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E-Brake cables / can you shorten them?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jeem, Feb 4, 2004.

  1. Jeem
    Joined: Sep 12, 2002
    Posts: 5,882

    Jeem
    Alliance Vendor

    You guys have never let me down. I am running an 8inch Fairmont/Granada rear in my F-100. I also plan on using an e-brake ratchet handle from a later Pinto and am going to mount it on the trans cover next to the shifter, anyways, the cables are too long, I need to cut them back about a foot on each side to attach to the pivoting bracket that is in turn pulled by the handle. My question is, can you shorten them and attach a similar barrel shaped end that allows them to attach to said pivot. The ends that are on there now look to be factory installed (duh) and are a one time deal.
     
  2. trailer-Ed
    Joined: May 15, 2002
    Posts: 1,979

    trailer-Ed
    Member
    from JC, MO

    Many hardware and machine shops have cable splicers to lengthen or shorten cables. There is a bolt on type that sipmly pinches the two ends of cable togeter, then there is a crimp type that*****s them together, but that method requires the use of the cripming tool, which can usually be rented from the machine shop. These splices are pretty cheap and work well, as I have done it many times. Just explian waht you are doing at the machine shop and they will know what you are talking about.
     
  3. Jeem
    Joined: Sep 12, 2002
    Posts: 5,882

    Jeem
    Alliance Vendor

    This isn't so much a splice, it's just the end of the cable, but I imagine it is similar to what you are talking about. Thanks
     
  4. Crestliner
    Joined: Dec 31, 2002
    Posts: 3,030

    Crestliner
    Member

    I used copper wire sleeved that crimped with a special tool. That was before I retired from the electric company. If you know some one that does, see if they can get you a # 6 and # 4 copper splice that is about 4" long and a nico tool. One of the two should fit.
     
  5. I've made up cables by crimping a small piece of tubeing on the ends. You could also slip a piece of tube over the cable, then braze the end of the cable.
     
  6. Paul2748
    Joined: Jan 8, 2003
    Posts: 2,442

    Paul2748
    Member

    Ive shortened cable on three cars by brazing a big glob of braze at the length I needed and then trimming it down to the correct size I need.. Usually use a dremel tool with the little disks.

    I put the braze on before cutting them to length. This stops them from unravelling. At the point where you want the braze "ball" to be, stick a small pointed tool into the cable to open it up a bit so the braze flows in. Might be okay not to do this, but I think its insurance. The first car I did this to was twenty years ago and never had a failure.
     
  7. Canuck
    Joined: Jan 4, 2002
    Posts: 1,104

    Canuck
    Member

    I've taken a short length of brass rod and drilled a hole the same diameter as the cable through it from side to side. Countersunk the hole on one side approximately half way through. Inserted the cable through the small hole side to the point that I want to trim. Brazed cable to brass rod in the countersunk area and then trimmed the excess cable off and smoothed the braze to make end rod shaped again. Do it carefully and it looks factory.

    Same as doing cables on bikes and motorcycles.

    Jim
     
  8. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,589

    manyolcars

    Home Depot sells the crimp on ends so you can do whatever you want. Dont need no steenkin crimp tool, jus a beeg hammer [​IMG]
     
  9. Crestliner
    Joined: Dec 31, 2002
    Posts: 3,030

    Crestliner
    Member

    crimping tool squeezes it from all sides, a hammer flattens it and lets the cable pull through when in a hard pull. So a steenen tool is better.
     
  10. flt-blk
    Joined: Jun 25, 2002
    Posts: 4,941

    flt-blk
    Member
    from IL

    I have used the Home Depot ferrul's and a BFH. Broke twice
    on me. Even used a punch to try and get a better crimp.

    If it breaks again I'll try the brazed ball Idea.
    TZ
     
  11. colorado51
    Joined: Feb 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,576

    colorado51
    Member

    What about those u-shaped cable clamps that they sell at Home Depot, are those things strong enough for an e-brake?
     
  12. Gennie Shifter sells a piece that is drilled for two cables and uses a set screw to lock it down.

    I've had good luck through drilling a piece of round steel then cross drilling and tapping for an 8-32, 10-32 or 1/4-28 set screw to make my own cable lock.
    Do two of the cross drill bits for a little extra insurance.

    You may want to lay some acid core solder into the area where you're cutting the cable to keep it from unraveling.
    (Wash it with baking soda/water afterward to neutralize the acid.)
    Then install the sleeve and tighten the setscrews.

    I wouldn't be afraid to use JB Weld inside a sleeve either.
    Just make sure the cable is as clean as you can get it.

    Here's a pic of the Gennie Shifter cable lock.
    For a Jag rear, but it's what you get with all the Gennie Shifter E-brakes.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Get it done at a garage/overhead door shop.They have all the crimpin stuff you need.My buddy has done a bunch for me,never a problem.Free too.....Shiny
     
  14. Jeem
    Joined: Sep 12, 2002
    Posts: 5,882

    Jeem
    Alliance Vendor

    Thanks Hamb'strs I knew you wouldn't let me down!

     

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