larry k...if we all thought that way i guess we shouldnt do any thing...its called learning through asking and hands on doing...my spi epoxy primer should be here by saturday the total for 2 sprayable gallons was $170..i will add this to my list of never done stuff like my welding i did and body work i did and soon to be door panel work i have never have done before...oh yeah not to mention the whole dis***emble of my front clip and and redo of my suspension and put back together...yep...
Dude that is Awefrikinsome foot using a hf gun and a small compressor. Thanks for posting that. And being a single stage on top of that...nice work.
From the SPI band wagon... This is 2 coats SPI SS Black mixed 50/50 with SPI Universal CC over 1 coat SS straight x 2 over SPI epoxy no 2k... epoxy, SS, SS/CC, cut to 2000 then buffed to the machine glaze step... (still have halos to remove) Shot with the dreaded purple gun (the $40 one). This was my first rodeo... I researched for months looking for the best quality at the best price and couldn't beat SPI. The tech support IS the best I've ever encountered ANYWHERE!
I used about 3 gals of epoxy I believe. One 2pack gallon kit and 2 quarts A and B 1 gal of SS + 1qt activator 1.25 gals of Universal Clear + activator I'm on my second gal of reducer and wax and grease remover but just started them. I went this route cause I could get things stripped and in water proof primer then when I was ready did the body work on top. If it was longer than a week (like four months in some cases) I just scuff the epoxy with 80 grit . After body work and any filler I laid down three more coats of epoxy, let it cure good and started blocking. No need for extra guide coats (more $ on the floor) because the shine of the epoxy works great to show whats still low. I would suggest two different colors of epoxy though. First coat then shows up before you sand through to the metal and saves a few steps sometimes. Here's a link to the prices and unless you have a SPI vendor in your town they ship free to your door. So what you see is what you pay...http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing%20Info.htm
I just switched over to SPI and hear is my take on it.I like the epoxy primer fine but there is a 30 minute induction time on it which DP 90 doesn't. The price is right and they have free shipping that is fast and they are very helpful. Their 2K primer is awesome. Dries in 30 minute and sands very easy. Liked this 10 times better that PPGs 2K primer. I have not tried their clear yet but I am planning on switching. I alsot ried their water bourne wax and grease remover but decided I like solvent based better. SPI also has a solvent based wax an grease remover but I tried the water based on their recommendations. Also the black epoxy has UV in it for the guys leaving their car primer which is a plus.
Nice Frankie...good to see others out there that dont have this weeellll if your not a pro dont even talk or even think of doing what i can do cuz im a professional and did i mention you cant ever do...so dont try it...dont..hahahaha...i guess we are rebels...or whipper snappers...:0
I also used the SPI urethane reducer in some Omni Base Coat also. What SPI is trying to do is make a quality product for a better price. I personally think they are doing just that. Usually in paint products you get what you pay for and it all comes down to what it is you are trying to achieve with your project. I usually like to use something I can get that day at the paint store incase I run out but SPI has made it so easy to order and gets it here quick that I keep reordering from them.
67Imp.Wagon..agreed ..thats what i learned..plus the piont about the UV is nice because mine might just be in black primer for awhile..who knows i might keep it that way
what? your not a pro you shouldnt be able to do that...waa waaa waaa..good job bud..theres still hope for us
Too many people raving about the SPI product, so.. I use SPI products (Epoxy, Eurethane, Clear). Im wondering if the test using acetone on a rag to wipe after it dries is truly a way to accurately test the quality of an epoxy primer?
Hi Avanti, I'm curious, why did you choose to mix the SPI SS Black with Clear coat as your finish coats in lieu of simply using the SS "straight up" and the color sanding/buffing? I've heard the SS straight up buffs up to be nicer than BC/CC and it's way easier to repair when you get fine scratches. Thanks in advance for your reply!
It's a common practice to to mix CC with SS on the last couple of coats. It gives it a deep finish with beautiful luster. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Does the mixing of SS and CC on the late couple of coats really make that much difference? Seems counter intuitive to me... Black is the color we want to see, but we're mixing it with CC.... the SS itself has gloss on it's own. Sorry if I'm being dense.
Not at all, but I am hoping you are not seeing the cc any how. People have been mixing cc with SS for ever. Some do it some don't, you pick. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I've used a bunch of eastwood epoxy primer on my suspension parts and engine compartment. I sprayed 2 coats, let it flash and sprayed single stage satin black over it. Its been holding up great and is easy to spray
I HAD a question for Barry the owner of SPI ON A SUNDAY MORNING he answered the phone and answered my question. HOWS THAT FOR CUSTOMER SERVICE!
Pretty sure that everyone involved in this 3 year old thread has already moved onto bigger n better things.
Ha I just found it and read it. Still good stuff here in 2017. But damn it highlander's link doesn't work And he never mentioned that product.
It’s Oct 2017. Since I added to this post I’ve sprayed over 10 gallons of SPI Epoxy a****st other brands in between. I still swear on SPI and it lays much smoother and smells great! Lol That Eastwood **** smells horrible oily like smell and is gummy as hell it it slightly dries making it PITA to clean the guns.
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