edelbrock idle mixture screw gone wacky?

I have a 600 cfm edelbrock w/ electric choke. I tried to tune the idle
fuel/air mixture screws on the front. I started with the p***enger side
screw. I turned it in until it started to "stumble", and then backed it
off about 2 turns. I then tried the driver's side screw. It did the reverse!
Yes, reverse!! As I turned it in(clockwise), the engine speed increased!
When I backed off, the engine speed decreased!! Thanks for any info.

p.s. I haven't been drinking.

 

try to spray some carb cleaner it it while running.then reinstall needle.sounds like **** in it

 

Yes, I agree sounds like dirt. Lippy

 

spray in into the needle opening not the top of the carb...the preasure from the little nozle woll blow out the ****

 

I think they're supposed to be turned out 1 and a half turns.

 

I have been having trouble with mine too. I turn both of them all the way closed and it keeps running, just as if nothing happened. I checked the float settings and they are correct. I checked the fuel pressure and it is 5 psi. Everything seems to be OK. When it is idling, it wants to load up and die if I don't rev it up.

 

Mine, a 750 and an 800 are both pretty sensitive, I run both at 1 1/2 out like Leaky Pipes said, then turn one in until the rpm just drops, then go back out 1/2 turn from there. I do that on both sides and try to keep them as even as possible. If I go out a half turn further it will actually "rich roll" and drop the rpm. Both of mine like just barely a smige less than 1 1/2 turns out, about halfway between 1 1/2 and 1 1/4. The exhaust is really clean and it picks up and cruises just right.

If you get one side too far out of balance of the other you can get all kinds of weird things happening. Seat the screws lightly at 1 1/2 out and go from there. Dirt in the idle air bleeds can cause trouble. They are those two little tubes that come up out of the top of the carb top on each side. Take a small drinking straw and blow through both of them, it will bubble out of the main booster a little, but keep doing it until it blows freely on both sides. You can also work your finger or a small piece if card board in and block the main booster feeds so it just blows the idle and off idle transition circuit out. They can pick up dirt from the gas and the way the emulsion circuit is it can lodge in a p***age if it sits awhile. You can also take the idle screws out and blow the main idle p***age out to clear it. I set my floats to betweeen 5/16 -3/8" inch. A 5/16" drill bit loosely fits, and a 3/8 "just lifts the float. I know they say 7/16", but it has worked for me for years. Also, the accellerator pump. Back the curb idle screw out (counting the turns) until it no longet touches the accelerator pump tang. Bend the pump link until you have 13/32" hieght from the carb top to the top of the pump plunger. The turn the curb idle screw back in the number of turns you had it at. No matter which hole you put the link in, adjust the link with the previous method. This makes sure you always have fuel in the pump well beccause the float level is higher than then the pump well and keeps it full. If the plunger is too high it will sip air and you will get a stumble.

Also look for any vacuum leaks, they can cause screwy things too. Hope this helps.

 

like I said Ive had this happen many times before....pull the little needle out and stick that little red tube from start fluid into the hole where the needle was.bring the throtttle up a bit and blast the hell outa the seat area,do this a couple of times both sides....REMOVE ONLY ONE NEEDLE AT A TIME!!!! this has always worked for me..............