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Easiest cheapest fuel line?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by DirtyDave, Feb 20, 2013.

  1. Yeah , I wouldn't use "cooper tubeing" either!
     
  2. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,756

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Every parts store sells a mild steel tubing with protective coating made specifically for fuel line. Same thing the car manufacturers use. It is cheap and easy to bend and flare. Will last at least 20 years before it rusts out, longer if you take care of the car. How long do you expect to own it?
     
  3. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 973

    Shaun1162
    Member

    3/8" brake line works exceptionally well. It's easy to bend, and if done with a cheap bender you can pick up for like $10 at a parts store it'll look clean and professional.

    DEFINATELY wouldn't use copper with compression fittings... That's scary (and yes I'm sure people have done it, but why take a chance with fuel?!)
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
  4. DirtyDave
    Joined: Sep 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,528

    DirtyDave
    Member

    peeps from my 'hood may steal the copper to sell it for tracfone money!
     
  5. DirtyDave
    Joined: Sep 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,528

    DirtyDave
    Member

    I'll own it until someone offers the right $$$!

    :D
     
  6. Roger Walling
    Joined: Sep 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,149

    Roger Walling
    Member

    "3/8 steel flare that they sell by the stick with fittings" ?

    Are you guys refering to ready made brake lines?

    I use it all the time for gaslines. It is especially good to fasten the rubber flex hose on the end with a clamp. The flare prevents it from sliding off.

    By measuring exactly the length you need, you can get different lengths to make up the correct length. It is easier than using coiled tubing and gives a nice stright line when your done.
     
  7. S_Mazza
    Joined: Apr 27, 2011
    Posts: 363

    S_Mazza
    Member

    It's also double walled and quite strong.
     
  8. DirtyDave
    Joined: Sep 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,528

    DirtyDave
    Member

    That makes sense but it never hurts to ask when there are that many experienced builders to chime in. Always appreciate the inputs!
     
  9. 270dodge
    Joined: Feb 11, 2012
    Posts: 742

    270dodge
    Member
    from Ohio

    Back in the day, when Mother MOPAR was issuing the Max Wedge and Hemi cars she warned us from using aluminum or copper tubing for fuel lines. It seems that copper and aluminum are good conductors of heat and are prone to vapor lock. Steel is a poor conductor and stainless is even worse. That fact makes them a better choice. Ma Mopar had some good engineers working on this and I'm thinkin that I could believe them!
     
  10. DirtyDave
    Joined: Sep 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,528

    DirtyDave
    Member

  11. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    I was going to mention the heat thing about copper, but was beat to the draw....
    Used it on a welder engine once, it kept quitting on hot days. Took a long time to figure it out and put in steel!
     
  12. jazz1
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,601

    jazz1
    Member

    I used 3/8ths aluminum,, I had used the greenish steel line on my daily driver and it perforated 5 years down the road so I don't buy it anymore..Ready cut and flared steel lines are ez also. I am running a carbed engine.
     
  13. J. A. Miller
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 2,362

    J. A. Miller
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Central NY

    DirtyDave, the link you posted to amazon says that it is "zinc plated stainless steel" what the hell is that? If it is stainless, who needs zinc plating!
     
  14. We get this nickel silver stuff from a locale distributer flares and bends really nice also holds a polish well if your bent that way.
     
  15. DirtyDave
    Joined: Sep 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,528

    DirtyDave
    Member

    After further review prolly not Stainless based on it attracts a magnet? I didnt buy because it said Stainless, bought based on ~buck a foot.
     
  16. Over in the UK we use Cunifer for brake lines and, sometimes, for fuel lines. It is an alloy of copper and nickel - doesn't corrode like steel and doesn't work harden like copper. Very easy to do good flares. Looks nice too. It is the product of choice for any quality restoration.

    Expensive here and doubly so in the USA.
     
  17. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    I can't beleive it took until post 33 for someone to mention brake line. that's what I've always used. cheap and easy to get. not that it matters anymore, but if I recall correclty NSRA won't approve copper line for safety designation.
     
  18. BobMcD
    Joined: Jan 25, 2013
    Posts: 322

    BobMcD
    Member

    Another vote for steel tube from your local auto parts store. . It looks good and will last along time.
     
  19. I bought my last roll of steel fuel line from the autoparts for 18 bucks. 25', easy to work with and genuine steel fuel line.
     
  20. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,889

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I've used steel and aluminum both. Steel is much harder to bend or flare, and prices for the two are about equal. Last one I did in aluminum, and it was $16 for a 25' roll. Very easy to bend and work with.
     
  21. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 65,130

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I pick up the sections of 5/16" line at NAPA,,it's already double flared and they carry br*** fittings to put the lines together to increase the length. HRP
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013
  22. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I use "Bundyflex" sections also because they are straight and look professional when in place. Usually you can locate and electric fuel pump or fuel filter in a strategic place so that you don't need excessive distances requiring rolled tubing. If you plan it out you can do a neat and clean job. Don't get coerced into using large tubing made to keep up with a high HP race car if you are driving it on the street. 5/16 is fine for a street driven hopped up engine. How many times do you actually run wide open for more than a block or 2? It won't run out of fuel.
    '
     
  23. DirtyDave
    Joined: Sep 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,528

    DirtyDave
    Member

    The stuff I bought adds 7-10 HP while being impervious to kryptonite. ;-)
     
  24. Funny you should ask....
    Plan on running steel on our '49 Ford. Got a new poly tank after we discovered the old tank was like swiss cheese. Car sat for 6+ years with gas in the tank!

    I'll take the old line out this week and have our pals at NAPA bend up new ones.
     
  25. OLDSMAN
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,422

    OLDSMAN
    BANNED

    Use steel tubing. You can but in 25ft rolls at most parts houses. This stuff bends fairly easily too. That is what I always use.
     

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