Technical Dumping the points

48 merc 1/2 ton flathead 8 whats involved in getting rid of the points, she is already 12 volts with alt.

 

Jes' a screwdriver oughtta do it.

 

So...this thread is pointless?

 

Everybodys a comedian around here

 

Nothin but dumb***ory

 

getting rid of points is easy, but replacing them with something else takes some work

I just got home, 4500 mile trip, running the same points that were in my car when I got it, they are at least 30 years old. No problems at all. No way would I get rid of them.

 

car won't run without points. better put them back in. signed Dumb***

 

I’m on the points band wagon
Never had an issue with points
Some of the new condensers are questionable


You can go pertronix or any number of electronic ignition systems
Don’t matter points or electronic they all have there plus and minus

 

I think your asking for some type of replacement for the points. Try a search for Pertronix, just a heads up if you go this way you can not run solid core wires.

 

smart***ory is more accurate in my case.

 

Finding a good condenser is the what's needed. It think Sqirrel has the correct micro-farad #...

 

I just bought me a lifetime supply tube of that S2 or something points cam lube, so I guess I'm locked in now.

 

Now I know who to visit when I run out!

 

0.22 uF at 1000 VDC is a pretty good number for most of them.

 

I thought the pointless ignition was the way to go and it worked great for a while and then it let me down without any warning, in 5 oclock traffic. I went back to points and I will keep using them. HRP

 

I love points (and condensers)

 

To your point, either type of ignition system needs attention paid to the primary ignition circuit resistance. This is the total ohms in the wiring, coil, the 1/2 dozen connections, ballast etc., too high or too low, either will cause problems.

 

I have been running a Pertonix module in both my flatheads ( 1948 & 1933) crab dist. without any issues. You just need to get the Pertronix Coil with their Module and then take your ignition resister out of the syetem. The coil has the resistance needed.

 

I’ve been running a Chinese knock off of the MSD HEI distributor in my 8BA for 7,000 trouble free miles. I’m in the process of switching to a Mallory Unilite because it is a lot less bulky and more traditional looking. But for pure function, I can’t complain about my experience with the HEI unit. MSD replacement cap and rotor fit this unit.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/232421918465

 

Can’t hardly beat points,,,especially in a Flathead!
And a 48 Merc even,,,oh well,,,,electronics do work good,,,,but give Zero warning of failure.
I do use a Mallory unilite in my big block Mopar,,,with an MSD box,,,but that is because I am pouring a lot of fuel down the tunnel ram at very high rpm.
Even then,,,I have had a module fail without warning. Shut it off and go to fire it back up,,,dead as a door nail.
I always carry an extra unilite module with me.

Tommy

 

Good condensers are available, just like "Squirrel" says. I have these available. A lot of people like them because they look right. I have a bunch of them in the field for three years now without a single failure. (The resemblance to a traditional piece of American speed equipment is purely coincidental.)

 

I have both the Mallory Unilite and points. The Unilite since 2004 and the points for as long as I can remember. So far no problems either way. Call me lucky. Probably just jinxed myself.

 

It may not be enough to just keep points & condenser in the glovebox for "just in case", if the conversion is made usually the ballast resistor is removed, then maybe a screw or two gets misplaced, or some of the point specific wiring.

 

Just ditch the condenser and splice in a Ford TFI unit [points triggered electronic ignition compliments of "U Pull"]

 

Many years ago I thought about going electronic. An older mechanic friend of mine asked me if the points were working. I said they were. He said, then why get rid of them?

End of discussion.

 

They don't know how a points type ignition system works. Therefore they don't know how to troubleshoot or maintain them.

So they replace them with an electronic ignition of some sort that they REALLY don't know how it works. And troubleshooting and repair consists largely of throwing money and parts at them and hoping that something fixes them before their money runs out.

 

Are you guys sure this topic hasn't been covered already?

 

I think you will find this is one of those topics that will never be exhausted.