but never knew what to do with them. let me know if you find a way to put it on a v8 and put a carb on top it. i had one that had an underdrive pulley on it too. the pulley was worth about $100 new.
the one i purchased is no a gm 3800 series blower. the one i purchased came off a 5.4liter v8 ford lighting truck. so...it be more than enough for this hemi. now....the gm 3800 series your talking about came out on v6 engines. the only bad thing is the intake port on those blowers usually are located on the rear backside. so it makes it a little tough to fab up a cool looking carb setup. unless your running efi or a sidedraft weber. ive purchased some of the 3800 series before from pull apart for i think $60 and used them on inline 6's...for example a 235 gm inline. runs great. cheap extra HP.
havent had time to even go near the hemi...work is giving me so much OT im just sleeping and working. since the holidays are here i got some time.... anyone know the size of the crankshaft bolt in the middle of the harmonic balancer? the big one. i got to go buy the correct size socket. super stroked about building this hemi. alreaady dreaming about driving the plymouth slamming gears.
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