Features Econoline Madness Who's got one?

If anybody has seen this one let me know. Last seen in the Buffalo, N.Y. area. 200 cid, Crane Solid Cam, Clifford Research Headers, Holly 500cfm Carb.

 

How I got to California

 

Either make a drop from tubing and find the most easily sourced mount (cheap, easy) or track down a donor and restore the original setup (probably more time and effort). You don't mention what your plans are. If you are restoring to stock, the second is preferable. If you are hot rodding it (this is the HAMB!), the first may be the only way to stuff your drivetrain in, since a 62 only had the small straight six.
https://www.blueovaltrucks.com/ford_articles/ford-econoline-truck-history-specs-1961-1967/

I have a bunch of A100s but it's the same basic setup. I have not done the axle under to axle over swap. Everyone who has done it and talked about it on the forums I've read has said that this causes issues with the steering. Search here and all over the web for "bumpsteer". Picture the arc of the drag link as the suspension moves from full compression to full droop. Think 2 o'clock to 4 o'clock looking at it from the left side. You want as little forward to rear change as possible. That's why they positioned the components where they did. When doing the swap, the pivot end on the frame (steering box) does not change. The pivot that 'sweeps' on the spindle end moves up a huge amount when the axle is swapped. That will change the arc to noon to 3 o'clock. This means a lot more forward to rear change. You can't lower the attachment point because it would make the drag link pass through the axle. You could move the steering box up the same amount to compensate. This would require building a mount at or above the current floor that was as strong or better than the frame rail, a clearance slot for the drag link and covering all this with a new floor.
Her is a line drawing that is NOT quite right for the econo. It has the box in front (right) and the tie rod behind (right), but he box on the right side and the link forward of the kingpin (wrong).
Crawl under yours and visualize what I'm talking about.
You can also look at the link in the previous answer to see a cutaway drawing of the suspension, but the steering isn't very clear.


Notch in the rear depends on how much clearance you have, how much weight you end up supporting and the spring compression. Empty with new 3/4 ton springs will probably be fine for clearance but too stiff. Worn old 1/2 ton springs with a lot of weight will need notches. There isn't a one size fits all answer.

 

I've always loved this build style...

 

Any Econoline guys still on the HAMB?
I'm working on a '61 window van and looking for parts/info