Technical Early Hemi FMD engine

has some cool early Hemi left overs I has a plan make a FMD engine.

Idea was this a racy FH to my coupe but one day a customer brought in early Hemi in my shop for full race so hottank, filled block, bore/deck/O-ring, new caps, I order new Bryant crank, HH rods, Ross pistons.

So I has a racy FH to my 32 5W coupe, Merc 41 block, baby stroke 4” crank, 21A rods Potvin 425 cam, Kong distributor, L&S Racing heads, 4 LZ carbs on a Mulit intake with inline fuel line with early Wittek clamps.
It will has a LZ transmission, stdd 32 frame /cross.

Then on another std 32 ch***i but that has a 34 cross it will be a 39 Lasalle trans and a early Hemi 392 ( Cragar adaptors )
This Hemi will has most std parts but 10 in comp, hotter cam and a vintage Wriand dual carb intake. Dual AFB’s.
Std waterpump and fuelpump, chromed std valvecovers.

-So what ch***ie to the coupe, don’t know…

But get the Hemi stuff I bought some parts with a 392 nice std engine.
This is a older funny spare engine with a blower.
I sold the intake and blower.
I sold the rest of parts ( but bought it back ! )
The block has grinded off engine mounts bored .120 but not filled and has splayed aluminium caps.
Hmm, got an idea…
Fill the block and race it.

I has a std crank, old but new alu rods, old used decent pistons ( cant say comp now ) I has a gear drive, the 555 heads 331 1954 ( will get HH guides/valves, std exh, 2.2” intake ) I also has a Hilborn system and the distributor/pump adaptor.
I has a magnet fresch from Cirello.
I has this old Isky cam ( roller or flat tapped ? ) Se picture but dont know lift but I think 550” ( roller )
? )
I has std rocker system but I might need need something better.
( if any one has for sale = contact me )
If new, what to use ?
Cam might be grinded, but any idea what it can be.

My idea it migh easy can be maybe 700 HP on methanol in a dragster ( 1/8 mile )
Can be pretty fast and fun with a PG and modern slicks.
I has no ch***ie and this is now a engine idea/project.
Based out of older stuff I did not really payed for.

But the other 392 and FH is $$$.

Ideas of comp, cam rockerarms/shafts etc.
Would profile work to flat tapped

 

What block is .125 over? If it's a 331/354 you're good. 392 is way over, .030 for street use is usually max. Even with a filled block .125 in a 392 might/probably be too much...

 

Its a 392 old prepped ol funny car ( met ) block.
Nice block, honed, splayed caps but not filled (?)
Ok, as I thought no blower and filled max ( not super high RPM or HP….it might work.
Again, I did really not pay here for this motor.
Any idea of this cam ?
Heard old guy p***ed today.

 

.125 on a 392, don't think I'd risk the money.

 

The cam is a hardface overlay cam - uses special chilled iron flat tappets - which are pretty much impossible to find. If you have the lifters that go with it, great . . . if not . . . find something else.

If it was mine, I'd have Bullet Cams grind you a new roller cam.

 

Is the rear main on the crank as bad as the picture shows?

 

Or see if there's enough left to sleeve the block back to standard or .030.

 

Bored&Stroked, can you explain what ; "special chilled iron flat tappets" is ?
In stock eliminator we has ramps like a roller cam ( I use 60 mm big lobe from Bullet ) and I use Trend tools steel lifters PCD coated.

The crank is a new grinded .010 it's just the mess they put there ( bearing lube )

I can sleeve the block but if filled with concrete all the way up do it matter really if the wall get 0.045" thicker ?
A sleeve is not always the best thing to do.

 

Thinking there were "chilled iron solid lifterts that would match that cam. As far as that block, I guess there's only one way to find out for sure. Reportedly there's a guy running a filled 331 that was taken out to 392 Std. which is way past the 354 std max for a street 331.

 

If there was a decent sonic tester but I dont know anyone has one. A buddy has it but he dont trust it.
I know back then when I started work with engine in mid 80’s its was told no V8 was good for 60 over.
My own race engines has been std Chrysler 383 at 30 over then new MP 426 Hemi block 60 over and my new Jason Line block is 60 over ( NHRA max is 80 over ) and walls is around 5/8” thick, so a overkill as its not has over 700 HP but rings is thin at 0.7 mm. That engine is near 50K.
When I started it was a std block one find easy for peanuts and a Lunati scheater cam with lifters and TRW pistons and with a oilpump, bearings and a good set of springs it was maybe 1K.
Intake and carb was std and macining I did myself.
Headers was Jack Davis from Ontario, Ca.
Rings was Speed Pro lathed thinner in brown box as they called from a guy in San Marcos, Ca.

The problem with Trend lifters is they is really expensive and with coating its insane.
I guess if I need those on this old cam its the same price as a new Bullet roller cam and decent quality roller lifters.
How a flat tapped lifter can be so insane expensive I don't know ( 3K for a set )
If a roller cam - what brand lifters is out there today that not fall appart ( that can be bought ) Morell's ?
-My idea here this should not get this as a overkill but I allready has change the old alu rods to a set new AutoVerdis highend H beams plus I guess I will get new pistons with more comp aswell so…

 

I’ll just renember I sold a set to a 440 locally ( Trend tool steel but not coated ) and barley used and they is diameter .094” and according to ’internet’ they is 1.892”tall but early Hemi is 1.814”.
I will get them later today.
They come from a buddys 440 stock elimintor engine I builded years ago,
( Before in stock we use the Schubeck ceramic lifters but they worked great but could 'explode' if got lose )
I has help him before and he told me I get them for free.
He installed a roller cam in his Charger but now sold the car.

-Will they work/fit ?

 

I got the Trend not coated lifters.
They is equally tall as a 392 std lifter, se picture.
A buddy use the Rockerarm Unlimited to his blower FMT 392 ( 555 heads ) with Hot Heads 2.02 intake/std exh diameter valves, but this kit is not super expensive but it's pricy but nice stuff.

I also find Webster has std style adjustable, but I wonder how a std rocker stand handle a .550 lift ?

Performance Rocker Arms

WEBSTER HEADS | ADJUSTABLE 392 ROCKER ARMS

 

The low deck hemis had thicker walls than the high decks do. With sonic check .125 is usually doable. On a 392 for street use .030 is max, filled racing block is more, just a question on how much is too much

 

I always has try convince myself in a new project - if I has some parts I could make it affordable, but the experiance has told me it's not... it's totally the opposite !
When I got into 426 years ago I had the Hemi 6 qt oilpan, camcover and distributor ( I had the old DC with adaptor to fit the low block ) and a SFI damper.
I got the MP block and heads they relised late 90's and I found a std intake.
I also bought the MP crank and rods but I soon sold it as the OEM parts was lighter, the the OEM heads flowed better, several new cams... so the show went on.
I bought parts from Barton but could not get me the HP I did like to see, so it was a long road ( over 15 years ) get me 1.25 sec under the index in A/SA.
A long way to has a free camcover !
Experiance told me it was way better get a complete engine, but as I can do machine work that holds one back but how much is experiance one 'bought' worth in time = that's the real question.

My road to the Merc 41 FH started the same ol' story as now 4 cracked 59 AB blocks and when I finally got that nice ported 41 block it was cracked and repaired and along with all expensive vintage speed parts ( many travell miles ) is now a very expensive engine.

Well, what can one say, I guess I start as usual, but the good thing the road is often fun.
I guess I'm just a fool.