Technical Early ford tie rod ends for split wishbone?

I see some early style cars running the old ball and socket tie rod ends for the pivot on the split bones. For those running this set up is there anything I should be looking out for? Problems? pitfalls? Considerations.?

Thanks.

 

I plan on using the 32-34 style with some so-cal hangers. There might be others that are better, but I like the vintage style of these.

 

When you are shopping for these they come with the grease fitting on either the top or bottom. I like the ones in the above photo, they are safer in my mind, you won't wack a finger washing off the ch***is. Bob

 

I always liked how Fred Rowe welded his directly into the bones on his '28 modified (no adjustment); looked really smooth. The current crop with the ends screwed onto threaded bungs look kinda "stretched out" to me.

 

Hmmmm I must be living under a rock I've never seen those used.

 

the chevy ones I used have holes for a cotter pin to slide down the end cap slot and lock it in place.

 

^^^Ford has the same.

 

Mine are 32's. Not sure where the fitting is? Dosent matter much.

Do they bind?

 

A member on here is a machinest and has some of those adapters for sale, I made my own before they were available and they are a pita to make. The other consideration is getting just the right length.

 

I can make my own adapters. That is easy for me. I am more concerned on their function.

 

Rusty: This is a trick we learned from our fore fathers. I've seen them in very old magazines. Tim btw: I'm coming up there @ May 29th.

 

Rusty: I've sen these in some very old hot rod type magazines so they've been used for quite a while. btw: I'm coming up there @May 29th. Tim

 

I think they look goofy if a guy isn't using the same kind of ends on the tie rod.

 

Soon I'm doing a more vintage style ch***is and using early ends on the radius rods and tie rod and drag link. I agree everything needs to tie together. In the past I've had Richard at I think it's called the V8 garage make my tie rod and drag link shafts. Only thing is, I've tried to find original studs as some say the repros are soft and don't have quite the right taper?

 

I am running 32-34 spindles with the same style tie rod ends.

 

I've HEARD, but no experience, to use good originals because their so much stronger, and I have seen in restoration magazines that have them for sell to use originals if available.

 

I used them om my pickup and have never had any problems. HRP

 

From what I remember back in the day, those were kind of the standard for most backyard builders.

 

Around here, before the introduction of those modern street rod threaded bungs, we cut the threaded ends off a '35 up Ford tie rod and welded them into the split ends of the wishbone.

 

I'd be concerned with the possibility of bump steer with the ball and cup held in place with a spring.. no?

 

Hot Rod Primer shows tie rods used in the bones which are very safe. The ball and socket as shown in the lead photo is the same principle but doesn't provide the same movement as the later tie rod does. They both work and reproductions are available that screw directly in to the end of the bone. The Early Ford Store of California had some in stock the other day when I visited them. I am not sure who made them but I want to say Haze is the company. I believe usage is all about the looks rather than safety.

 

The company is Haze City Specialties in Corona CA. Here is a photo of their set up. They have a website.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...early-ford-tie-rod-ends.923817/#post-10752024

Here you go. Ordered a set myself for my project

 

I started in that direction on one of my projects but changed my mind and went with the more conventional route

early construction photo:

 

Ugg! When did all become buy this, buy that?

Please explain why this would induce bump steer?

Nobody has yet to answer my question.

 

I have been hesitant to weld them, also thinking they might be too long. Is there a magical spot under the frame where they should mount? Always understood the longer the better. 2" shorter would put the frame bracket right at the feature line on the frame.

 

I do not have any ON road experience with them, I cant help with OP's questions.

 

I don't think there would be enough deflection to effect directional stability. Even tho there is a spring inside, I have never really seen any "play" or "motion" in these style ends in my experience with similar ends on the steering gear of heavy equipment. I always felt the spring tension compensated for wear on the ball and discs, between adjustments.

 

Big Deuce.....do you have any pics of the frame mounts for the radius rods?....Those look trick1

 

w.est1946.com/ch***ismountingtabs.aspx
Item "A" , it looks plain in the pic but mine came in with the stamped detail like a forging.