Hot Rods Dynamat fatmat lizard skin?????

So many articles on this subject I have searched and read seems most talk is about sound deadening., Im trying to keep the heat out. Hell I like the loud sound of gl*** packs so Im not worried about sound proofing, , Last year drove my son inlaws car and it was hotter in the car then outside! Tore the inside apart and I used the cheap peel and seal stuff and it helped. Currently got a few projects going on and helping a friend on his early 60s chevy C10 and again trying to stop the heat he will be driving his to in the 100 degree California summer heat. I want to do his and my projects at the same time, Whats some choices some of you have used FOR THE HEAT and had good results?

 

Doing all the panels inside my 46 Olds sedanette with dynamat. Believe me it gets HOT & cold down here and humid. None of that white stuff apart from sand.
Prepping the metal surfaces initially and sealing with 2pak paint. That way no moisture gets trapped between metal and dynamat, it won't rust. I've also heard that Lizardskin is good. The key with either product is quality preparation to ensure longevity.

 

I’ve heard alot of good things about lizard skin on the IH forum I frequent. Folks have the same issue with heat and many want to be able to wash out their vehicle interiors after off-roading so that rules out products like Dynamat which is also good from what I’ve read as well.

 

I tend to go overboard sometimes, when I built the Comet we sprayed both types of Lizard Skin on the bottom of the floor pan, the interior floor, the wheel wells, firewall, and inside the 1/4 panels. Just to be sure no heat from the exhaust made into the cabin I also installed Hush Mat on the interior floor. Needless to say the floor is cool and the car is solid sounding, the rumble of the engine is heard but that is by design.
These products work, no doubt about it.

 

I have had great luck with a product called Kilmat. It comes in 50mil and 80mil varieties.
You can get 36sqft of the 80mil for $52. Go ahead and do a price comparison to the Dynamat....
I have been running it in my 30coupe for a few years with no issues.
Also just did the floor in my buddies 32 sedan with it..
Chappy
Amazon.com: Kilmat 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening: Automotive

 

I used Fatmat, Fatmat floor liner and 40 oz. jute carpet padding. You can still hear the exhaust rumble and the 4 barrel sing but the truck sounds a lot more solid and interior heat is noticeably reduced.

 

There is a Dynamat knockoff that the black tar like material runs in the heat so you need to be careful not to get ahold of that.

 

I’ve had good luck with Dynamat. It’s not inexpensive but I’ve never seen it “weep” or come loose and it does a good job of sealing out noise and heat.

 

The FatMat Rattletrap is the best stuff I've ever used. Noise and heat goes away.

 

I've used Second Skin in several cars with no problems, similar to Dynamat. The best thing is the old style jute mat on the floor, pads the carpet, deadens heat and sound but don't know if you can even get it anymore.

 

I have used Fatmat on 2 of mine with very good results. I doubt if there is any real difference between Fatmat & Dynamat except for the price.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

I’m in the middle of rust removal on the floor of my 1961 Corvair. Do all these mats and lizard skin stick to primered metal? I’m trying to get everything in primer and seam sealer before anything else goes in .....Steven


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I've used the Noico 80 mil. on two projects. No problems with it and it's a bit less expensive than most of the other brands.

 

I don't see why not (but I'd paint it first to make sure it's sealed well). I stuck FatMat (or something similar) to my floor and roof after painting it with POR15 which left a very smooth shiny surface. Primer would have more grip.

 

I installed FatMat in my '62 Merc wagon, and have had good results with it. That said, the car is a giant rolling greenhouse and the small amount of heat given off by the engine is nothing compared to what comes through all that gl***!

Tinting the windows would help a bunch to knock down the heat, it just would go against the style of the car, and I can't do it. So the AC runs at full blast, and anyone riding in the back sweats......

 

The only product I've seen photos of doing this was a Eastwood product. That was pretty nasty.

I've got the Peel & Seal stuff in 2 cars for several years with no issues of separation or running or seepage.

Re Lizard Skin, there has been information posted in threads here on how to make your own DIY lizard skin product, using microspheres mixed into latex paint, which basically is what Lizard Skin is. It can be rolled or brushed on, or sprayed with a texture type spray gun.

 

Moms 56 Ford has Lizard Skin, my 56 Dodge has 2 layers of dynamat, and 1/2" dynapad on top, the lizard skin is cooler hands down.

I am so far vested, that ripping out the dynamat is almost impossible without watching money fly away.

Solution to my issue is DEI makes a heat shield that goes on the bottom of the floor. Pretty slick stuff, fibergl*** layer with reflective aluminum on heat side to dissipate heat.

 

My choice is Lizard Skin everywhere, Fatmat, or such, on floors and sides, then EZCool from lobucrod here on the HAMB, on the top.

 

My answer will be a little different from the others. I have used and ***ortment of products from Coolcar, the original before Lizard skin to home made ceramic coatings. Many of the available sound mats. Here is what I have found out. One of the Hamb members years ago did a real world test with Lizard skin with an infared temp gun. It's insulating properties were poor. Sound deadening, pretty good. My most recent project has generic sound mat followed by an insulator mat. Very noticeable improvements in both areas. My favorite has been a quality sound mat followed by Low E insulation. I recently searched and couldn't find a source that I used to use for that product. It is micro cell bubbles with a foil barrier on both sides. I use interior adhesive to adhere it to which ever surface that I install it on. I normally install it on the firewall, rear of cab, roof of cab and some in the doors if possible. If you have mufflers under the floor, I would install a layer on the floor also. No part of this is in the "traditional" realm but the results are very good. A small cab such as a model a or 32 need all the help they can get. A confined engine compartment doesn't allow near as much heat to escape. If you don't make long trips in your rod, none of this is important. 4 hours down the road in 100 degree heat is when you find out if you did your job the best it can be.

 

Before we sprayed the Lizard Skin on my project I did a test. I sprayed the heat barrier on one side of a piece of 20 gauge, let it dry and clamped it in a vice. I then heated the uncoated side with a heat gun, I checked the difference between the two sides, it was 53 degrees. In my mind that is a huge difference.

 

On my trucks I did the underside of the doghouse in lizard skin and then reinstalled the factory insulation.

On the next time climbing the g****vine my right foot did not get warm like it used to.

We also did the entire inside of the cab on my latest project and it is noticeably quieter

 

Has anyone sprayed the Lizardskin and then top coated with Raptor or a different type of bed liner? I would ***ume the Lizardskin is soft since it is basically latex paint.

Anyone tried this?
https://www.dodomat.com/products/dodo-dead-mat-pro-45-sheets#:~:text=Dead Mat PRO is a superior self adhesive, foil backed,reduce unwanted vibrations & structural noise.&text=FLEXIBLE: Dead Mat PRO has,better sound deadening & vibration control.

M*** loaded vinyl is good stuff.
https://www.acoustimac.com/soundpro...biYB35wbQKi8uP3BTA6t4z2uoeHhJwX8aAqSfEALw_wcB

 

Great info!

 

Then there is this stuff.
https://www.syneffex.com/thermal-insulation-coatings/

 

i did the doors on my 34 coupe last winter, and after reading many, many, old posts on the subject, the cheap *** in me went with the foil faced gutter repair **** from Lowes. i cant give you any scientific razzel dazzel about specs on insulation, or sound deadening, but it got good reviews from some of our members in extreme climates and it never fell off. it comes in 6" wide rolls, self adhesive, foil faced, and about 20 bucks to do 2 doors if i remember correctly. nice to work with, and cheap

 

I think that wfo guy was referring to the test I did several years ago. Tested Lizard Skin, DynaMat type stuff (BeQuiet) and EZ Cool. I think all three are good but EZ Cool is excellent. I sprayed the Lizard Skin on the bottom of my 40 coupe. That was 12 years and 30,000 miles ago and looks as good now as when freshly sprayed.

 

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Thanks everyone im ordering some lizard skin then gonna try the fatmat.

 

Another vote for the Noico 80. I paid an extra buck to get the black foil backing because it might be a long time before the project gets a headliner. I liked the idea of not having all the advertising covering the inside of my ride.

The current project is the 3rd vehicle I've used it in. There is a dramatic difference between the inside temp and the outside temp with the Noico there, and all 3 vehicles are a lot more quiet.

Before the Noico, I used the silver covered bubble insulation from Menard's and glued it to the body with spray glue, I had that in my coupe. After 5 years, the glue failed and the insulation kept falling, even after a re-glue. When I redid the coupe last winter, I added the Noico to it as well, I covered the entire inside of th car except the trunk lid (and I'm considering doing that as well), this past summer, the coupe is quieter and cooler then it ever was with the other stuff.

The Noico is sold in 36 sq ft boxes on Amazon fr around $65/box. I have about 2 1/2 boxes in the coupe, covering the entire floor, the entire roof, the firewall, and both sides of the car. The only things not covered are the inside of the doors and the underside of the trunk lid. Getting it inside the doors would be very difficult, it is a peal and stick product that has no small and is stable between 140 degrees F and -40 degrees F. It can be cut with a utility knife, peal the backing and stick it in place, can be re-positioned a little. Once in position, you roll it flat, its stuck pretty tight. Gene

 

Remember that there are two types of Lizard Skin, one is for sound and the other is for heat. They can both be used but they must be sprayed in the correct sequence.