Easy way to remove broken flathead head-studs?

After removing heads from a 59BA which was in florida for a while so it was pretty bad on the outside, I ran into the broken stud in block problem.

these babies were really stuck and one is broken flush with the block, so an EZ out is out of the question and would be impossible to drill out. I used heat, and tons of PB blaster, and still broke 2 different ratchets. I could not get the nuts only to come off, usually the whole stud wanted to finally creep out but there was so much resistance that it literally screeched and made tons of friction heat. I'm in excellent shape running 6 miles a day and was really putting my whole body into each one, thus probably twisting the studs too much on one side and 3 broke.

I found this method on Red's Headers website, has anyone tried it? It's a precise way that does not require welding. You make two sleeves for drilling through the heads as a guide, and then tap it out.

Even though it eleminates welding, you need a lathe to make the sleeves, so I was wondering is this worth it or would it be cheaper to just pay the guy who is gonna magnaflux and hot tank the block do it? (since the minimum shop rate for making the two sleeves would probably exceep 35 dollars, right?

http://www.reds-headers.com/html/red_s_engine_talk_9.html

 

go to.. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm

Removing broken head studs.. requires welding though..

 

thanks for the link, but if I don't want to pay a minimum shop rate for something do you think I can afford a Tig Welder? That method you linked is excellent but you need precise heat control which only comes from a Tig.


thanks for the link though.

 

If you have someone in your area that does EDM process removal, you might want to try that. I had 4 broken ones on mine and fought with drilling out three of them and broke off the drill bit on the last one. Took it to a EDM specialist near me and they burned it out. This works so well it doesn't even hurt the threads. Wish I had done all of them this way. It cost $70, but probably wouldn't have been a whole lot extra to do more once it was set up.

Doc

 

the three that you drilled out, how did you center them up before drilling? did you use the head on as a guide and make sleeves?

or did you just center punch the broken stud by eye sight?

thanks for your advice/input

 

I've done the same method with a MIG and a TIG. Yes, TIG works better, but I've removed broken head bolts doing the same process with a MIG. Give it a try.

 

That's a new one on me about welding the washer on; makes sense though. But I'll vouch for the KROIL. I used to spend my own $ on it no matter what the shop I was in had in stock.

Kroil got the wishbone bolts out of the axle I got from Orcas Tow; he'll vouch for 'em being in tight.

-bill

 

what is KROIL?

 

A really good penetrating oil. I've worked in shops w/ PB and LPS products which are pretty good, but I like kroil better.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

-bill

 

thanks, i found out about it.

I'll update you guys on the adventure!!!