DUDE...Ive got a HEMI

1 1/4"

 

These engines cost a lot to build. The last one I did was about 3 grand in machine work and parts, and it was in a lot better shape than this one.That didn't include any manifolds or dress up stuff. I've rebuilt worse than that (a Buick Nailhead). I think I would get this thing apart and see what's going on inside before making plans for manifolds, blowers, water pump, etc. This aint no small block chevy, it all sounds like fun until you get in deep. It's obvious that it's been rusting inside out. What does the crank and rods look like. I'm doing a Desoto 330 right now, and it was a free spinning engine in good shape and it's going to be a big number when done. I'm not trying to bust your bubble, but it might be cheaper to find a better rebuildable core. The Hemi bug can put you in the poor house if you get bit bad enough. Good luck with your build and keep us posted. Ken

 

o the inside of the engine looks pretty good. the heads took the worst hit. right now machine work only...i got it figured right at 1grand in machine work to have a good long block. this is not including any of the talked about bolt ons. this number mentioned is only if the pistons are able to be removed without busted them into pieces. if one piston breaks im just going to go ahead and buy new ones which will set me back another 800 or so.

the top of the pistons look pretty usable. they are not pitted or crusted up. appears that someone at somepoint poured oil down the spark plug holes. helped alot. i think that is why the bottom end was so good. the one cylinder wall was busted allowing the oil to go into the bottom half of the engine. thus preserving the bottom end from rusting.

i am happy with the pruchase still. the last hemi i had was not buildable. it had a piston hanging half way threw the block and had a impressive crack. none of it could be seen from outside of the block.


p.s. thanks for replying the bolt size

 

I made my own intake for a 341 Desoto hemi using the following pictures as a pattern. I bought 4 mandrel U bends for the intake runners. In one of the pictures you can see a small hose running from the thermostat housing to the water pump. With a remote housing the engine would get real hot before enough heat found it way thru the return hoses to make the thermostat open. That small bypass hose lets heat get to the thermostat without the engine getting too hot. It works real well.

Take a look at the pan rail on the block. My 354 truck engine just happens to be drilled for either the 51-53 pan or the later 392 style pan. Because of that I was able to buy a new 392 pan.

 

If you're not planning on making much pressure then it might live with stock pistons, the rods are a whole different story.
When you get a piston out post the oem casting number, its on the inside of the skirt, maybe there are some spares 'out there'.

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that is an awesome intake you made there!!!

i will do that on the oem casting numbers once i get them out.

the block serial number is l8-d8 which means its a 58 dodge truck engine. 354

kinda a let down since i was told it was a chrylser engine. owell. im sure he didnt realize it either.

so far ive been able to remove the harmonic balancer! yay. and the old big water pump. i tried a timing cover i purchased but none of the holes seem to line up. from what i read these truck engines are suppose to accept early 51-53 timing covers. did i read something wrong?

here is pictures of my block and timing cover i purchased off a member on here. also my head casting number if someone does not mind running the numbers on it for me. just for giggles.

 

It is a Chrysler hemi, just used in Dodge trucks. That head # is for the truck head. The truck hemi is slightly different than the car. You checked out the hemi Tech Index yet? You have the small timing cover, it's not going to fit. Note the hole @ 12 O'Clock vs 11 & 1 on the small one. Pan is 51-4 style also. The small one is 55-8 cars, you need a 51-4 car type

 

Shoot me an email if you still need a front cover that will fit.

 

After looking at the timing cover agian I think I can modify it to work. It will take a little effortbut once its done it will be one of a kind deal....

also got two pistons out! little effort. barely hit it with a wooden dowel pen and came striaght out. the other six seem like they are going to be stuborn.

i noticed why the truck was taken to the junkyard....engine had a spun bearing on one of the pistons

also the engine was rebuilt at some point because the connecting rods are stamped 1-8...

 

I can save you some time by telling you that it will not work. Well...unless you dont plan on running a water pump.

The rods are all stamped 1-8 from the factory. Unless it is a marine engine. Those are stamped 8-1.

 

The tin cover like the one in your hand is Dodge and 1955-up Chrysler. Yes, there are minor differences between the Do and the Chr.
No, the tin cover is not a good choice to 'try' and force fit. The 1951-1954 Chrysler 331 cast iron chain case cover and water pump will work.


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cool beans...i just scored a 340 balancer for $25. the original balancer on this hemi had seen better days. the rubber didnt look good and i snapped 4 of the 6 bolts holding the pulley on. lol. just a good excuse to relpace it.

still very excited about building this hemi. been wanting to do one for years and never had a chance to do it.

i will post pictures of the modified timing cover and progess pictures incase anyone else wants to make their own also. right now im enjoying the new batman movie in my warm living room. yay

 

Should I even bother to mention that a BBC water pump isnt going to work either?

 

why wouldnt it? everything ive read so far has said bbc water pump.
dont get me wrong.....i am diffenetly paying attention to everyone comments. if i make a bad choice then its on me.

 

I noticed that your block like mine is actually a poly block. Look at the deck above the cylinder bores and you will see reliefs for the poly pushrods to be used with poly heads. Non poly blocks do not have the small reliefs in the deck. See Farmer 12s 392 block on his page #65. The holes for the pushrods are round,no reliefs. The poly blocks are interchangable with hemi blocks when using hemi heads but not the other way around.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=463453&highlight=hemi post#65

 

thanks for posting...never noticed that. that 392 is purdy.

 

Please don't misinterpret what I say, but, we (the group) are actually trying to help you so that you don't have to find all of the problems/issues yourself.
As to what fits and what doesn't fit, try this: reformat your mental hard disc and start over believing that your engine is a 1954 Chrysler 331 with a giant overbore.

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Spot on Gary!! Does your heads have the square under carb passage or the tall/narrow one?

 

im not sure but here is a photo of the head....intake side. looks tall and narrow to me.

i need to get these parts in a parts washer. let them soak for awhile and scrub scrub scrub.

 

here is the bottom of the block. is it the same pattern as the 392?




here is the one bearing that looks spun to me.




the flywheel. i hope i can use this thing.




the pressure plate im not to sure if i can use or not. need to talk to more of you hemi gurus about this type of thing. i know im going to use the flywheel and bellhousing. i would loike to go with a 5spd toploader of somekind. does not matter if its a ford, gm, or mopar.

 

Appears to be the 51-4car & truck/Ind pan, as would be expected. Head photo too dark.

 

The bellhousing will only work if the depth is such that the splines on the trans will engage the disc, and the closer you get to 100% the better...so the question is, how deep is the bell?
As to the clutch, you will use whatever disc matches to whatever trans you use, and since the flywheel is drilled for a very large pp you can have it redrilled for something smaller. I recommend using the 69-71 340-383-440 unit. Plenty of replacements out there and not expensive.
If finances are an issue, you might check around for a clutch rebuilder and then reuse the pp that you have.

By chance, did Santa bring you a new camera ?

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The BBC water pump will work (with adapters) on a 55 and later car type block. The pump hole spacing is narrower on the 51-54 car, as well as the truck/industrial/marine blocks. You would use a SBC on those blocks with an aftermarket timing cover.

100% truck engine. You can see the tall center ports, as well as the rotators on the exhaust valves.

 

Not exactly true. All 301,331, and 354 poly blocks use the 55 and later car type timing cover and water pump spacing.

 

So tr waters.... From what your saying i will not need adapters and i will need a sbc water pump correct?

 

What is rotators?

 

You will need adapters, yes. Most of the aftermarket covers for your style block have the adapters built it, because things are so tight. Rotators are the type of valve spring retainers used on the sodium exhaust valves.

 

Looking at your pan rail on the block, your block is drill for either the early 331 style pan or the more common 392 style pan. Look at the front of the block on the rail and you will see two of the bolt holes much closer together than the other bolt holes. Thats the indicator to look for to see if your block will accept either pan.

 

got another piston out today. the others are stuck pretty good.

the oem number on the inside of the piston sleeve is 211

 

The oem pistons will have a 7-digit number...

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