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Early Ford "Cartridge" Shackles, any Tricks to Install??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NealinCA, Feb 18, 2004.

  1. NealinCA
    Joined: Dec 12, 2001
    Posts: 3,477

    NealinCA
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Does anybody have any tricks to installing the OEM style cartridge style shackles?

    We have been fighting them. It seems that they go into the spring OK, but the perches are a bear.

    We reamed the perches to .750", tried heating the perches, freezing the shackle cartrigdes, machined a driver to fit, etc. Still ended up getting stuck and mushrooming. Had to get the BFH to get them in, but it wasn't right.

    We have a few more sets to do, but want to do it right.

    I don't really want to use the "street rod" style, with urethane bushings.

    Any ideas? Tricks?

    Thanks,

    Neal
     
  2. enjenjo
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 2,778

    enjenjo
    Member
    from swanton oh

    Make a tapered sleeve, drive them through the sleeve into the perch. It keeps them from mushrooming, and if they do a but, it squeezes them down as they go in so the still fit. make the sleeve taper from about .800 to .750 over two inches or so.
     
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,548

    alchemy
    Member

    I've just ground the outside of the bushing a bit til the fit was just snug. Then use lots of oil while pushing it in with sockets as drivers. On one I ground a little too much so the fit was looser, so I drove it back out and staked it a bit.

    alchemy
     
  4. NealinCA
    Joined: Dec 12, 2001
    Posts: 3,477

    NealinCA
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Engenjo - If I understand you correctly, you are referrring to the Model A sleeve style.

    I am trying to do the 32-48 press in, rubber encased in sheetmetal style, what I call cartridge style.

    Any thoughts there?

    Neal
     
  5. Do you have a press?
    Or a big vise?

    Seems like they ought to go in ok by simply pressing them in.

    Course, I'm here and you're there and it always looks easier from the viewpoint of the guy not doing it.

    You're probably familiar as well with the rule of thumb about interference fits.
    IE: approx .001 interference for every 1" of diameter.
    Dunno if that helps, but if you're trying to get a couple of pieces together that are say - .005 different, it could be tough.

    I'd be careful using oil for assembly.
    If the rubber is the old style stuff - not neoprene - oil will attack it and deterioration will set in fairly quick.
     
  6. zgears
    Joined: Nov 29, 2003
    Posts: 1,576

    zgears
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    Engenjo - If I understand you correctly, you are referrring to the Model A sleeve style.

    I am trying to do the 32-48 press in, rubber encased in sheetmetal style, what I call cartridge style.

    Any thoughts there?

    Neal

    [/ QUOTE ] i beleve there differant sizes. my 41 rear was a one off size. i gave up and whent with the plasitc ones.
     
  7. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    I would measure the new parts and look up Ford specs on this--it's a bear of a job, but mushrooming after all the work you did?? I betcha they're repro parts and are bigger than they should be.
    The Ford installation tool is simply a special forged C-clamp with a cup to go over the protruding stud. The level of trouble you're getting would suggest the parts are wrong. Once you get a spec, you could probably simply spin the things against abrasive paper to turn down adequately.
    What year of parts are you fighting here? I must have some relevant numbers somewhere.
     
  8. NealinCA
    Joined: Dec 12, 2001
    Posts: 3,477

    NealinCA
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Bruce - The ones in question are 32 front shackles, and yes they are new repro units, from Sacramento Vintage Ford, I think.

    The next ones I need to do are rear. I have 36 rear radius rods, a 40 spring and 41 replacemnet shackles. I think this should all fit together, but some Ford specs would be great.

    C9 - I think we will mic the next ones polish in a lathe if necessary. These were about .002-.003" interference, but since they are tin, we thought they would press in OK. Guess not. [​IMG]

    Neal
     
  9. NealinCA
    Joined: Dec 12, 2001
    Posts: 3,477

    NealinCA
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    [ QUOTE ]
    I would measure the new parts and look up Ford specs on this--.... I must have some relevant numbers somewhere.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Bruce - Let me know if you find those Ford specs.

    Thanks,

    Neal
     
  10. Eyeball
    Joined: May 10, 2001
    Posts: 1,668

    Eyeball
    Member

    I ran a 3/4 in hole saw through the holes and they went in pretty good. I did destroy a set tryn' to force them in without cleaning it up first too.

    BTW I got mine from MAC's
     
  11. enjenjo
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 2,778

    enjenjo
    Member
    from swanton oh

    I was talking about the rubber in sheet metal style.
     
  12. NealinCA
    Joined: Dec 12, 2001
    Posts: 3,477

    NealinCA
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    [ QUOTE ]
    I was talking about the rubber in sheet metal style.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I reread your post, I understand it now. That sounds like a good idea. Thanks, I will give it a try.

    Neal
     
  13. TooMany2count
    Joined: Jan 6, 2003
    Posts: 1,373

    TooMany2count
    Member
    from Cahokia,IL

  14. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    So far no numbers. Catalog and wheel alignment manuals gave every other dimension in the area, as did the cumulated bulletins. Early service bulletins out on loan
    But I am thinking you don't need numbers; Your parts are clearly too big to be pressed in if they mushroom without going in, so just measure the holes, set a caliper or micrometer to a hair bigger, and cut them down til they are no mor than a thousandth bigger than the hole. If no lathe, spinning them in a drill press would do the job just fine, running them against an abrasive and measuring frequently at several points. When you get OD about right, cut a very short taper on one end of the shell as a starter, lube it, and press it in. A big forged C clamp with a socket arranged to protect the stud and press against the outer shell would be a very close approximation of the KRW tool, or just mail your suspension system to me and I'll sick the KRW presseriner on the nasty little devices...
     
  15. NealinCA
    Joined: Dec 12, 2001
    Posts: 3,477

    NealinCA
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Bruce - I am sure we can get the rest of these done by doing just what has been said. Polish the shell in the lathe to .751", press in with large C-clamp or vice using a machined driver to fit over the stud.

    I was just curious on the Ford spec so I could go back to the vendor and show them how much their repro part was out of spec, but it probably doesn't matter at this point...

    Thanks,

    Neal
     
  16. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    I'll keep on looking and will post when I find anything. I know there were several varants from '28-48. I've probably got the biggest heap of old Ford paper on the east coast, and those numbers gotta be in there somewhere.
     
  17. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,001

    Mart
    Member

    Neal,
    I had a helluva job getting them in on my 39 axles in my coupe.
    I ran a drill through the holes, and filed about 6 flats on the bush assemblies. I made up a sort of puller device, using 2 long studs and 2 pieces of flat stock, specially shaped to fit the end of the bush (kinda radiused) and just pulled them in. The first one I trashed by pounding in with a socket and a hammer. Filing the flats made it less of an interference fit.
    Mart.
     
  18. Fortyfordguy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2002
    Posts: 643

    Fortyfordguy
    Member

    I think the aftermarket shackle studs are made a bit too large. I had the same problem installing them on my '39 Coupe. As suggested above, a little cleanup of the outer shell helps get them in.

    I looked at the reprint I have of the 32-40 Ford Service Bulletins. They do not give the o.d. of the shackle studs. they do mention that the truck studs were slightly larger in diameter than the passenger car studs. They show pretty diagrams of the KR Wilson BV-111 Stud Replacer, the KRW V-170 Stud Remover, and another kit for the L-Z and Ford Truck studs. If only I had those tool now.....
     
  19. junquewerkz
    Joined: Mar 16, 2002
    Posts: 96

    junquewerkz
    Member

    Neal:

    Going thru the Green book, I see that part # 40-5463-B, 32-34 front upper shackle stud is 3.19" long, .75" dia. In fact, all front shackle studs that go in the perch are indicated at .75" dia.

    For the rear: part # xx-5713 are all indicated to be 3/4" dia.

    Hope this helps. I also have this chore to look forward to soon.

    Paul/CA
     

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