Here's a nice one right out of the barn... what looks to be a mid 60s chop on a BSA A10, with a plunger frame. Only 6 hrs left. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6703&item=2431464502 <img src=http://ebay0.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_b9bf63f4cf1e054f9bb0804b6cbc4fe1/i-3_B.JPG></img>
I'd say that's a good price if it stays somewhere between $1500-2000. Especially if it's in good running order like they say it is. I normally don't like the plunger-style frame, but it looks good on that bike. Clean it up and detail it and you've got a nice chop.
That thing is cool as ****! I'd ride just the way it is, it has a real nice mid 60's thing goin on. -Jesse
Needs more billet, a 14" stretch tank and frame, long stupid low handle bars, some diamond plate, steel rod spider webs all over, a tank shaped like a school bus, with a hydraulically controlled stop sign that folds out, flashing plug wires, 15" wide back tire and one off billet wheels with iron crosses, webs, fireman logos and samurai swords. Oh wait, I'd ride it AS ****ing IS!
not trying to piss in anybody wheaties, but let me point out a few things about that bike, and in general when shopping for a bike. not saying theres anything wrong with the bike... molded frame. yuck. molding is fine, but that is 30 year old molding, hiding 30+ year old welds and god knows what. including the serial numbers, which if it WAS hot, should be cooled down after 3 decades, but you'll end up grinding off all that bondo and doing it over, unless you like riding on something you are not sure of...remember "period" means 70's welding, by 70's bikers! i dunno about that plunger frame. i question if that one is even set up to have any travel? lot o monkey motion for the little suspension you get even if it does work. notice how short the rear frame section is, another 2 inches will give you the room you need for the seat, notice the springs on the fender? and always ask yourself, why hasn't this bike been touched in a couple decades?
The Jalopy Journal
