Most of those enthusiasts (easily identified by: hat on backwards, frequent use of "dude", speech limited to cliches) who appreciate that irregular idle have no idea what it is - they just bobble their little heads like sheep, and cannot tell a hot cam from crossing the 5/7 wires, a fouled plug, or an intake leak. You're impressing the wrong people. What is a 30-30 cam? It's 40 year old technology - a way for the factory to improve peak power on a 11-1 motor, while not killing the tappets and lobes in 10K miles. This is done by running very mild ramps - which increases compression bleed-off. It didn't work very well in terms of absolute power, mileage or flexibility but it did allow extensive street use without failure. After 1966, Harvey Crane and others marketed a revision of this cam (including computer smoothing of the profile, increasing the LSA slightly, and somewhat higher accel) that still lasts, produces more power, less noise and higher captured compression.
Well said, Have you checked out the Comp Cams "thumper series" designed to have rough aggressive idles with current camshaft technology.
Had a 65 Vette with 30-30 duntov, advanced cam 3 degrees set lash at .028" changed dist. curve. It had close ratio box and 4:56 gears, it would turn 8 grand. Topped out at 140 top end.
Your absolutely right. Jeez 40 year old technology. Now that I got that straight, I need to run out and get a new cam, while Im at it I better do away with those old 1940 drum brakes, my straight axle, oh yea get rid of that nasty old steel 32 coupe body for somthing cabon fiber in the shape of a bubble, cause I dont want to deal with 40 year old technology. Thats bad stuff!
I worked for G.M. for about 15 years--and we used to sell a hydralic version of the 30-30 cam--all I remember was we called it a "151" cam as that was the last 3 numbers of the part #.I've got that cam in my 37 coupe--been in the motor for almost 30 years and it sounds good--runs good but no clatter. Anybody remember the complete part # ?
My logo says it all, There is no better sound than the Duntov 30/30. Also like to give credit to Dan Shaw for the awesome artwork along with some kick ass striping by Josh Shaw.
i too have a 30/30 duntov. GREAT CAM!! you can hear the lifters for miles & it idles real wicked. once the RRRRR'S are up there she really pulls!!!
Way back in the 60's, the 30-30 was the standard cam for anyone running a sbc. Any car, any trans, any gear, we used it everything. Lots of lifter noise can be music or irritating... .
it would turn 8 grand This is a good time to retire this permanently. How fast the motor turns (before it explodes) has nothing (NO THING) to do with what cam it has, what valves, what heads, the engine brand, carburetor size, or what color skivvies you're wearing. It is almost completely a function of how rigid the valve gear is (pushrods, rockers) and how much spring tension there is. The stock 2 bbl. 8:1 165 hp "would turn 8 grand" if you used the 30-30 recommended spring set.
The stock 2 bbl. 8:1 165 hp "would turn 8 grand" if you used the 30-30 recommended spring set.[/quote]" I don't believe that for a minute, the stonger springs would help for sure but at some point that 2 bbl. would act as a governor and restrict air flow and RPM. Let the pissing begin!
The 365hp and 350hp 327's are the same engine except the 350hp had the milder hydraulic cam. Contrary to what fab32 says I have had both cams in my stock 2.02 valved 11.0 compression 327; the solid cam is quicker and faster and also pings less on 93 pump gas. You do have to keep after the valve lash, if you run the old heads screw in studs and roller rockers will help. I run 40 degrees total at 3000 rpm's and retain the stock vacuum advance. The motor has no bottom end below 3500 rpm's so you need some gear and a stick or a loose converter. Don't expect to win any economy runs with this combination however.
I once ran one in a 302 and one in a 327. They take a long time to wake up, 4k in the 302, 35ish in the 327. They do sound cool at idle, but are really not that good for performance (only .456 lift, heck most rv cams have more than that.) If you are going to run the modern heads, go ahead and get a matching camshaft that compliments the cylinder heads.
The first year for the .030/.030 was 1964 in the 365 HP Holley carbed/375 HP F.I. Corvette. Before that it was the earlier solid lifter Duntov. Frank
Ran one in my 57 Chevy PU back in 1976 with 3.73 gears, Muncie 4speed, and two carter WCFB's with 10.5 compression and fuelie heads. Noisy, but ran like a raped ape, but gawd did I hate adjusting those lifters.
If you havent already bought the 30/30 cam you can do a lot better with a more modern grind and not have to spin it 7500-8000 to make the power. depends on if you "want to" run it/ already have it or if you want to make the most power you can.
Buy This! Engle EP-25 Solid lifter. .507 Lift, 280 duration, 108 lobe centers http://englecams.com/catalog/old_catalog.php Made for light cars, 2500-6500 RPM 10-10.5:1 I had one of these in a DZ-302 Motor. It rivals the Duntov in sound....a great cam plus you can run the cool decal!
Fab 32 we did a direct comparrison with my friend Jerry's 66 L-79 Nova. The car ran stock with a set of headers, 4.56 gears, and 7" m&h slicks. Uncorked the car ran 12.90's at just over 100 trapping at around 6000 rpm's. With no othe changes except installing a Z-28 cam and a set of polylocks the car went over 2 tents quicker and 3 mph faster. We could have stuck in a set of steeper gears with the solid cam and it would have probably knocked off another tenth or two, where as the smaller duration hydraulic cam runs out of breath around 6200. I'll agree with you that a solid lifter 365hp 327 will perform poorly when insalled in a car with tall gears or an automatic that does not let the engine get into the power band, but when tuned and geared properly for its rpm potential the 30 30 cammed smallblock will eat the L 79.
when i was young thats what we ran . not many aftermarket cams then . probably the most "distinctive" sound anywhere . awesome lope !! they pull hard as people have said . had a '56 chevy (283-301) that would pull the wheels in 2nd . as said you do have to adjust them now & then , but run it youll love it !!!!!!!!!!! .. steve your a lucky guy ...........
You'll need to invest in a set of rocket arm clips. I still have my set somewhere. They clipped onto the stock Chevy rocker arm and blocked the oil holes. With out them or a specially modified V/cover, your inner fender panels got covered with hot oil not to mention your arms and shirt. I still remember how big a deal it was when "Poly-locks"(sp?) first came out. They were a huge up grade over the distorted rocker stud nuts supplied by Chevrolet. The 2 most iconic Duntov grinds were the 097 for the earlier 283s and the 30-30 for the 327s but there were a few more. My 63 327-340 HP Corvette was a solid lifter cam but not the 30-30 cam or the 2.02 valves. It was a great engine but the 365 was the king. The combination of the cam lope and the .030 valve lash makes a sound that can't be duplicated with hydraulic lifters. The other solid lifter cams with tighter lashes didn't clatter as much as the 365 cam. I think the sound is just as much a part of the lore as the times that they turned at the track.
but at some point that 2 bbl. would act as a governor and restrict air flow and RPM You're right, power will limit the RPM... eventually. However: this may only happen in high gear. In 1st, especially with a big axle and light flywheel, the engine will spin right off the clock.
Absolutely correct! The L-79 has only 222@ 50thou and .447 lift but the 30-30 is around 250 @50thou. anmd i believe .485 lift. the L-79 is perfect for auto cars with mild gears, you'd be hard pressed to find a better "vintage" cam for a SBC than one of these. in a light car with 4 speed and good gear go 30-30. Manuals work best, mine only pulls 5 inches on a good day. Everybodys right bout the sound, "Nothing sounds like a Duntov 30-30"
Had a 365 HP 327 blue printed by Hubbard Machine Shop in Hayward, CA that I bought super cheap thru a local throw away ad paper. Never run motor since complete build. Put it in a '65 Chevy Nova SS. Had a special built 350 with custom multiple clutch pack. Ran like a bat out of Hell. Problem was that it did not have positraction, and could not put wide tires on it. Just jump on it at low speed and the drive tire would try to pull the rear of car around and make it go sideways. E ticket ride. Was Covette yellow with balck interior. One of those should never have sold.
I agree completely. When I rebuilt my 65 327 Vette motor in the 80's - just had to have the 30/30 Duntov grind . . . heard it was the cat's ass. It was a 365 HP engine, 11.0 to 1, etc.. I really was'nt all the impressed with it. I then switched over to an Isky 280 Hyd with 1.6 rockers on the intakes and a 780 Holley . . . ran like stink. Now I know that I changed TOO many things at once for a fair comparison, but I actually liked the sound of the Isky cam better. It was a great engine - ran it into the mid 90's.
You never said what your rear ratio was in the Vette, maybe that's why you wern't impressed! If you can get your SB to idle down the 30 30 had a dance all it's own!
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