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early chevy straight sixes???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by hotrodhell, Jan 6, 2005.

  1. hotrodhell
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 33

    hotrodhell
    Member
    from san diego

    im looking for early speed parts info pics websites all directly realted to chevy sixes. i would especially like to se some pics of hopped up motors. and yes i have searched. through like 14 pages didnt really find anything
     
  2. pigpen
    Joined: Aug 30, 2004
    Posts: 1,624

    pigpen
    Member
    from TX USA

  3. Patricks Performance, I dont know if their still in business.
     
  4. droplord49
    Joined: Jan 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,701

    droplord49
    Member
    from Bryan, Tx

  5. Revhead
    Joined: Mar 19, 2001
    Posts: 3,027

    Revhead
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    My brother and I recently did alot of looking for chevy 6 parts. here's some info.

    Intakes:
    offenhauser makes 2x1 and 3x1
    Clifford makes 1x2, 1x4, and a side draft triple weber
    Those are new ones

    Used brands you can find on ebay are:
    Nicson
    Tattersfield
    Fenton
    Edelbrock
    there's another that I'm drawing a blank on....

    Exhaust:
    Fenton cast headers
    Night prowlers split cast iron
    Night prowlers steel tube headers
    Hot rods of Norco steel tube headers

    Dress up:
    Wayne valve cover and side cover
    Offenhauser valvecover
    lots of chrome ones around

    There's a few people who grind cams. We got one from a guy that sells them on Ebay I'll try to get his info for you if I can find it.

    If you're rich.. 12-port head
    Wayne Mfg.

    Here's some links. Jim Carters is a pickup place but has a lot of engine parts.

    Patrick's
    Night Prowlers
    Hot Rods of Norco
    Jim Carters
    Filling Station
    Natl. Chevy Assoc.
     
  6. hotrodhell
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 33

    hotrodhell
    Member
    from san diego

    all you guys rock...im gonna be puttin a straight six in my project that im gethering parts for
     
  7. Just to check, I assume you are dealing with a full pressure oiling 235? Any 53 PG car or 54 and later all are full pressure. Earlier 235 or even earlier 216 are not good choices for hopping up.
     
  8. hotrodhell
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 33

    hotrodhell
    Member
    from san diego

    because of the splash oiler right?
     
  9. Revhead
    Joined: Mar 19, 2001
    Posts: 3,027

    Revhead
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    one more thing.. replace the fiber timing gears with the aluminum set that is available. You can get it through napa.
     
  10. Depending on what you're doing, you can interchange alot of stock parts too. Transmissions up to 62 will bolt to your bellhousing, giving you the choice of an open driveline. I'd go balls out and get a 261 if you're hellbent on building a Chevy, or get a GMC. They are everything stock that a Chevy is built up.

    FWIW, I have a 216 I wanna put in a modified project someday. If I could just get off my ass... [​IMG]

    Jay
     
  11. [ QUOTE ]
    Just to check, I assume you are dealing with a full pressure oiling 235? Any 53 PG car or 54 and later all are full pressure. Earlier 235 or even earlier 216 are not good choices for hopping up.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    What he said...

    I got MOST of my performance stuff from Langdon's (stovebolt engine company, few posts up). Tom Langdon is really helpful and knows these engines like no one else. He'd be a great person to talk to about what you need to build an engine that's both quick and reliable. I'd suggest that you give him a call.

    Stay FAR away from anything that's not pressure oiled, especially, if you plan to do ANY highway driving (basically anything sustained over 50mph). The non-pressure oiled earlier engines will beat themselves to death at highway speeds. Ask me, I killed one.

    Stacey
     
  12. Kinky6
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,765

    Kinky6
    Member

    Check the Inliners site for more info on early sixes with oil pumps vs. the dipper and splash versions. A 235" or 261" from '54 to '62 would be a good bet. They have lists of serial numbers to help I.D. blocks and heads.

    Use the '58 and later passenger car head, serial # ends in 848, will give slightly more compression ratio than any other head without having to shave it. If you swap this head onto a 261", you will have to drill two small steam holes beside # 3 & 4 bores; use a 261" head gasket for a template.

    A 261" with a mild overbore can become a 270", and will be cheaper to build than a GMC 270" or 302". Patrick's or Langdon's can give you more info on this, and supply the parts, as well.

    Whatever you do, convert your block to a full-pressure oil filter, rather than the old by-pass filter. There is info on the Inliners Tech Tips on doing this, must be done when block is torn down for a rebuild. 235's have to be machined for this. Most, if not all 261's have a provsion for this on the side of the block.

    Now, get inline! Later, Kinky6 [​IMG]
     
  13. markanthony
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 340

    markanthony
    Member

    Here's a side view...

    '54 235ci .60 over- 265 degree cam... not pretty, but it gets me back and forth...
     
  14. markanthony
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 340

    markanthony
    Member

    and from the front
     
  15. Deuce Rails
    Joined: Feb 1, 2002
    Posts: 2,016

    Deuce Rails
    Member

    For inspiration, check out the most recent Rodder's Journal.
     
  16. hotrodhell
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 33

    hotrodhell
    Member
    from san diego

    would 300 bux be a good price for a complete 235 with 848 head block is a 57
     

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